finally got the plx-dm6 installed. seems to be working good.
stock usdm type-r motor with 2.5 exhaust and try-why header ebay short ram 68mm throttle body

using this basemap as a starting point(attachment)

the crome manual says not to trust them for built motor.
does that mean they are accurate for stock motor?

I never enabled the knock sensor before. just decided to see what it does today first time after I got the fuel tables where they supposed to be

and I got this after few minutes of driving around
its set to around 15afr at low throttle to 13afr at wot somewhat consistent



I'm assuming the numbers mean roughly how much ignition retard I need in each cell/column?

I have never messed with ignition tables since I don't fully understand how to street tune them...


2) I'm still confused what exactly is the offset adjustment in gold rom. is it same as overall fuel trim in Neptune?

3)lets say that i adjusted the multiplier and it idles at 14.7 but then the rest of the maps is much higher numbers than the idle area. in other words if the idle fuel graph is a giant gap compared to the rest of the map
do i readjust the multiplier to even out the maps?

 

every cell needs to be tuned individually, for both fuel and ignition. ignore multipliers. as long as the car starts great when cold and hot, the multipliers don't need to be touched

 

Car starts too lean when cold. I need to adjust cold start a bit.
Otherwise its good when warm at idle

 

I tuned about 4-5 of my motors and never touched the ignition tables. This is the first time im planning to edit ignition just wanted to know if i can use knock sensor as general reference for ignition tuning.

 

I've never used a knock sensor before when tuning with crome. I go by sound, power, plug readings, and fuel curve. I'm not very fond of obd1 knock sensor operation, especially with built motors that can make a TON of internal noise making the knock sensor read false knock

 

I have a completely stock motor as I mentioned above.
that's why I tried it.

 

I uploaded my map in the first post attachment if anyone want to look at it

so should I trust the knock tables or use them as reference? and how

 

I mean if it was that useless honda wouldnt bother putting it in and designing the knock sensor board.

Theres nothing anywhere i can find besides people on every board repeating eachother.
Which is understandable for built motors but why not good enough to use it for a bone stock motor?

 

so can i use this table as a reference?
If its good enough for honda stock ecu why is it not good for tuning?

 

Hey raver3xm, Do you have any exterior pics of your car? Also, any pics of the DM6 setup?

 

paint sucks I need to paint it first
and its just dangling on the cluser now.
I found theres no way to really mount the gauge. theres nothing on the back.
no brackets no anything to really mount on and the clip that holds the wire keeps flying off

I'm satisfied with the gauge operation btw
but not very happy with the overall design of the gauge. looks cheap

innovate mtx-L looked professional overall design but it sucked *** with reliability and longevity of sensors
I was under the impression that the whole gauge was LCD screen but I can see those little sensor ***** and it looks a bit cheesy

just my honest review I like the kit and at this point don't care about looks as long as it controls the sensor correctly unlike mtx-l
but if it was slightly better looking I would definitely integrate it into my cluster like I had before.

maybe also offer trim rings to be able to fit it into a regular size gauge opening

and direct serial usb plug in would be cool so I can plug it into my laptop and not have to calibrate it through d14 input

 

The stock motor generally reads knock pretty well even on boost. But there's often a lot more head noise with aftermarket injectors, so if it were my car I wouldn't trust it. Especially with how many readings you're getting, that's not how it's supposed to look. Unless you really are pinging like crazy. Check your plugs.
I'm surprised you're still messing with Crome.
Also surprised you're not using knock ears and/or a knocksense.

 

thanks it seemed a little odd when numbers didnt make alot of sense. Im messing with crome because i only have one neptune ecu and thats for another car
I use crome for basic motors like this
Its cheaper and where it doesnt require much tuning
Crome still good for basic stuff and much cheaper when you go through 3-4 cars a year

 

We do offer a sun visor and multiple size/style gauge mounts for the DM gauges on the accessories section of our online store. I'm working with process engineering now to see if we can start shipping the DMs directly with the mounting brackets, or possibly offer some sort of deal so that mounts are always included in the purchase. Thanks for the feedback.