00 Civic - Lower control arms bolts
Hello guys
Just a silly cuestion about how remove the lower control control arm bolt, the one hold the strut. I'm about to put lowering springs
I just put everyday pb blaster for a week now in about 3 days I will be ready, to start working on it. So far I know it's a PITA to take it off
Tools I already have it
Chicago electric impact wrench cordless
Impact sockets
And some ratchets
Braking bar etc
The best way it's with the tire on or with out tire
And a lot patience
2000 Honda Civic
Just a silly cuestion about how remove the lower control control arm bolt, the one hold the strut. I'm about to put lowering springs
I just put everyday pb blaster for a week now in about 3 days I will be ready, to start working on it. So far I know it's a PITA to take it off
Tools I already have it
Chicago electric impact wrench cordless
Impact sockets
And some ratchets
Braking bar etc
The best way it's with the tire on or with out tire
And a lot patience
2000 Honda Civic
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
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Posts: 11,953
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
If it doesn't come off by turning it counter clockwise like any bolt...it is probably rusted to the bushing and will require cutting it off.
Spray penetrating oil. Hit the bolt head with a hammer. Let it sit for hours or a day or two.
Jack the car up and remove the wheels. Put it on jack stands.
Turn the bolt counterclockwise. Try the impact first. It may break loose.
Then try the breaker bar. You'll probably see the bushing turning with the bolt. The bolt is rusted to the bushing usually. Turn it til it comes loose...or breaks. If it breaks, cut it out with a sawzall. Buy new bushings or control arms.
Spray penetrating oil. Hit the bolt head with a hammer. Let it sit for hours or a day or two.
Jack the car up and remove the wheels. Put it on jack stands.
Turn the bolt counterclockwise. Try the impact first. It may break loose.
Then try the breaker bar. You'll probably see the bushing turning with the bolt. The bolt is rusted to the bushing usually. Turn it til it comes loose...or breaks. If it breaks, cut it out with a sawzall. Buy new bushings or control arms.
Be warned: Make sure to take the load off of the bolt before attempting removal. These are high grade bolts that are hardened and will NOT be drilled out easy.
I speak from experience as I broke BOTH LCA bolts Trying to do the same thing you speak of. Quite the expensive repair.
I speak from experience as I broke BOTH LCA bolts Trying to do the same thing you speak of. Quite the expensive repair.
sounds like im in a trouble.......
in the worst case...... cutting means cut the strut...... will need struts and control arm?
for the control arm i need go oem? or those camber kit i look it up and those are cheap.... the springs drop the car 1.5" so camber kit won't be necessary
suggestion please
bushing part #
control arm # or get a used one junk yard no problem
camber kit shine stuff
struts kyb all 4 struts for $214
i never thought lower a car will be so difficult
OR JUST GO WITH MY LOCAL MECHANIC AR RAPE ME WITH $300 BUCKS AND MAYBE HE CALL ME LATER WITH THE SAME RESULT
"WELL I NEED TO CUT THE CONTROL ARM YOU WILL NEED A NEW ONE "
in the worst case...... cutting means cut the strut...... will need struts and control arm?
for the control arm i need go oem? or those camber kit i look it up and those are cheap.... the springs drop the car 1.5" so camber kit won't be necessary
suggestion please
bushing part #
control arm # or get a used one junk yard no problem
camber kit shine stuff
struts kyb all 4 struts for $214
i never thought lower a car will be so difficult
OR JUST GO WITH MY LOCAL MECHANIC AR RAPE ME WITH $300 BUCKS AND MAYBE HE CALL ME LATER WITH THE SAME RESULT
"WELL I NEED TO CUT THE CONTROL ARM YOU WILL NEED A NEW ONE "
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Well...if ONLY the shock bolts are stuck:
-Then just remove the arm and shock as an assembly.
-Cut the bolts off once the arms are off. Its wicked easy.
-You will need new arms or bushings.
-You can re-use the shock by breaking off the weld nut using an impact. IDK if your HF impact will do it. I always recommend buying a good impact or not buying one at all...but we're past that point. You'll need a M8 X 1.25 nut and replacement M8 X 1.25 , class 10.9 or better bolts. Not class 8.8. 10.9 or better. Metric. Buy the bolts from honda to make it easy.
If the chassis bolt and trailing arm bolts are ALSO stuck:
-F*#k drilling anything. That takes all day. Cut them off. Sawzall is best...or angle grinder with a cut off wheel.
-Chop the arms into pieces if it allows you better access to the bolts.
Other tips:
-The $300 you were going to pay your mechanic buys you a angle grinder, sawzall, and multiple sandwiches. I'd do it yourself unless you're looking for convenience.
-I would not use your stock shocks with lowering springs. Buy something decent, yet cost effective like Bilstein HD's or Koni Yellows.
-Its 2016. $500-600 will buy you a good set of coilovers for street use.
Tire rack was having a sale on spring and Koni yellow combos. Not sure if they still are, but there were some DEALS.
I would not use a lowering spring that lowers the car more than about 1.25'' on any stock length shock. This includes Koni yellows. Any more than 1.25'', and you're about to have a bad time.
If you need more than 1.25'', you need coilovers that come with shortened front shocks...or you need shortened front shocks.
For replacement arms, I would either buy used good condition OEM (ha!), OEM replacement from a reputable company (ha!), OEM from Honda, or Function 7.
