CRX keeps dying in traffic after 10 minutes of driving
88 crx 5spd DPFI D15B2
Recently my CRX has been stalling out and having trouble staying running in traffic. The only trouble codes I get are Code 7, and code 20. Code 20 is the ELD, and I have a new fusebox on the way to fix that, but the TPS issue is one I've been fighting all month. I swapped one from another DPFI crx, calibrated it to 0.48V at idle and I'm still getting CELs. Confirmed 5V power to TPS, rewired ground to chassis, with 0.0 resistance.
I also keep getting misfires too, and my tach is jumping when it happens. I thought the ignitor was shot, so I bought a used dizzy from someone with a new ignitor in it, and swapped my brand new cap and rotor over to that dizzy, bolted it up and it ran better, but I'm still having stalling issues. The tach also jumps around still, so the new ignitor didn't fix the issue? Maybe its the coil? It also seems to only do it after its had a chance to warm up, cold idle is strong as all hell and turning on full accessory electrical load does little to affect idle (could just be the 1000 rpm CEL idle that's helping that). Once the cold idle has toned down it begins to have stalling issues, but when you gas it up and drive it the engine pulls relatively smoothly (albeit weak at times due to TPS fault). Cruising is not an issue, the engine runs fine cruising, but when you clutch in at speed it can die on you at 40 mph.
I notice that the weak idle is worsened by pushing the brakes, and that can sometimes stall out the car.
Car has new NGK plugs, new NGK wires, new ignitor, new cap and new rotor, new main relay, fuel pump primes with every ignition ON sequence.
I really need help. I've been chasing this tps issue all month and I'm about to say **** it I'm swapping another engine in this cursed car.
Recently my CRX has been stalling out and having trouble staying running in traffic. The only trouble codes I get are Code 7, and code 20. Code 20 is the ELD, and I have a new fusebox on the way to fix that, but the TPS issue is one I've been fighting all month. I swapped one from another DPFI crx, calibrated it to 0.48V at idle and I'm still getting CELs. Confirmed 5V power to TPS, rewired ground to chassis, with 0.0 resistance.
I also keep getting misfires too, and my tach is jumping when it happens. I thought the ignitor was shot, so I bought a used dizzy from someone with a new ignitor in it, and swapped my brand new cap and rotor over to that dizzy, bolted it up and it ran better, but I'm still having stalling issues. The tach also jumps around still, so the new ignitor didn't fix the issue? Maybe its the coil? It also seems to only do it after its had a chance to warm up, cold idle is strong as all hell and turning on full accessory electrical load does little to affect idle (could just be the 1000 rpm CEL idle that's helping that). Once the cold idle has toned down it begins to have stalling issues, but when you gas it up and drive it the engine pulls relatively smoothly (albeit weak at times due to TPS fault). Cruising is not an issue, the engine runs fine cruising, but when you clutch in at speed it can die on you at 40 mph.
I notice that the weak idle is worsened by pushing the brakes, and that can sometimes stall out the car.
Car has new NGK plugs, new NGK wires, new ignitor, new cap and new rotor, new main relay, fuel pump primes with every ignition ON sequence.
I really need help. I've been chasing this tps issue all month and I'm about to say **** it I'm swapping another engine in this cursed car.
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I ordered a new coil with some parts for my other vehicle, it only was like 20 bucks. I never have installed one, but I know mine might be fried because of the age?
I ordered a new coil with some parts for my other vehicle, it only was like 20 bucks. I never have installed one, but I know mine might be fried because of the age?
Whenever the brake lights come on it seems to worsen the issue and stall more often. I feel its related to this ELD in the fusebox, since i have code 20. Good thing i have one in the mail...
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Bought a used fuse box on ebay and swapped it out. No more code 20, I get no stalling anymore, but the TPS makes driving this car annoying. I also had the idle screw backed out way too far.
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