first off thanks to turbohatchd16y7 for letting me know my maps need a lot of work. long story short i had my car tuned last weekend which was having a cut/miss issue at 7800rpm. tuner thought it was electrical. come to find out his o2 on the dyno was messed up and my car is all the way lean at idle and all the way rich at part or full throttle. he is going to retune for free but i won't able to make the trip again for a few months. after lots of reading on hondatas website I'm going to attempt to tune my low speed fuel maps first. I'm not to comfortable messing with the ignition maps to be honest. my ignition maps are nothing like what i can find online. they set my dis timing a few ways trying to fix the problem i assume. I'm going to include a pic of where it is and if u look closely u can see where it was before which i think is pretty much center at 16degs? this is a turbo motor. anyone wanting to take a look at maps just pm me and i will email them over. since it is way rich I'm going to adjust the injector multiplier first then fine tune from there as hondata tells u to do so. here is to the questions...

if i leave the dis where it is at now and he changes it back to where it was will it mess up my fuel maps that i am about to adjust?

from evans tuning i read they tested skunk 2 pro 1 cams which is what i have and they say they have stock idle characteristics which makes me question why my idle is at 1400. turbohatchd16y7 told me to give it more timing at idle then adjust afr. question is how much.. i read people saying they like 20-22 degrees of timing. i found under idle parameters there is ignition controlled idle. low and high but doesn't say a whole lot about either. also if i give it a quick rev it dips below 800 where it wants to die then comes back up. id like to fix that too.

i do have my wide band wired into the ecu now its reading pretty close like within .2 but my afr bounces back and forth a lot at idle so i can't even dial it in with the voltage offset lol this is why I'm trying to fix the idle first.

here is a couple pics of timing,fuel, idle parameters tab, and the current setting on my distributor.

any help, advice, or tips is greatly appreciated!!

 

setting the distributor is very black and white. You pick a base timing value in the software (typically 16*) and you sync the distributor to that value. That
's it. There is no value or reason to play around with it or move it. The only reason I could see for having it be anything other than stock would be to line up to a crank pulley that has marks known to be off for some reason.

For example, if the base value in the software is 16* and your distributor is actually at 18*, you are adding 2* all the way across your tables. It can be tuned around, sure, but it's completely pointless and accomplishes nothing other than rendering your table numbers meaningless.

Both of those spark tables are a joke. You need this guy to explain to you exactly what his thought process is there, and take notes. If he makes his table like that without reason and/or can't explain himself, you need to walk. Is this a street tune or a dyno tune?

 

Exactly what i told him about the tables.

There was another thread here like 10 threads down that look almost the exact same. I link it in a bit

He has already 2 dyno tunes with this tuner. Idk how many hours but i assume not much

 

First: lock ignition (read this: https://www.hondata.com/help/smanage...tiontiming.htm) and sync your dizzy. That's the way to match the table timing with the real timing.

Please, upload your tune, so we can check everything. Pictures are limited to 0PSI boost tables. You need to set boost tables to show on the map.

 

...or at least use print screen or snipping tool on your computer. Photographs of the screen are terrible to try and see anything.