-Then just remove the arm and shock as an assembly.
-Cut the bolts off once the arms are off. Its wicked easy.
-You will need new arms or bushings.
-You can re-use the shock by breaking off the weld nut using an impact. IDK if your HF impact will do it. I always recommend buying a good impact or not buying one at all...but we're past that point. You'll need a M8 X 1.25 nut and replacement M8 X 1.25 , class 10.9 or better bolts. Not class 8.8. 10.9 or better. Metric. Buy the bolts from honda to make it easy.
If the chassis bolt and trailing arm bolts are ALSO stuck:
-F*#k drilling anything. That takes all day. Cut them off. Sawzall is best...or angle grinder with a cut off wheel.
-Chop the arms into pieces if it allows you better access to the bolts.
Other tips:
-The $300 you were going to pay your mechanic buys you a angle grinder, sawzall, and multiple sandwiches. I'd do it yourself unless you're looking for convenience.
-I would not use your stock shocks with lowering springs. Buy something decent, yet cost effective like Bilstein HD's or Koni Yellows.
-Its 2016. $500-600 will buy you a good set of coilovers for street use.
Tire rack was having a sale on spring and Koni yellow combos. Not sure if they still are, but there were some DEALS.
I would not use a lowering spring that lowers the car more than about 1.25'' on any stock length shock. This includes Koni yellows. Any more than 1.25'', and you're about to have a bad time.
If you need more than 1.25'', you need coilovers that come with shortened front shocks...or you need shortened front shocks.
For replacement arms, I would either buy used good condition OEM (ha!), OEM replacement from a reputable company (ha!), OEM from Honda, or Function 7.
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Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Lol. Nah, he had a legitimate question. And english may not be his first language. He typed it all out clearly enough. True that they're just bolts. But some people just don't know or are too shy to get medieval on these bolts. There is some technique to it all. I don't mind helping.
that's why forums are shitty this days with people like you.
I thought forums made for help others, and don't worry about my grammar I'm learning.
And don't be offended I just replied like you.
Well...if ONLY the shock bolts are stuck:
-Then just remove the arm and shock as an assembly.
-Cut the bolts off once the arms are off. Its wicked easy.
-You will need new arms or bushings.
-You can re-use the shock by breaking off the weld nut using an impact. IDK if your HF impact will do it. I always recommend buying a good impact or not buying one at all...but we're past that point. You'll need a M8 X 1.25 nut and replacement M8 X 1.25 , class 10.9 or better bolts. Not class 8.8. 10.9 or better. Metric. Buy the bolts from honda to make it easy.
If the chassis bolt and trailing arm bolts are ALSO stuck:
-F*#k drilling anything. That takes all day. Cut them off. Sawzall is best...or angle grinder with a cut off wheel.
-Chop the arms into pieces if it allows you better access to the bolts.
Other tips:
-The $300 you were going to pay your mechanic buys you a angle grinder, sawzall, and multiple sandwiches. I'd do it yourself unless you're looking for convenience.
-I would not use your stock shocks with lowering springs. Buy something decent, yet cost effective like Bilstein HD's or Koni Yellows.
-Its 2016. $500-600 will buy you a good set of coilovers for street use.
Tire rack was having a sale on spring and Koni yellow combos. Not sure if they still are, but there were some DEALS.
I would not use a lowering spring that lowers the car more than about 1.25'' on any stock length shock. This includes Koni yellows. Any more than 1.25'', and you're about to have a bad time.
If you need more than 1.25'', you need coilovers that come with shortened front shocks...or you need shortened front shocks.
For replacement arms, I would either buy used good condition OEM (ha!), OEM replacement from a reputable company (ha!), OEM from Honda, or Function 7.
-Then just remove the arm and shock as an assembly.
-Cut the bolts off once the arms are off. Its wicked easy.
-You will need new arms or bushings.
-You can re-use the shock by breaking off the weld nut using an impact. IDK if your HF impact will do it. I always recommend buying a good impact or not buying one at all...but we're past that point. You'll need a M8 X 1.25 nut and replacement M8 X 1.25 , class 10.9 or better bolts. Not class 8.8. 10.9 or better. Metric. Buy the bolts from honda to make it easy.
If the chassis bolt and trailing arm bolts are ALSO stuck:
-F*#k drilling anything. That takes all day. Cut them off. Sawzall is best...or angle grinder with a cut off wheel.
-Chop the arms into pieces if it allows you better access to the bolts.
Other tips:
-The $300 you were going to pay your mechanic buys you a angle grinder, sawzall, and multiple sandwiches. I'd do it yourself unless you're looking for convenience.
-I would not use your stock shocks with lowering springs. Buy something decent, yet cost effective like Bilstein HD's or Koni Yellows.
-Its 2016. $500-600 will buy you a good set of coilovers for street use.
Tire rack was having a sale on spring and Koni yellow combos. Not sure if they still are, but there were some DEALS.
I would not use a lowering spring that lowers the car more than about 1.25'' on any stock length shock. This includes Koni yellows. Any more than 1.25'', and you're about to have a bad time.
If you need more than 1.25'', you need coilovers that come with shortened front shocks...or you need shortened front shocks.
For replacement arms, I would either buy used good condition OEM (ha!), OEM replacement from a reputable company (ha!), OEM from Honda, or Function 7.

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