Sorry if this has been done to death before but I couldn't find enough info from searching.

What do people replace their old mounts with?

I am looking at Tegiwa OEM mounts but I am not sure they will be as good as genuine OEM. However they are a lot cheaper.

I'm not really interested in upgrading the mounts although I've read that Mugen mounts are good and are not too hard.

What are my options?

Cheers,
Tom

 

Hasport or innovative are good. But even the softest (62a durometer polurethane) will still make the cabin vibrate.

I believe oem type r is cheaper than oem base model mounts. Not sure why, maybe harder durometer rubbers are cheaper to manufacturer?

As far as Mugen mounts, I would think they are cheaper than oem type R, for example, when I was shopping for front lower control arms bushings + front compliance bushings, I found out the oem itr bushings were cheaper than the base model bushings (on acuraoemparts.com or oemacuraparts.com) however, Mugen bushings were cheaper than the oem itr bushings on rhdjapan.com...

It took a while for the Mugen bushings to come from Japan but it saved me money and I got Mugen quality cheaper than oem..

Check out rhdjapan.com and compare prices for the mounts shipped vs oem itr shipped vs hasport or innovative..

Lastly, there are always energy suspension inserts or maybe prothane that will be cheaper than all...


Or if you really need to save money, get some window weld (polyurethane in a tube)

Hope this helped

 

If you put 5k-10- miles a year(average) than I say genuine oem type r mounts. If you drive it every other weekend or a couple days a week, or less, I found oem upper mounts (engine/trans) and hasport or innovative subframe mount, this frankenstein gives a little vibration at idle but completely smooths out once in gear. A complete set of stiiff aftermarket poly mount will just shake the car loose, I hate that feeling

 

I put in some HardRace mounts and I regret it. They have since, loosened up, but I'd rather go OEM when I replace these.

 

The spoken word here ^

Hard race mounts if you hate your life. OE or bust.

 

What about OE spec aftermarket such as these;

FRONT LEFT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT INTEGRA DC2 TYPE R B18C - Engine Mounts - Integra DC2 Type R - Honda Integra - Products

 

lol!

If I have to replace even just one of my Hard Race mounts, I'm replacing all of them with Honda OEM. I can't speak to the quality of the part you linked, but I doubt it will be of high quality and reliability like Honda OEM.

Sidenote: I just checked the price on the driver's side upper mount, and its about ~$196 USD, YIKES! lol!

 

I fitted a complete set of Hasport mounts, 70a if I recall. Allot of vibration, BUT the trade off is the performance boost in the handling and cornering department. Decide what the purpose of the car is. I use my car daily, in traffic the vibration can be annoying....is annoying, combined with a noisy ckutch lsd and light flywheel, but when the road opens up, particularly on the twisties....

 

Why are you replacing the mounts? Are they worn out and/or starting to come apart?

 

To be honest I've not even checked. The one that sits by the timing cover is like new, from what I could tell when it was off during a timing belt change.

According to Spoon, the mounts can be changed after 50,000km as the engine starts to sag. Also, from a driving perspective you will loose some amount of 'feel'.

See here
Anyone running Spoon or Mugen mounts?

 

I have Hasport mounts with 62 inserts in one of my ITRs and there is hardly any additional vibration if you bump up the idle about 100 RPM. I have another set to put in the other ITR, but haven't gotten around to putting them in.

 

I cant speak for Spoon or Mugen, but anything other than OEM (or OEM equivalent) is probably going to be harder than OEM. Therefore you will have some additional vibration and noise in the cabin. Our cars are already on the "loud" side to begin with and this will add to it. It will however give you a better "feel" with crisper throttle response and shifting (because the motor is no longer sloshing around in the engine bay). It just makes the car feel more solid but at a price of being louder and vibrating more inside. It can also help with wheel hop if you happen to do burnouts or drag race For me the extra feel outweighs any additional noise.

And adding suspension/arm bushings (OEM or other) will really make the car feel like new. Really just depends what you are looking to do here. Here in the US we have many alternatives to OEM. In a lot of cases you get what you pay for but its not all bad. I just picked up a set of front calipers (refurbished OEM with OEM or equivalent seals) for $120.

 

Thanks for a thorough reply.

I am just looking to refresh with OEM parts. I've found that importing Genuine mounts from Japan is cheaper than buying the UKDM mounts over here.

Which front suspension bushings do you recommend changing first?

I'm also looking at new RTAs bushes as the rubber in mine is cracking.

 

If you don't have a front camber kit (upper control) , change out the upper control arm bushings. As well as the front lower control arms bushings and also the front compliance bushings. If you don't have access to tools to change the bushings, it might be more cost effective to just purchase new front control arms, although I'm not familiar with the price.

 

^Hardrace sells the front upper bushings already assembled for the EG/DC. I put those in my car and there was no loss in ride quality whatsoever. Not bad for $60. I really liked this set.



They also have a spherical option for the hardcore...



As for the engine mounts, WAY too stiff. I installed just the two front torque mounts (lower ones) and the cabin became a massage chair. :\ I had to sell them off.