Hey honda-tech, it's been to long that I had my hands on something. Recently came across A deal I couldn't pass up, it's a JDM H23A vtec and M2B4 transmission and P13 ECU from JDM tech in Orlando Florida. It's actually the same swap I put in my buddy's 94 accord a few years ago. There's a few short posts about it in my previous build using a 94 EG hatchback and fully built H23 vtec.
You can see all that here at this link. https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude...build-3114622/

This will be done in segments, first the swap, then some suspension and some body work mixed in somewhere. After all that, The H23A will stay stock internally and I will be starting a G23 build with a H22A head and F23X block utilizing K series pistons and rods. It will be a mild compression turbo build probably starting that in spring. For now it's going to be just the conversion.













Just like my last build and all the ones before that this will be as detailed as possible and images will be posted of the progress. If anyone has info to add or something I may not know about this swap please don't hesitate to chime in. The swap should be done by spring and the build by this time next year at worst.

More to come in the next few weeks.

 

Maybe off topic. But did you choose the H23 or was that just was available?

I have been looking at H series motors, haven't quite figured out which one is the best for my application.

 

It's a matter of preference and what you are looking to accomplish. Wikipedia has all the info you will need on these engines. It's much easier to figure out what someone doesn't like versus what they do like. All honda motors are a fantastic choice. I chose the H23A because I view it as the temple of the H/F series motors. Any of the motors are readily available to purchase.

 

Why do you think it is the temple?

So what wiki doesn't tell you is stuff like, a 98 spec B18CR is a great NA engine, but a time bomb with FI. I was just wondering if there is anything like that in your consideration.

 

The H23A does have a unique rod compared to any other H or F series engine. It's a bolt on the rod cap instead of cap screw style. Some say this is stronger. The rod is shorter making h22a type s pistons a simple swap. H23A was in accord sir wagons so they are robust in a sense. I like the thought of using a H22A p13 ecu on the H23A, maps are completely different I believe because I think these come with auto transmissions only (not sure) so the same engine one with more displacement but using the same maps... I believe on a stock/mod setup the H23A will out preform the H22A and so on.

There are many factors to consider, I like the uniqueness of the H23A and the rarity.

 

with bolt ons and tuning an h23a can put down over 200whp. It wont make that on a stock ecu (with a p13 i/h/e i made 170-175whp without fail and multiple h22a's), the h23a is probably the best of the H and F series. I have seen as high as 225whp with a good tune, i/h/e only. Even on the p13 and leaving power in the engine the car will still be a beast, my h22a hatch ran 13.7s on big heavy 17s and low pro street tires, switching to slicks and lightweight 13s took .8 sec off the 1/8 mile which would have put me just into 12s on an h22a with bolt ons only...in a crx its going to be a beast.

 

Yeah my built H23 vtec before this was in an eg hatch. I got to drive it built and stock. I have had a bunch of H/F series motors and this is by far my favorite variation. My eg was very very light. I'm keeping the crx fully equipped, a/c and all. I've already got a deal set with ESP I haven't totally committed yet but it looks as if his products will be being used in this build.

 

OP- have you looked into the KTuned or Hybrid Racing shifter? They have available brackets for conversion on the transmissions now.

Here is a thread about the H23A.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude...tions-2341343/

 

Yeah I was looking at that and really like it. I think there was another company that makes them too and I wasn't sure if it would work with the tranny bracket and k tuned cables. Only because the price seems or realistic. I did watch a few videos on YouTube about them. Seems like a really good product. Definitely something I am considering.

It would be nice if anyone that is actually running them on a H/F series to tell us about it and how it feels with a different bracket.

 

Home | fcsrace

Any first hand experience with there products?

 

Out of the past 17 years with Hondas I have never heard of em. Doesn't mean they suck or are junk...but me...unless i was local I would not mess with them unless you personally know someone in real life with their parts.

