AC system open for over 4 years - what needs to be replaced?
Long story, but I'll shorten it a bit...I have a 99 Civic Si that I took to a local mechanic back in November 2011 for minor fabrication and an engine swap, turbo, etc. It was important to me that I kept my AC. This guy was extremely careless with my parts and turned out to be a crook (took my cash and stopped working on the car). All my AC lines were opened up and completely exposed for over 4 years, and when he put everything back together, he didn't replace the receiver drier, and I doubt he vacuumed the system properly. It doesn't work at all, and there's excessive load on the engine when I try to use AC. When I tested it on the highway, if I set the cruise control, it seems like the compressor clutch is engaging on and off over and over. It slows the car down when it engages. The car won't even idle properly without keeping my foot on the gas when the AC is on, but no cold air is blowing out, so I haven't been able to use it at all.
I bought a new Denso compressor and Honda receiver drier, along with a seal kit that I found on Amazon. I just went down to a local shop to get a price estimate and was told that because the system was exposed for over 4 years, the labor and extra parts might cost me over $2000. That's outrageous. He even mentioned that the expansion valve, condenser and lines might need to be replaced. His price is obviously insane, but will it be necessary to replace any of these other parts as he says, or can the system just be flushed out? What causes an expansion valve to go bad?
I bought a new Denso compressor and Honda receiver drier, along with a seal kit that I found on Amazon. I just went down to a local shop to get a price estimate and was told that because the system was exposed for over 4 years, the labor and extra parts might cost me over $2000. That's outrageous. He even mentioned that the expansion valve, condenser and lines might need to be replaced. His price is obviously insane, but will it be necessary to replace any of these other parts as he says, or can the system just be flushed out? What causes an expansion valve to go bad?
The receiver drier is installed. It's 17 years old, though. Any time you open the AC lines, that part needs to be replaced. Everything is where it should be. However, the parts weren't protected from contamination when everything was disassembled.
Refrigerant was probably added at the end of February. That's 4 years and 4 months of being empty. I had a big legal battle with this guy for a year. We settled out of court, and there was supposed to be a guarantee on his work for 90 days. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't warm enough to fully test the AC during that time. When it was slightly warm, I tested it and it didn't work. I brought the car back and he supposedly fixed a leak. That's when I tested it on the highway. It worked, but the car would "buck" when the cruise control was on.
When you say the system was opened, what do mean?
The refrigerant was recovered?
The refrigerant was recovered and all/some components were removed and the pipes and components were not plugged?
etc.
Also was the system placed under a deep vacuum for an hour or so prior to adding refrigerant? Was oil added?
The refrigerant was recovered?
The refrigerant was recovered and all/some components were removed and the pipes and components were not plugged?
etc.
Also was the system placed under a deep vacuum for an hour or so prior to adding refrigerant? Was oil added?
Ok so open to me means the lines were left off and un capped. In that case a flush of the lines are needed. That should not be as costly as they are describing.
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When you say the system was opened, what do mean?
The refrigerant was recovered?
The refrigerant was recovered and all/some components were removed and the pipes and components were not plugged?
etc.
Also was the system placed under a deep vacuum for an hour or so prior to adding refrigerant? Was oil added?
The refrigerant was recovered?
The refrigerant was recovered and all/some components were removed and the pipes and components were not plugged?
etc.
Also was the system placed under a deep vacuum for an hour or so prior to adding refrigerant? Was oil added?
This is a tough one.
If you want to be absolutely sure the A/C works for the long term, you would replace the compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, and O-rings. You would also flush the A/C pipes with an A/C flush using dry compressed air. If you can't do the latter, have an experienced, reputable A/C shop do it, as well as the recharge with refrigerant and oil.
If you want to be absolutely sure the A/C works for the long term, you would replace the compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, and O-rings. You would also flush the A/C pipes with an A/C flush using dry compressed air. If you can't do the latter, have an experienced, reputable A/C shop do it, as well as the recharge with refrigerant and oil.
