Ok another pretty stupid question, first time disassembling a motor and i just wanna know if you can remove the clutch and flywheel with the cylinder head off. And if so how, no matter how I pin it down all it does is spin anyway.

Seems like I should be able to hault timing while doing this, but the motor doesn't have a crank pulley. Or am I just stupid? Eh, help pls?

 

Yes, you can remove it with the head off.

To stop it from turning: Put a bolt in one of the alignment pin holes and use it as a resting spot for a flat head screw driver that you stick into the flywheel teeth.

Just make sure you find TDC before reinstalling everything.

 

Also, I'm pretty sure the flywheel bolts are reverse thread. RonJ or Tony, can you confirm or deny? I've only done it twice so I can't remember.

 

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/

Being a regular doesn't excuse you from following the rules.

If you have an air compressor, an air impact would be great, but most people don't have a compressor that can do it. Electric impact gun will be your best friend. It'll spin those ******* right off. When you put them back on, use a tiny bit of HondaLock 2 or 3 on the threads. The FSM doesn't specify it, but I'm speaking from experience when I say you'll thank me later.

 

I'm standing in front of the block right now and I don't see it. All the holes just have threads in them. Also I don't know if I mentioned but the whole clutch, tob, and pp are in too.

Is it on the tranny side or on the cam side of the motor?

And the motor is a B16a.

 

X2

 

Which one? What car?

The flywheel bolts on my 97 Civic DX are conventional threads. I doubt the B16 are different, though I'm not absolutely sure.

 

They sell special tools that hold the wheel whee while you remove the bolts that hold it on.
You also need to remove the clutch and pressure plate to access the flywheel bolts.

If you are having trouble removing the pressure plate bolts. And don't have a tool to hold the fly wheel in space. A big flat head between the teeth on the flywheel and pushed against the trans will keep it from spinning.

 

This tool works:


I think it's a free rental at O"Reillys.

 

A big flathead it is. Thanks guys


And its the pr3-3 b16a, going into a eg but not yet so didnt list the car lol sorry

 

Pressure plate and clutch plate must be removed before you can access the flywheel bolts. There are 6 bolts around the perimeter of the pressure plate that you should back out evenly so as not to warp your hardware, they are conventional thread, left to loosen.

A hint to break them loose initially without buying extravagant tools is to use a breaker bar (not necessarily a big one, just one that holds the socket stationary) with the correct socket and tap the handle of the breaker bar with a mallet with minimal force to break torque load. Dont go crazy with it, you just need to get the initial load off the bolt.

Proceed to do this to all 6 of the pressure plate bolts so all you have to do is back them out evenly until the pressure plate no longer exerts force on the clutch disc and flywheel. If you are reusing your pressure plate for some reason, mark at least one of the alignment dowels and the hole it goes through to keep the original position of the pressure plate on reassembly.

Once the pressure plate and clutch disc are removed, you will see another 6 larger bolt heads at the central hub of the flywheel, the same technique can be applied to them, but you should secure the flywheel as mentioned above, again, mark a hole in the flywheel and the corresponding hole in the crankshaft end to retain position.

You can move forward from there quite easily.

 

An electric impact is an extravagant tool, now? I hope that was either a joke, or aimed at someone else's tool recommendation...

 

FYI the only reverse threads I've ever encountered are on the ring gear for the differential (final drive gear).

 

I pulled my flywheel on my b20vtec a couple of hours ago. The electric impact did the trick for me. I was able to use allen wrenches on the pressure plate with a screwdriver holding it in place, but I couldn't get the flywheel bolts loose with hand tools.

 

i only use an electric impact. $40 at harbor freight 4+ years ago, and still going strong. the only thing its ever not taken directly off are crank pulley bolts, but i've seen plenty of pneumatic guns fail at removing them as well.

 

If the engine is on an engine stand you're going to need to figure out a way to hold the flywheel or the crank in place to remove the bolts. If it were in the car and the crank was still on you'll need crank tool.

Next time please be descriptive about the problem. I got confused at why you would need to remove the head to get to the flywheel bolts...

 

Ah, you caught me. It WAS jokingly, but still...I DO know people who think exactly like that.
Personally, on the pressure plate bolts I can just use my cheapo ryobi impact driver with a socket attachment to get them off easily enough. I'll end up using my Milwaukee electric impact on the flywheel bolts and crank bolt...easy as can be.

 

That's

Uh

wat?

If the engine was on an engine rotisserie, you would have essentially zero access to the flywheel bolts. Most rotisseries mount on the transmission side of the engine. Besides, the flywheel is something you put on after the engine is assembled and in the car. I feel like OP has everyone equally confused, since they have been vague to the point of it being intentionally annoying.

It's all good Honestly, when you start getting to this level of working on a car, even if it's just your own car, a good electric impact should be a must-have. It's a $150 tool that's a one-time purchase, and makes nearly everything infinitely easier to do.

 

He didn't state where the engine was, in the car or on and engine stand. Again, if it were in the car the crank tool would be helpful here.

 

Sorry guys motor is out of the car. So this is what im dealing with, I just want to know how I can stop the clutch/flywheel assembly from moving while removing it.

 

Secure the crank pulley.

 

Secure the crank as well as the block, jesus, that thing is gonna roll off that table and hurt something.

 

first set your ratchet to loosen. From the picture you are tightening it.
Get a hammer and bang the ratchet if you have no way to secure it.
The fast impact won't spin the fly wheel but will break the bolt loose making it easier to come out.

 

The motor came with no crank pulley
Haha, I had the whole long block sitting there like that for a few months. I still feel bad. But everything is getting refreshed so eh

So how would you go about this if you only power tools and no crank pulley?
I just did that for the pic, I couldn't use a 1/4 on that lol.

I have no impact or power tools... Is this impossible?

 

Go buy an electric impact. Problem solved. you're at the point with that motor that you need proper tools, not just whatever hand tools you have laying around. Go buy a crank pulley. Problem solved.