I have a trans from a 1994 Honda Accord ex that I am putting in a 1997 EX I am replacing the solenoids and font main seal and Line seals, what other seals should I replace while it is out? The replacement trans has been sitting a couple of years.

 

If the TC has been left installed you probably can leave that seal alone, although I would opt to replace the O ring seal its only a few cents, the main oil seal for the TC is a bit more and a bit of a PITA to remove.

Replace the axle shaft seals on the differential. Easy enough to do in car, but easier to do now.

Replace the engines rear main seal. If it isn't leaking now, it probably will in 10Kmiles. BTDT.

No need to replace the solenoids, pull the NM and NC sensors, wipe them clean and use new O rings on those. Much easier to get to now.

Look at the hardline atf cooler lines. Purchase four 94109-12000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM) Remove your old lines and verify they are clean of debris. Better to reuse your cars existing lines, sometimes used transmissions are pulled and the lines are bent/kinked.

Drain your 'new' trans and verify the fluid is just old and not chunky or excessively slurred up. If it is grey in color it may be a high mileage unit with a partially blocked pickup. Use a hydraulic cleaner such as Trans Tune to break down and clean out any junk that may be in the trans. I would suggest changing out the fluid after the first 500miles to aid in removal of any contaminants.

If you have not pulled the trans out of your car yet, or never have on a '94-'97 I would suggest checking out Remove/Insall AT to save you some time and aggro.

 

Thank you for the quick reply! what are the NM and NC sensors?

 

On the 'right side cover' there are two sensors that monitor the shaft speeds of the transmission. The TCU/PCM use these to determine when to correctly upshift.

 

It figures the dealer was out of the o rings ,75 dollars for the rear main, the diff seals and crush washers for the drain plug and cooler lines, and a 6 dollar spindle nut. UN believable!!

 

$75 for a rear main? They are bending you over without vaseline. I did this on my 96 Accord about 6 months ago and I got the rear main seal from the dealer for around $15-18. MSRP is less than $20. Are you sure they aren't selling the whole piece that the rear main seal goes into?

 

22 dollars rear main, 13 each diff seals. 4.00 each for the crush washers and 7 for the spindle nut 69.84 total Wifey said 75 but close enough

 

I'd ask them for a better price. My dealer will always negotiate with you on parts. I didn't do the differential seals, or need the spindle nut but they charged me $15-18 for the rear main seal and gave me the crush washer I needed for free.

 

I will have to remember that but I mostly deal with Majestic I just wanted these quick and I paid for it!

 

RockAuto is your friend for parts, save for the hard to find/dealer only items like the NM/NC O rings and trans cooler crush rings.

When you get the O rings before leaving the counter make sure the cashier doesn't staple the receipt through the O-ring. Had that happen to me, right in front of the parts manager. Comedy gold.

 

Ok I have the trans in and it is pouring out the front main of the trans now ran it for a few days first before it started leaking

 

Ok guys if you trans has been sitting replace the front seal also they shrink a little and can pop out.Mine was actually stuck to the torque converter It takes 10 minutes to change and save hours of labor.Freeze the front seal and it makes it a breeze to but in