90 Integra b20b start problem
I swapped a JDM b20b in my obd0 da, everything is plugged in correctly, engines at tdc etc
I've narrowed it down to the distributor because im getting fuel and the car starts for second(or less) then dies. Once in awhile when im moving the distributor I get shocked and my ecu throws code 8(tdc) would that code be correlated to the distributors tdc?
The distributor is obd2 that came with the engine and I have the correct jumper harness for it. Also my coils have barely been used, practically new. Any help would be appreciated.
I've narrowed it down to the distributor because im getting fuel and the car starts for second(or less) then dies. Once in awhile when im moving the distributor I get shocked and my ecu throws code 8(tdc) would that code be correlated to the distributors tdc?
The distributor is obd2 that came with the engine and I have the correct jumper harness for it. Also my coils have barely been used, practically new. Any help would be appreciated.
If your getting a shock off the distributor, [when moving it] my guess is the distributor is loosing ground and grounding through you.
Pull the cap, rotor and dust cap and insure all wiring is properly connected to the coil and igniter and there are no shorts, [wiring is in good shape].
Yes the TDC code is related to the TDC sensor in the distributor, check sensor for cracks.
Inspect distributor cap for carbon arcing. 94
Pull the cap, rotor and dust cap and insure all wiring is properly connected to the coil and igniter and there are no shorts, [wiring is in good shape].
Yes the TDC code is related to the TDC sensor in the distributor, check sensor for cracks.
Inspect distributor cap for carbon arcing. 94
So I forgot that when I bought the engine it came with the distributor which had a cracked cap so I figured it must have damaged the distributor internally. I brought it back and they gave me another one, I installed it and no more Shocks. I also checked for spark and all were fine. Now It still won't start though
It has good fuel pressure and spark but still nothing. So I took out the spark plugs and they seem really dry, I would've thought it would be drowning because of how much I tried to start it. Is it possible to have good fuel pressure but gas not entering the engine? Hence causing a no start.
It has good fuel pressure and spark but still nothing. So I took out the spark plugs and they seem really dry, I would've thought it would be drowning because of how much I tried to start it. Is it possible to have good fuel pressure but gas not entering the engine? Hence causing a no start.
"Is it possible to have good fuel pressure but gas not entering the engine? Hence causing a no start." In a word, yes.
It would then be an injector problem, either no power to the injectors, [supplied by the PGM-FI Main Relay] or no ground pulse to the injectors, [supplied by the ECU] or the injectors themselves or a connection problem to the injectors.
Test for power to the injectors, [lead that is the same color at each injector], test for ground pulse to the injector, [other lead to the injector| you can use an LED type 12V test light to test for power and ground to the injectors.
A quick test is to try and start the engine then immediately remove the spark plugs and see if they are "wet" with gas.
At this point I would also do a compression test on the engine, it is an older engine and constant start tries, [without starting and injectors working] can "flush" the cylinder walls and drop compression significantly, if that is the case drop in a table spoon, or so, of oil and crank the engine, spark plugs out, distributor unplugged, [no spark] and WOT just like doing a compression test, that will re- oil the cylinder walls. 94
It would then be an injector problem, either no power to the injectors, [supplied by the PGM-FI Main Relay] or no ground pulse to the injectors, [supplied by the ECU] or the injectors themselves or a connection problem to the injectors.
Test for power to the injectors, [lead that is the same color at each injector], test for ground pulse to the injector, [other lead to the injector| you can use an LED type 12V test light to test for power and ground to the injectors.
A quick test is to try and start the engine then immediately remove the spark plugs and see if they are "wet" with gas.
At this point I would also do a compression test on the engine, it is an older engine and constant start tries, [without starting and injectors working] can "flush" the cylinder walls and drop compression significantly, if that is the case drop in a table spoon, or so, of oil and crank the engine, spark plugs out, distributor unplugged, [no spark] and WOT just like doing a compression test, that will re- oil the cylinder walls. 94
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