Got to agree with the above^^^ if system has been opened for that long pull everything flush out the lines/hoses and cap off until ready to install, [close system], if oil was not installed the compressor is toast if it ever ran, so it needs to be replaced along with the expansion valve, if money is tight you can also try and flush out the condenser and evaporator, but new ones are probably less then $300 along with accumulator/filter from Performance Rad, 3 year warranty meets or exceeds OEM specs... Performance Radiator®
Although I would replace the accumulator/filter if I was doing the compressor, [required for warrant on a compressor], I would replace it regardless of replacing the compressor the compressor I would flush out, [pour in flush, turn compressor clockwise until flush starts coming out the discharge port, if it is clean turn discharge port down and keep turning compressor until empty, put 1/2 the oil charge, [5oz] use Ester oil it is compatible with all systems, also add 1oz of C4 refrigerant oil to the compressor, [may be available in 1oz bottle with dye at your local refrigerant supply store] , once oil is in the compressor, turn by hand again with fingers plugging the suction and discharge ports.
If you can feel suction and pressure on your fingers, it is a good bet the compressor is fine, and is worth trying before spending money you may not need to,
Once ready to install the A/C system, add the other 1/2 oil charge into the new filter, remember to keep everything caped off as much as possible, dirt/contaminants of any kind, even a spec, is A/Cs, and your] worst enemy, uncap connections and wipe with clean lint free cloth, install O ring and oil ring and fitting, [C4 oil] connect, DO NOT overtighten anything and always use a backup wrench.
Once everything is together have a shop vacuum the system, [as mentioned, at least 1 hr] and recharge the system with 23oz of R134a refrigerant. 94
Although I would replace the accumulator/filter if I was doing the compressor, [required for warrant on a compressor], I would replace it regardless of replacing the compressor the compressor I would flush out, [pour in flush, turn compressor clockwise until flush starts coming out the discharge port, if it is clean turn discharge port down and keep turning compressor until empty, put 1/2 the oil charge, [5oz] use Ester oil it is compatible with all systems, also add 1oz of C4 refrigerant oil to the compressor, [may be available in 1oz bottle with dye at your local refrigerant supply store] , once oil is in the compressor, turn by hand again with fingers plugging the suction and discharge ports.
If you can feel suction and pressure on your fingers, it is a good bet the compressor is fine, and is worth trying before spending money you may not need to,
Once ready to install the A/C system, add the other 1/2 oil charge into the new filter, remember to keep everything caped off as much as possible, dirt/contaminants of any kind, even a spec, is A/Cs, and your] worst enemy, uncap connections and wipe with clean lint free cloth, install O ring and oil ring and fitting, [C4 oil] connect, DO NOT overtighten anything and always use a backup wrench.
Once everything is together have a shop vacuum the system, [as mentioned, at least 1 hr] and recharge the system with 23oz of R134a refrigerant. 94
Thank you for the help, I appreciate it. If this is going to be a huge project, like you guys are suggesting, and considering it's the end of summer, maybe I should wait until next year? I gave the guy a 12" fan to put on my condenser, and he told me it wouldn't fit and installed a different one instead without asking me first. I haven't had the bumper off to see what he gave me, but looking through the gap in the hood release, it looks like an 8" pusher fan. That's totally inadequate. I'll see if I can get a 10-11" SPAL puller fan in there. He also welded a bracket on the condenser, so I'll have to have something similar done.
I checked the price on OEM Honda evaporators and condensers last night. It looks like the expansion valve is included in the $270 price and not sold separately?
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
Thank you for the link, fcm. How did you hear about this place and where are the parts made? For some reason it says the condenser they sell is Canadian models only. Weird...
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_20238_20338_20412_20413&product_id= 571
The evaporator and condenser is about a third of the OEM Honda price:
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_20238_20338_20412_20413&product_id= 541
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_20238_20338_20412_20413&product_id= 618
There's no way I'd be able to do all this work myself. Is it OK if I just cut off my AC belt and pull one of the fuses, so the AC doesn't get turned on during the winter? As you probably know, when you turn the front defroster, the AC automatically turns on. I don't want this to happen whether I cut off my AC belt or not. I'm sure that compressor is toast, and it's putting too much load on the engine. I don't want to cut any corners.
I might want to have a shop remove the existing Freon next year, so I can replace the evaporator myself. After watching a Youtube video someone posted, it looks like there are foam seals that degrade and need to be replaced. Either that or I'll remove the glove box and brace so there's less chance of them scratching my interior. Is it a good idea for them to flush the brand new parts?
