So I replaced my head gasket almost a month ago. Well, I kept hearing a high pitch noise. I thought it was just the crank pulley put on too tight. Well, last night I went out to the car and tried to start it... I cranked... Nothing. But as soon as I let off it started. I drive off and it acted like there wasn't any gas for a minute. I was on the pedal but it wasn't going anywhere. I let off and it took off.... Well I replaced my PCV because it was starting to get clogged. The noise is gone now... but now the car cranks but won't start until I stop cranking. Sometimes it'll start... Sometimes it will act like its going to but won't. I also have a code 9. I don't know if any of these are related or not... Please help! It'll be much appreciated!

 

OBD-1 ECU Codes

 

You really can't put the crank pulley on too tight. Lots of people put them too loose and have them come off.

Pull the brake handle up and watch the "brake" light on the dash. It should stay on while you are cranking. It is connected to the same circuit that runs the ignition. If it goes out while cranking the ignition switch is probably bad.

Code 9 means the ECU isn't getting one of the signals it expects from the distributor. Check the distributor sensors with an ohmmeter and look for damaged wiring to the distributor.

 

The only code I have is 9... which is the CYP. That code was thrown after I put in a new dizzy coil..

 

I think it may be my coil again... I just dont know what could keep causing it to go out... I went out about 2 hours ago to leave and it wouldn't even start... checked spark and didn't have anything on #1, #2 & #3 had a faint spark and #4 was bright... Tried again a little while later and I dont have any spark whatsoever

 

Coil or ICM is bad, or connections to them, especially connections to the ICM, they are Quick disconnects so they can be loose, disconnect, "pinch" quick release terminals a little tighter with pliers and reconnect.

With that said, your symptom of not starting until you release ign. switch from crank position is typical of an ign. switch problem that is not uncommon on Honda/Acura....
Honda Service Bulletin - Faulty Ignition Switches. 94

 

I swapped out the coil again and still have no spark... Would faulty ign switch cause no spark? Sorry... Still kind of new to the whole working on my own car thing.... Still learning.

 

But for the pulling E brake and watching the brake light while cranking the light stays on

 

The next thing to look at with a cranks but won't spark-- when you turn the key on but don't crank, the check engine light should come on then go out.

Make sure the plastic insulator plate is in place in the distributor under the rotor. Otherwise sparks can jump down into the bottom part of the distributor and burn stuff out.

You need to resolve the code 9 before expecting it to work.

 

The CEL does go off and the insulator plate is in the distributor. I did pull the connectors off the ICM and bend them a little to make them fit snug as the person above suggested. Haven't checked the light now. Don't know if the code is still being thrown or not. I'm just frustrates with the whole car.

 

Focus on the ignition switch and code 9. If you don't answer ALL questions asked by mk378, then this thread will be locked.

 

Is it true the only way to replace the CYP sensor is by replacing the whole distributor?

 

To avoid thread lock, also answer all of mk's questions posted in this thread.

 

The Check Engine Light does go off when cranking, the insulator plate is in place. I'm in the process of borrowing a ohmmeter to check the CYP to resolve code 9

 

I resolved the issue! I swapped out the distributor with a new one along with cap & rotor. Now the car starts and also the CEL has went off.