Hi,

We recently purchase a 2016 Pilot, so I got the wife's 2006 CR-V. The 1997 Civic I was driving sat for about 2 weeks. When I went to start it, the engine cranks but doesn't start. The things I've tried:

- Replaced battery
- Checked for spark on all wires: okay
- Fuel pump primes when the ignition is turned on: okay
- Removed fuel line that goes to the injector bar: Fuel comes out during cranking
- Checked all injectors with a test light: The light dims for a brief moment during cranking
- Checked that rocker arms are moving during cranking: okay
- No troubleshooting codes: The check engine light stays on, no flashing with the code wire shorted
- Tried spraying carb cleaner in the air intake with the filter removed: No sign of starting
- Ohmed out the position sensors in the ignition module: All were ~350 ohms, which I think is normal.


I'm at a loss. There is an aftermarket (?) anti-theft module that the dealer put on in 1997 when it was purchased brand new. I'm not familiar enough with it to know how it would prevent the engine from starting.

Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

You need fuel, spark and compression.

Did you use an HEI spark tester to test for spark?

You said, "Removed fuel line that goes to the injector bar: Fuel comes out during cranking" and "- Checked all injectors with a test light: The light dims for a brief moment during cranking" what kind of test light, and how did
you connect the test light to the injectors?

Have you pulled out the spark plugs to see if they are "wet" with gas? 94

 

Check the mechanical timing.

The best way to check fuel pressure is with a gauge. The second best way is to take the return hose off where it connects to the metal line at the firewall. Fuel coming out of there when you turn the key on proves that the pump is making full pressure to open the regulator. If you just take the supply hose off of the fuel rail, gas may come out but you have no idea if the pump can make full pressure.

Most aftermarket alarms only have a relay that disables the starter if it thinks you are not authorized to start the car. But if you don't know how it works and never use it it is best to remove them and restore the wiring to stock to avoid problems.

 

Does it stay on without service connector jumped?

Is spark bright white at all 4 plugs?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/

Will the engine start if you spray starting fluid into the throttle body?

 

First, thank you for all of the suggestions.

I had not pulled the spark plugs as suggested. I checked for spark by pulling the wire and used the screwdriver to ground method.

I pulled the first spark plug (furthest to the left when facing the car), and it was extremely oily and dirty. Same goes with 2 & 3. Four looked clean. I cleaned them, checked for spark at the plug and re-installed. I have to admit, they didn't look like they sparked with vigor, but the spark was white in color.

Next, I pulled the distributor cap. I didn't think I needed to since I had seen spark before. Inside, there was quite a bit of corrosion on the contacts for the spark plug wires. I cleaned them with a wire brush. I removed the rotor and inspected the rest of the ignition. There were no signs of burns or black marks.

I also peered inside the throttle body by moving the choke plate? There was a pool of oil and gas at the bottom. I used a paper towel to sop it up.

I tried starting again, and still a no go. I re-cleaned the spark plugs and tried again. It seemed like it wanted to start this time, and I punched the gas as a last resort. Finally it started, ran extremely rough, and then volumes of blue smoke came of the the tail pipe. The engine settled out after that.

The pad where car was sitting has a slight dip towards the passenger side for water run off. Could it be that sitting for two weeks allowed oil to build up in the cylinders such that it fouled the spark plugs? I'll be starting every day until I sell it from now on.

Thanks again for the help.