I checked the price on OEM Honda evaporators and condensers last night. It looks like the expansion valve is included in the $270 price and not sold separately?
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
Thank you for the link, fcm. How did you hear about this place and where are the parts made? For some reason it says the condenser they sell is Canadian models only. Weird...
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_20238_20338_20412_20413&product_id= 571
The evaporator and condenser is about a third of the OEM Honda price:
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_20238_20338_20412_20413&product_id= 541
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_20238_20338_20412_20413&product_id= 618
There's no way I'd be able to do all this work myself. Is it OK if I just cut off my AC belt and pull one of the fuses, so the AC doesn't get turned on during the winter? As you probably know, when you turn the front defroster, the AC automatically turns on. I don't want this to happen whether I cut off my AC belt or not. I'm sure that compressor is toast, and it's putting too much load on the engine. I don't want to cut any corners.
I might want to have a shop remove the existing Freon next year, so I can replace the evaporator myself. After watching a Youtube video someone posted, it looks like there are foam seals that degrade and need to be replaced. Either that or I'll remove the glove box and brace so there's less chance of them scratching my interior. Is it a good idea for them to flush the brand new parts?
New parts should come plugged and clean and therefore will not require flushing. You should only need to flush the existing pipes.
You can save money by removing all components yourself after the refrigerant recovery. When you have all necessary new parts in hand, schedule a reputable, experienced A/C shop to flush the A/C pipes (and also at a later time to place system under deep vacuum and recharge with refrigerant). When they finish the flush, the pipes should be capped to reduce entry of air/moisture. ASAP, return home to install all A/C components with new O-rings and add volume of oil specified in service manual. Return ASAP to shop for scheduled evacuation, leak testing, and refrigerant recharge.
Compare prices for A/C parts and A/C oil at RockAuto as well.
You can save money by removing all components yourself after the refrigerant recovery. When you have all necessary new parts in hand, schedule a reputable, experienced A/C shop to flush the A/C pipes (and also at a later time to place system under deep vacuum and recharge with refrigerant). When they finish the flush, the pipes should be capped to reduce entry of air/moisture. ASAP, return home to install all A/C components with new O-rings and add volume of oil specified in service manual. Return ASAP to shop for scheduled evacuation, leak testing, and refrigerant recharge.
Compare prices for A/C parts and A/C oil at RockAuto as well.
New parts should come plugged and clean and therefore will not require flushing. You should only need to flush the existing pipes.
You can save money by removing all components yourself after the refrigerant recovery. When you have all necessary new parts in hand, schedule a reputable, experienced A/C shop to flush the A/C pipes (and also at a later time to place system under deep vacuum and recharge with refrigerant). When they finish the flush, the pipes should be capped to reduce entry of air/moisture. ASAP, return home to install all A/C components with new O-rings and add volume of oil specified in service manual. Return ASAP to shop for scheduled evacuation, leak testing, and refrigerant recharge.
Compare prices for A/C parts and A/C oil at RockAuto as well.
You can save money by removing all components yourself after the refrigerant recovery. When you have all necessary new parts in hand, schedule a reputable, experienced A/C shop to flush the A/C pipes (and also at a later time to place system under deep vacuum and recharge with refrigerant). When they finish the flush, the pipes should be capped to reduce entry of air/moisture. ASAP, return home to install all A/C components with new O-rings and add volume of oil specified in service manual. Return ASAP to shop for scheduled evacuation, leak testing, and refrigerant recharge.
Compare prices for A/C parts and A/C oil at RockAuto as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-.../dp/B001B78O54
I like saving money, but I don't want to take chances with lower quality parts. They do sell a Denso expansion valve. What are good name brands for condensers and evaporators?
OK, thank you. I'll have the pipes flushed next year and replace the whole system. Unless there's a hole, there's never a need to replace the pipes, is there? I checked Rock Auto and didn't see any name brands for the evaporator or condenser. It looks like the best evaporator they sell by Four Seasons has a couple of bad reviews on Amazon for leaking:
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-.../dp/B001B78O54
I like saving money, but I don't want to take chances with lower quality parts. They do sell a Denso expansion valve. What are good name brands for condensers and evaporators?
