So my mini swap wagon wont start up at the moment.
3 months ago i did the head swap but my mechanical timing was off, which resulted in the ignition timing being really off, which made it have no power when i drove it down the street. Then i let the car sit for 3 months, finally got around to retiming it, this time the crank gear is lined with oil pump arrow, and the camshaft mark is at the 7 o clock mark on the upper timing cover. When i tried to start it yesterday, it took several cranks and whenit fired up, it only idled to like 500, then died. Did that a few times, then it had like a huge misfire, just heard like a big POP and smelled alot like fuel...
So im wondering if my distributor could be the cause of this? Like too much fuel not enough spark?

 

What did you set the ignition timing to? What ECU are you using?

 

I had the dizzy set in the middle, using a p28. The issue, I think, that I have is that the rocker arm assembly is binding on the valves? As I was rotating the crank to check valve clearance, I noticed some valves wouldn't let me adjust them. I've tried removing the rockers and replacing them, but when I torque them to 14ft lbs, some valves get really tight and I can't fit the feeler gauge. I'm tightening them in the correct sequence, just not sure why they keep binding...

 

Sounds like you are not rotating the cam to set the lash on the respective valves.
very odd.

 

What should i try to do to fix this issue?

 

If "4drEF" is correct you can start by adjusting the valves properly. Is he correct? Did you adjust all the valves without rotating the camshaft?

EDIT: I just reread your post, I'd agree sounds like you're not adjusting the respective valves after rotating the crank (by default cam rotates too unless you took the belt off). Just an FYI you technically don't need to follow the exact sequence from the manual if you apply a little common sense. The way I do it is I watch one pair of valves, be it intake or exhaust, as the camshaft rotates and wait until the pair are fully open. By default the remaining 3 pairs have to be closed so I adjust those all at once. This is of course while only rotating the proper direction. After that, continue to rotate as necessary to adjust the original pair of valves and repeat for opposite valves depending on which side you started with.

 

Pick up a manual and read the procedure on valve adjustment it doesn't sound like you are doing it right from your wording.

 

I adjust cyl1 valves at TDC then i rotate the cam 90 degrees, then that opens cyl3, then another 90 degrees opens cyl4 then another 90 and it opens cyl2, correct? And i check to make sure theyre open by wiggling the rockers.

Wellan example of my problem is at tdc, the rockers from cylinder 1 dont wiggle, and i rotate the camshaft slowly to see when the rockers will loosen up, but they dont. Even after i rotate a full revolution and they never loosen.

 

If that's the case back off the adjusting screw until you get some clearance. If that's really happening there's a good chance that those particular cylinders weren't making a complete seal resulting in low/no compression.

 

I assume you have the proper bent style feeler gauges for this rather than that straight ones.
I suggest you back off all the nuts on every tappet and do a full valve adjustment.

Look on the cam lobe for the valve you want to adjust.
The NOSE should be pointed away from the tappet so that the HEEL is facing the tappet.
Adjust and tighten the nut finger tight and move on to the next valve.
Rotate the cam as necessary so the heel faces the tappet you are adjusting.
So on and so on.
When you have them all set and finger tight, rotate the crank several times so the valves work and settle.
Then go around and verify the lash on all the valves to make sure they are all good.
For the vales that measure correctly, tighten down the locking nuts to spec.
On valves that require further adjustment after rotation, finger tighten and rotate the crank a few times again.




Another thought, (if the above doesn't work to set your lash clearances) it is possible that somebody took the Z6 head and set it on a table, floor, etc with the valves facing downward.
The weight of the head sitting on top of open valves could have bent the valves.
They could now be stuck and need to be replaced.