1995 Accord EX No Start, Fuel Pump Not Working
I just put a fuel pump in my '95 Accord, thinking it would fix my problem, but apparently not. The car would not start because the fuel pump was not engaging. After replacing the main relay with a known good relay and checking for voltage at the fuel pump, I had determined that the fuel pump is dead. I replaced the pump with a new eBay fuel pump, and it still doesn't work. I was able to get the car running with some starter fluid, so I know it's getting spark and when the starter wants to engage, it cranks over no problem.
I checked over the main fuse box and all fuses appear to be good. I replaced the battery fuse with the proper 100 amp fuse after discovering that the fuse in there was a 50 amp. I can't seem to find the main fuse box in the driver's foot well for some reason.
I did not check voltage again today, but the last time I checked voltage not too long ago (nothing has changed since then) I was getting 12 volts at the connector.
What else could possibly prevent the fuel pump from working? Are there any ground wires that I should check?
I checked over the main fuse box and all fuses appear to be good. I replaced the battery fuse with the proper 100 amp fuse after discovering that the fuse in there was a 50 amp. I can't seem to find the main fuse box in the driver's foot well for some reason.
I did not check voltage again today, but the last time I checked voltage not too long ago (nothing has changed since then) I was getting 12 volts at the connector.
What else could possibly prevent the fuel pump from working? Are there any ground wires that I should check?
I had somewhat the same issue with a '95 Accord.
My problem was inside the connector of the fuel-pump wires.
Rust/corrosion caused two of the connectors to snap off. So cutting the cables and patching them together worked like a charm.
It's just a wild, weak shot in the dark here, as I'm certain you have had to unplug that connector to insert your new fuel-pump. However, one might
never know if you noticed the broken/rusted connectors or not.
Best of luck, Sir!
My problem was inside the connector of the fuel-pump wires.
Rust/corrosion caused two of the connectors to snap off. So cutting the cables and patching them together worked like a charm.
It's just a wild, weak shot in the dark here, as I'm certain you have had to unplug that connector to insert your new fuel-pump. However, one might
never know if you noticed the broken/rusted connectors or not.
Best of luck, Sir!
Interesting... I'll take a look at it. The wires are definitely frayed at one point (the coating at least), but I don't think it's that big of an issue. Clearly not since I'm getting voltage.
Did you check your ignition switch for wear?
The switch may work fine with low load, but with a high load it may cause the contacts to heat up and cause an open in the circuit.
Any damage to the wiring harness or grounds will cause issues.
Have you verified voltage/voltage drop when starting the car?
I recently had a bad battery that seemed 'fine' but under a high load(starter) the voltage would massively drop causing loss of all other electrical components. Even though the starter sounded strong.
The switch may work fine with low load, but with a high load it may cause the contacts to heat up and cause an open in the circuit.
Any damage to the wiring harness or grounds will cause issues.
Have you verified voltage/voltage drop when starting the car?
I recently had a bad battery that seemed 'fine' but under a high load(starter) the voltage would massively drop causing loss of all other electrical components. Even though the starter sounded strong.
Did you check your ignition switch for wear?
The switch may work fine with low load, but with a high load it may cause the contacts to heat up and cause an open in the circuit.
Any damage to the wiring harness or grounds will cause issues.
Have you verified voltage/voltage drop when starting the car?
I recently had a bad battery that seemed 'fine' but under a high load(starter) the voltage would massively drop causing loss of all other electrical components. Even though the starter sounded strong.
The switch may work fine with low load, but with a high load it may cause the contacts to heat up and cause an open in the circuit.
Any damage to the wiring harness or grounds will cause issues.
Have you verified voltage/voltage drop when starting the car?
I recently had a bad battery that seemed 'fine' but under a high load(starter) the voltage would massively drop causing loss of all other electrical components. Even though the starter sounded strong.
I have not tested voltage while starting the car. I will have to check that out, because the starter does not always work. I know the starter is probably bad, because you have to hit it a couple times to get it to crank. I just want to wait until I get the fuel delivery issue figured out before I throw in a starter. The battery isn't the best (had to charge it a few times), but it seems to have been holding up through our trying to get the car running.
Got it running! Turns out after testing voltage and checking grounds and the condition of the wires, the connector on the pump itself wasn't pushed down far enough. Hooked it back up and the car fired right up.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Thank you for keeping us updated, even if it's with great success. Some people tend to just leave the thread hangin' and when the same thing happens to someone else, they Google and find this very thread, and they will see your solution! :D
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That's why I like to keep threads up to date! I am usually on the helping side of these threads over on the Volvo forums, and it's a little annoying when you're left hanging. Like you said, I like leaving my old questions as future resources for other owners who may have the same problem.
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