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-.../dp/B001B78O54
I like saving money, but I don't want to take chances with lower quality parts. They do sell a Denso expansion valve. What are good name brands for condensers and evaporators?
And with all this, it's actually colder now than when it was new from the factory! I think the air temp is about 28-30 degrees out of the vent with it's about 75 degrees outside. Nice! The tech who charged up the system joked about seeing reindeer and snowflakes in my car, lol.
I have a TYC brand condensor on my 96 civic coupe, been working fine for two years (when I re-did the system). I have a denso compressor, but for the expansion valve and evaporator core I went with Honda. Didn't want to have to rip that all out from behind the glove box a 2nd time, lol. The drier/receiver was from 4seasons. Oh I remember why I didn't do TYC for the evaporator is because the design was nowhere close to the Honda design. Which was odd because the condensor was an exact match to Honda. But not the evap core, maybe I got an odd part?? I don't know, but I returned it. I didn't want to take the chance and got the Honda for $250.. I just wanted to get it right and be done with it. Yeah I know I paid more.. But I'm happy with the mix of parts I have now.
And with all this, it's actually colder now than when it was new from the factory! I think the air temp is about 28-30 degrees out of the vent with it's about 75 degrees outside. Nice! The tech who charged up the system joked about seeing reindeer and snowflakes in my car, lol.
And with all this, it's actually colder now than when it was new from the factory! I think the air temp is about 28-30 degrees out of the vent with it's about 75 degrees outside. Nice! The tech who charged up the system joked about seeing reindeer and snowflakes in my car, lol.
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
That's awesome, I hope I have the same luck as you. I looked up TYC's condensers and they're black. Is yours also black? It's going to be more expensive, but I agree with you about the evaporator from Honda. Did it come with an expansion valve? It looks like it in this picture:
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
1999 Honda CIVIC COUPE|
Yeah I know everyone tries to save money but when it came to the evap core and the aftermarket were different designs than Honda, I just didn't want to take a chance. Oh and no the expansion valve is separate and it doesn't come with that, so have to order that on its own. In your picture #10 is the evap core and #11 is the expansion valve. I think I did get new o-rings (#27,26) and even the seals (#17,16) for the evap case.. the foam seals. Just wanted it to be new all over again. So far 2 years later, working great. I do hope you have the same results as me!!
Let us know what happens.
Sorry, no insult intended. I was trying to be amusing. If any of my fans were making a whining noise, they would immediately get retired.
ahhh!! I was laughing, taking it to mean both things!
Yeah just saving the money for now to replace the fan even though aftermarket they're only like $46-50. It whines as it spins down, while running it's quiet. Should've clarified that. But soon it'll get retired
Yeah just saving the money for now to replace the fan even though aftermarket they're only like $46-50. It whines as it spins down, while running it's quiet. Should've clarified that. But soon it'll get retired
yep, my TYC condenser is black and have had no problem at all with it removing the heat from the a/c system. I re-used my cooling fan, but being 20 years old I might replace it next year to be safe. Funny how it's 20 years old and working, but it does make a whine-noise which is why I was thinking of replacing it.
Yeah I know everyone tries to save money but when it came to the evap core and the aftermarket were different designs than Honda, I just didn't want to take a chance. Oh and no the expansion valve is separate and it doesn't come with that, so have to order that on its own. In your picture #10 is the evap core and #11 is the expansion valve. I think I did get new o-rings (#27,26) and even the seals (#17,16) for the evap case.. the foam seals. Just wanted it to be new all over again. So far 2 years later, working great. I do hope you have the same results as me!!
Let us know what happens.
Yeah I know everyone tries to save money but when it came to the evap core and the aftermarket were different designs than Honda, I just didn't want to take a chance. Oh and no the expansion valve is separate and it doesn't come with that, so have to order that on its own. In your picture #10 is the evap core and #11 is the expansion valve. I think I did get new o-rings (#27,26) and even the seals (#17,16) for the evap case.. the foam seals. Just wanted it to be new all over again. So far 2 years later, working great. I do hope you have the same results as me!!
Let us know what happens.Thread
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crazyguy
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Aug 10, 2007 06:45 AM



