after a few months I have the free time to take another look at my car which is 92 hatchback with D16y8 has z6 intake manifold and p28 ecu.. car starts idles fine and smooth then dies.. I have tools on way to test fuel pressure but I decided to take a look at the timing marks not sure where the red or white mark on crank pulley are suppose to line up

 

You can't use the crank pulley timing mark without the lower timing belt cover installed.

For the cam, use the timing marks on the rear side of the pulley to score alignment with the top of the head.

 

lower timing cover didn't come with car... would find a timing light to check and confirm ignition timing but cant get it to run long enough

 

Get a lower timing belt cover from a junk yard.

 

are all sohc lower timing covers the same or does it have to be y8 specific? its kinda rare picking for Hondas in junkyards around here

 

no

 

You can check your mechanical timing without the lower cover but not the ignition timing (requires engine running to operating temperature and the lower timing belt cover).

The following page is for both the D16Y7 and the D16Y8 motors for the mechanical timing marks. You will have to pull the crank pulley off to see the crank gear and it's alignment.



You can then use OEM Honda parts sites like hondapartsnow.com to compare the lower timing covers between the two 6th gen engines (D16Y7 and D16Y8). I know the D16Y7 is a much more common engine in the yards.

As can be seen below, the lower timing belt cover is the same between the D16Y7 and the D16Y8 engine (DX vs EX). I verified by looking also at the cylinder head on each car and noted the DX is non VTEC while the EX was the SOHC VTEC motor:



You can go grab yourself the lower timing cover from any 96-00 CX/DX/LX from the yards.

Cheers.

 

You can take the #1 spark plug out and probe the top of the piston to set the crank to TDC, and at least get the cam right. But you really must have a cover in case a stone from the road or anything jumps into the timing belt while it is running that would blow the engine.

 

Got a fuel pressure gauge today.. On prime makes 110 psi and almost 114psi when running until it dies

 

Isn't it reading 13.8 PSI (=low fuel pressure) on the gauge in the picture? You also need a fuel gauge that reads higher pressure.

And your mechanical timing may be off, as stated earlier.

 

^^^This concerning the fuel pressure gauge you have. You need a fuel injection pressure tester, what you have is for the old carb based engines as they only needed 12-15 PSI pressure unlike fuel injected motors.

Please follow RonJ's hints and provide feedback on them to help you isolate your issue.

 

Yes I know now sorry for the dyslexia I ran and got a pump car starts and runs.. Idles still fluctuates a very small amount after small revs