heating and idle problem
hi guys
hope you can help me out.. i just did a b16a1 swap on my 90 hatch ed7.. everything is running well exept when i first start the idle is playing between 1000 and 2000 revs after some driving it will low down.. the other problem is that on idle the temp is ok after some driving the temp will rise. i dont have a thermostat and the fan is switching ok. what could be the problem??
hope you can help me out.. i just did a b16a1 swap on my 90 hatch ed7.. everything is running well exept when i first start the idle is playing between 1000 and 2000 revs after some driving it will low down.. the other problem is that on idle the temp is ok after some driving the temp will rise. i dont have a thermostat and the fan is switching ok. what could be the problem??
Poor heat + idle irregularity = air in coolant
Most likely. Bleed cooling system and report back. While you're at it, put an OEM thermostat in. If Honda could have saved $1.50 across one million cars by not sticking a thermostat in, don't you think they would have?
Most likely. Bleed cooling system and report back. While you're at it, put an OEM thermostat in. If Honda could have saved $1.50 across one million cars by not sticking a thermostat in, don't you think they would have?
i didnt put the thermo stat in place because i saw some corrosion and didnt want the corrosion to get stuck with the thermostat. have one new just need to clean the system first.
hi guys. i put the thermostat in place rebleed the cooling system and the idle prob is ''solved'' when start it will go up 2k rev but after a while it drops, it didnt play between 1k and 2k but still have the heating problem.. on idle its ok the fan switch on the temp stay a little under the middle but after i take a little drive it will go up..dont know whsat can i do more
If you found enough corrosion to raise a red flag and not replace the thermostat, then I suggest flushing your heater core. It can become clogged with said debris and wont allow warm coolant to pass through as easily.
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But more importantly, your radiator should be flushed/replaced. If there's a blockage in the heater core, the coolant will bypass and continue to circulate no worries.
The fan switch is it OEM or aftermarket.... Had a crap aftermarket made in Mexico one and the fan temp engagement point was a quarter of the way higher than where it was supposed to be. So it would go up in traffic or idle and go down when I accelerated or was on the highway.
Glad you got it going!
I'm curious about the corrosion.
Coolant has ingredients in it to prevent corrosion. If you run straight water, then you get issues.
Hope you have coolant in there!
I'm curious about the corrosion.
Coolant has ingredients in it to prevent corrosion. If you run straight water, then you get issues.
Hope you have coolant in there!
Be careful with those fittings on the firewall. They're brass and crumple easily
You can't remove the hoses, just slice them off.
I say remove the hose from the motor side and proceed with the flush.
You can't remove the hoses, just slice them off.
I say remove the hose from the motor side and proceed with the flush.
im removing the blower from inside the car because im trying to put the car to track.. i asked before i did this and was told that there should be no prob about it
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