 

Yeah... I hope someone pops there head in with some details. The K member and tubular road race FLCA
Are sex... someone has to be using there stuff for them to have them for sale.

 

NRGtech, WhitfieldMFG and FCS Race all created a tubular sub-frame. Why do you need those?

Hybrid racing shifter bracket-
https://honda-tech.com/hybrid-engine...-swap-2973373/

Ktuned bracket-
H/F Series Shifter Cable/Bracket

Hybrid version-
F/H-Series Transmission to K-Series Shifter & Cable Conversion Bracket Hybrid Racing

 

I'm attempting to cut weight, discreetly as possible.

 

Do you have a traction bar? Three words. Innovative Competition bar.

 

The point I'm at now all I have is the swap. I'm trying to pick out suspension items now. I'm going with ESP mounts and traction bar. If you look at the FLCA it doesn't look to have the provisions for the stock radius rods... meaning to me I don't think the innovative competition bar will work with them... I'm trying to consider everything as a whole.

 

Products | PCI Racing

Definitely grabbing some suspension and aero parts from these fine people.

 

Skip the ESP traction bar. Go with the Innovative and either a Hasport or Innovative on the mounts as well.

Do a search for chrisb on here regarding traction bars and the EF chassis. He owns Kingpinmachine.

I don't even think ESP is currently operating. He is an active member here on H-T though. Out of curiosity why ESP on mounts?

I have the PCI LCA bearings and will probably purchase there side skirts, tow hooks and UCA bearing kit. Eventually they will release a camber kit, but hasn't happened yet.

 

May I ask you why not ESP?

The gentleman there were very detailed when I was messaging him. Even offered to make a one off A/C mount because Florida summers are not to be fucked with... mostly all year really it's 78 where I'm at now in December. ...at 1:20 am. Anyway, none of his products look cheap. All the welds look like they won't break down the road. Also his hands on and passion for my swap into these 88-91 chassis. And his R&D is track,street,autocross his products just like the others are proven and competitive. In my eyes I see his products right there with the other top developers, I just like the hands on family ran working man business there all made to order (not a production line) and from what I read hand welded by his father.

I looked up Chrisb. Didn't find to much but a few threads.

How are the PCI bearings? I'm going for the full kit (front,skirts,diffuser, wing) definitely there trailing arm bushings.

 

The ESP website says they are not operational but MAY have a few items...i have heard they are quality products, but i would be concerned if they are not in full operation having spare parts etc.

 

Damn I didn't think about that, his products don't look like they will ever need repairs. So it might be years before I and if I ever needed to exchange for a malfunction in the product.

Okay... i was shocked when I found out a/c is a PITA with this swap. I need to weigh my opinions.

I'm new to this swap in this chassis, from what I have read and understand is the headlight housing gets in the way of the Alternators stock position. So they move the Alternator to the a/c compressor position.

I need it to work. When these swaps were being stuffed into this chassis back in the day. I was reading they swap the front core support / radiator and headlights from a JDM SIR and that creates enough room for the Alternator in the stock location. ?? Myth? Plausible?

 

So that's the back of the SIR vs a USDM. I see why they say use the SIR front to make room for
The Alternator.... seems like extra work but if I want a/c that's on me. Anybody have info to add? The last thing I'm worried about is after I do it all, will there be enough clearance with X mounts.

 

To this day I've still yet to see a successful H22 swap into an 88-91 Civic/CRX that retains AC.

 

I know a few of us are 80's babys... someone has to remember seeing a SIR support and headlights with the Alternator in the stock location. ..? Forget if it has a/c or not. I just want to know if the Alternator really fits after.

If this works. All you do is use innovatives EK h22 a/c bracket and compressor from a EK and the stock lines should work.

Just need a little insight.

 

I've seen it done that way, the frame of the headlight area was still notched to clear the alternator. That particular car didn't have AC though, said there wasn't enough room underneath or maybe didn't feel it was worth the work to cut out a pocket.