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am currently doing some testing on my eg drag setup I was looking some tuning pointers to try a get a little more from my setup
engine.
b16b block and head
b16b 96cams
pro xp valve springs
Fearra comp 1mm oversize valves
Wire ring head
cp 83mm pistons
b18c4 crank
darton sleeved
eldebrook intake manifold
egale rods
id1000cc injectors
garrett gt3582r top mounted turbo .63 hot side
tial v60 wastegate
running 1.3bar
on 97octane
makes 442whp @ 8300rpm
link g4 storm black ecu
standard s9b box
traction bar
spec stage 5 clutch
dc2 type r flywheel
hsd mono coilovers
mt 24.5 x 8 x 15 slicks 12.71@112mph
Toyo r888 gg 205/45/17 best time so far is 12.69@127mph
on an old airfield. Not proper drag prep surface
any ideas on how to improve on this current setup am all ears
Last edited by Former User; Aug 9, 2016 at 07:39 AM.
for me, i knocked a bunch of time off by switching to a twin disc. i could not shift fast with a comp stage 5 it just would not go into gear quickly. idk if your having that issue with a single disc but just thought id mention it
Do you run Boost By Gear ?
Running our type of cars on Airfields really is tricky. My car lights the 24.5x8 slicks up in both first and second gear on this type of surface even when turned down to 12 psi (~400whp).
The trick is to reduce boost as much as possible in 1st gear and then ramp it up against either gear or speed (speed is preferable as it rules out wheelspin). The other way is to chuck more power at it in the higher gears once you have traction.
Is your setup only tuned to 1.3 bar ? Your motor has all the right bits so there's definitely room to up it there also. Also with CTR cams and a GT35R, I'd imagine your power curve should still be climbing at 8300 rpm ? If you can, rev it out further, you'll see the speeds climb (I rev my 84 x 89 setup to 9200 without any issues on Eagle rods)
Do you run Boost By Gear ?
Running our type of cars on Airfields really is tricky. My car lights the 24.5x8 slicks up in both first and second gear on this type of surface even when turned down to 12 psi (~400whp).
The trick is to reduce boost as much as possible in 1st gear and then ramp it up against either gear or speed (speed is preferable as it rules out wheelspin). The other way is to chuck more power at it in the higher gears once you have traction.
Is your setup only tuned to 1.3 bar ? Your motor has all the right bits so there's definitely room to up it there also. Also with CTR cams and a GT35R, I'd imagine your power curve should still be climbing at 8300 rpm ? If you can, rev it out further, you'll see the speeds climb (I rev my 84 x 89 setup to 9200 without any issues on Eagle rods)
thanks for the info we have been playing with wheel speed sensor based boost control so the ecu is regularly adjusting boost base on the slip difference between front on rear wheels.
i was having issues with flat Shift on Sunday. Pulled in a 12.71@127mph into 30mph head wind
we have the limit set at 8800 fuel runs out of puff at 8300 and stops making power
were currently process of changing to sonoco 260gt plus
easy to get here than vp.
i will get my Turner to set a map with boost by gear to see how we go at that.
pritty much with current settings as soon as I come off the launch control am just spinning first and second.
my power figures come from a dyno pack hub dyno at tdp.ie Wicklow ireland
thanks for the info we have been playing with wheel speed sensor based boost control so the ecu is regularly adjusting boost base on the slip difference between front on rear wheels.
i was having issues with flat Shift on Sunday. Pulled in a 12.71@127mph into 30mph head wind
we have the limit set at 8800 fuel runs out of puff at 8300 and stops making power
were currently process of changing to sonoco 260gt plus
easy to get here than vp.
i will get my Turner to set a map with boost by gear to see how we go at that.
pritty much with current settings as soon as I come off the launch control am just spinning first and second.
my power figures come from a dyno pack hub dyno at tdp.ie Wicklow ireland
First thing definitely get the fuel issue sorted. 112 mph trap is very low for that power level. Do you have Shell fuels easily accessible in your area? I'm currently running their product called URT. It's gasoline and inexpensive but makes crazy power safe and is great to tune with. All the potential of straight C16 power wise with half the cost and easier to tune lambda.
Aside from that, if your current single disc clutch still has a lot of life, maybe keep that and go with a lighter flywheel setup. Not crazy light like a 6, but maybe a 9-10. If you want the ultimate in shift-ability (haha) look into dog box/synchro-less gear stack setup. Being that this is a drag car and not a street car I would strongly reccomend it as it makes rowing the gears down the strip SO very much easier, and you do not need to disengage the clutch (depress the pedal) for each shift, just bang the gears. I have never gone back to a synchronized gearbox in any of my drag builds ever since my first dog box.
First thing definitely get the fuel issue sorted. 112 mph trap is very low for that power level. Do you have Shell fuels easily accessible in your area? I'm currently running their product called URT. It's gasoline and inexpensive but makes crazy power safe and is great to tune with. All the potential of straight C16 power wise with half the cost and easier to tune lambda.
Aside from that, if your current single disc clutch still has a lot of life, maybe keep that and go with a lighter flywheel setup. Not crazy light like a 6, but maybe a 9-10. If you want the ultimate in shift-ability (haha) look into dog box/synchro-less gear stack setup. Being that this is a drag car and not a street car I would strongly reccomend it as it makes rowing the gears down the strip SO very much easier, and you do not need to disengage the clutch (depress the pedal) for each shift, just bang the gears. I have never gone back to a synchronized gearbox in any of my drag builds ever since my first dog box.
In addition to that, my last boosted hatch was also an EG, a 95 CX. it weighed 2253 with fuel and no driver and had ~450whp/330wtq
(B20V on a gtx3076r)
And my best time with that setup on a DOT drag radial was 12.1x @ 125-127 and on Hoosier slicks/skinnies ran 11.80s at 123-124. 60's were around 1.8x. The car had custom traction bars, Ground Control coil overs, Koni race shocks, a 6pt cage and super lightweight wheels (like under 10lbs each)
I consider myself a pretty good driver at the track, tho not professional so I think there may have been a few tenths left in her but for the most part I was getting all she had. Our track is around 300ft DA and I usually prefer to run when the ambient temp is 80 or below whenever possible. Just to give you an idea of what a similar car did.