How to take off stuck lca bolt? not snapped.
Trying to take off lca but bolt stuck. It's the most outer bolt, next to the strut/lca bolt. The bolt isn't snapped and I can turn it a bit but it has resistant so when i stop putting force on the wrench, the bolt goes back like a resistance band ending up not being loosened at all. I'm thinking it's fused with the bushing or metal in it. Tried spraying rust penetrate and using breaker bar but theres little clearance so i can't go a whole lot of leverage on it, as it's on the passenger side. How should i go about taking it out?
Then get one. You can buy a cheapie at Harbor Freight, or you can rent a good one at a rental supply place.
Alternatively, you can take it to some garage and pay them to buzz it loose than re-tighten it for you. After that it ought to come loose fairly easily with hand-tools.
Alternatively, you can take it to some garage and pay them to buzz it loose than re-tighten it for you. After that it ought to come loose fairly easily with hand-tools.
Heat the bolt with a propane torch then try opening it.
Also try using a jack under the lca to even the joint to remove the bolts straight out, might have tention from the weight preventing the bolt from coming out straight.
Also try using a jack under the lca to even the joint to remove the bolts straight out, might have tention from the weight preventing the bolt from coming out straight.
I borrowed an impact. Tried blastin it with rust penetrate and pounding around it to break up anything but still won't come out. Only one bolt and it's preventing me from changing lca lol. I'll keep trying to see what i can do.
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Pretty much this, it can happen to random bolts on the lca.
If it really is seized, you'll just have to cut the head off, and then cut the welded "nut" on the back side.
Unless you can get crazy with a torch, or have some weird angles to cut the lca around the bolt.
If it really is seized, you'll just have to cut the head off, and then cut the welded "nut" on the back side.
Unless you can get crazy with a torch, or have some weird angles to cut the lca around the bolt.
Pretty much this, it can happen to random bolts on the lca.
If it really is seized, you'll just have to cut the head off, and then cut the welded "nut" on the back side.
Unless you can get crazy with a torch, or have some weird angles to cut the lca around the bolt.
If it really is seized, you'll just have to cut the head off, and then cut the welded "nut" on the back side.
Unless you can get crazy with a torch, or have some weird angles to cut the lca around the bolt.
These OFTEN if not ALWAYS fuse to the sleeves in the bushings. I've done all but the "compensator arm" bushings on my car, and have had to cut almost every bolt to get the arms out. I just went to Menards, bought some new bolts and washers and have not had a problem since. I used an angle grinder when I could, and a Dremel when I had to. However a sawsall with a metal cutting blade should go though the bolt no problem. There's always a hack saw if you have the time and endurance!
exactly! your likelihood of breaking that bolt free is like 10% id say. if you are changing out the control arm then just cut the thing out. the head of the bolt will fall right out and the threaded part will work out easily since its not the part thats seized. the sawzall will blast through it in less than a minute just watch the end of the blade make sure it doesnt bash into something.
if you are deadset on saving the lca, cut the head off the bolt then use a heavy duty right angle drill. good luck and welcome to the world of honda seized ribbed bolts. when you reassemble, use regular bolts and slop them up with grease
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