So, I have a chipped p28. everything has been great with it until yesterday.

I went out to start it and it wouldn't. then noticed that the fuel pump wasn't priming

I checked all the fuses and there were 2 that were blown. so I replaced them and exactly the same. no prime.
It turns over no problem, new battery too

today I took the main relay plug out and followed some instructions I read online.
I got the fuel pump to prime from pin 1 and 7. but not on 5 and 7.

so I know the pump is good, but I am unsure where to go from here.

All fuses are good and checked.

I also have a CEL. I bridged the two wires on passenger side to get a code, but it just stays solid.
I made sure that there were bridged definitely by cutting the plug off and stripping the wires. still solid CEL

the only thing that I have done since the car ran 2 days ago, is pull the carpet out.
I thought maybe I could have tugged a wire from ecu or something. but they all look spot on.

also, oil light doesn't come on dash on turn II
I get CEL, and park brake

where do I move on from here?

any and all help appreciated

 

Probably the capacitors on the ECU need to be replaced.

https://www.hondata.com/products/acc.../capacitor-kit

 

yup, that^

the ecu could be cooked too. I see entirely too many chipped ecu's that had terrible work done to it to chip it, causing all sorts of issues.
it's also possible the chip went bad. if the chip is not SST brand, it does not belong in the ecu.

 

Does the main relay click at all when you move the key position to ON right before cranking?

An ECU that "boots" properly when you turn the key to ON without cranking will:

1) Turn on and hold the CE light ON for the entire fuel pump priming routine
2) Activate the fuel pump via the main relay for 2-3 seconds (unless modified in the programming)
3) Deactivate the fuel pump via the main relay and turn off the CE light. You should hear the main relay click when the CE light and fuel pump turn off

If the fuel pump is not priming, the CE light comes on and stays on and you don't hear the main relay, the ECU is in a fault loop waiting for the correct electrical triggers before allowing the engine to start. Sometimes if you leave it with the key on for 5-15 minutes, it will "wake up" and you'll be fine unless you allow the ECU to get "cold" again. If the main relay is bad, the ECU will never come out of this infinite loop.

I'm trying to explain this as simply as possible. If you have a spare main relay, try it. They usually go bad because of faulty solder joints but you can fix this by reflowing the solder on the contacts with a soldering iron. Search on here for a DIY.

Tell me your results from the 3 steps above.

 

Sounds to me like you have a bad main relay.... Had that issue more times that I'd like to admit..... LOL

 

if your fuses are blown, it certainly could be the main relay. But you're also having signs of ecu failure. did you get water in the car or leaking on the wiring?
if you did a wire tuck, that's your problem. roll the car off a cliff and start over. never do a wire tuck.

 

No wire tuck and inside of car is and was bone dry.

I haven't got a chance to look at it since I wrote this. Tomorrow I'm going to spend the day on it.
I have a multimeter. Where shall I start?
What process of elimination should I go through?

All I can see I've possibly done
Is when pulling out carpet. A random wire has hit the floor and killed ecu or I've overlooked a fuse.
I hope it is just a relay. But probably not knowing my luck

 

Ok. Update.

I did some checks today with multimetre.

I tested all the fuses again and all good.

I tested feed to the main relay and I have a battery live (1) But no ignition switch power (5) unless I bridge 1 and 3 I think it was. Then I get a power feed to number 5. And the battery light on the dash comes on.

I took my ecu off and plugged it onto another car and it does all it should. All lights on dash come on and fuel pump primes.
So the ecu is good.

Where do I need to check now?