Got a 95 civic the main wire to the ignition switch gets very hot. I haven't wired in anything extra. I bought a new ignition switch and it still gets super hot has anyone else had this problem?

 

Does it get hot when the ignition is only in II(ON) or does it get hot regardless if the engine is running or not?

Do a voltage/amp draw test with a meter on the negative side of the battery. If there is a high amp draw, start pulling fuses til the draw is reduced/removed. Then diagnose why that circuit is pulling excessive ampacity.

Always good idea to check basics as well.
Verify battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify major body, engine, harness grounds are clean and tight.
Any signs of corrosion on the wiring may indicate the wiring is faulty and causing a high resistance load.

 

How exactly did you come about noticing that the ignition switch wire was hot? Add some informative background to your first post.

 

Why did you have to replace it in the first place? Also answer the questions above in post #2.

 

The original switch melted the solder off the main white wire figured it was faulty switch bought a complete new one gets very hot in the on position engine doesn't have to be running

 

wow be careful, your about to get a fire.

I guess i would pull all fuses and see which circuit it is that makes it super hot.

 

Does the wire get hot with key in ON(I), ON(II), or ON(III)?

 

Gets hot when on also while running. I haven't changed any electronic in over a year except complete new ignition switch key and tumbler too

 

I I and III

 

Even without starting and running engine?

Not ON(I) also?

 

Yes gets hot with key on engine off

 

 

Key one is accessories key two powers ICM fuel pump Ecu ...ECT three is turning motor over. Hot while in two and three position not one the old ignition switch burned up figured it was old and that caused it put new one in found out it still gets hot been working like crazy at work haven't messed with in a while. But I bought a power probe going to pull fuses and start from ground zero this weekend

 

USDM or CDM Civic?

Remove dash fuses 13 through 15 and dash fuses 24 and 25. Does the wire still get hot with key in ON(II)?

 

Usdm civic

 

 

Been on all data at work and plus google found old forums that they found the Main relay or ICM is the main cause of the problem. Also on same year model Accord they had issues of the same nature. My signal from ECU to the AC relay went out a month before this problem now this so it could be ECU issue. I bought a used one on ebay so I'll try it too

 

I'll try that tomorrow

 

Don't guess. Be methodical by removing the fuses I mentioned to see if problem is eliminated. This is the first step in pinpointing the problem.

 

Will do I just like having a back up plan it's hard to hang at the shop on the weekends working with the wife at home calling every hour lol so I'll start with fuses and go forward I have a spare ICM already from my Ex build

 

OK I have figure why the ignition switch got hot in the first place. In side the distributior there is a seal to keep oil out. So all the Royal Purple oil got in there and shorted the icm and did a number on the wires. Replaced everything in it. Cost me 15 bucks for a seal kit I had an extra distributior I robbed parts from. Fixed the ignition and she purrrs again thx everyone for you input