94 Civic starter issues
Hey Everyone!
Basic Info on the car:
1994 Honda Civic DX Sedan with B18C1 and M/T conversion
For a few weeks now I have not been able go get my car to start. When the issue began I was able to start the car by bumping the ignition until the starter engaged, but now that won't work. Turning the key causes no activity from the starter.
New battery, tested and strong.
Fuses checked, none blown.
New starter, tested and strong.
Light tested ignition switch, all lights get power at different steps of the key turn.
Can start the car directly at the starter with a couple screw drivers and a hand on the throttle to help it through the cold start.
I'm thinking it would be a starter cut relay issue, but I can't locate it on my car. I've seen a few diagrams floating around, but I'm not sure if placement is different for A/T and M/T chassis vehicles.
The car is also equipped with a Viper Responder LC3, but the alarm seems to be functioning properly, so I don't think it's causing the issue, but I'm not too savvy with alarms.
All PGMFI components are in working order: fuel pump, relay, etc.
Any help is appreciated. This is my DD, so getting my uncle his car back and the Civic running again is a major priority.
Basic Info on the car:
1994 Honda Civic DX Sedan with B18C1 and M/T conversion
For a few weeks now I have not been able go get my car to start. When the issue began I was able to start the car by bumping the ignition until the starter engaged, but now that won't work. Turning the key causes no activity from the starter.
New battery, tested and strong.
Fuses checked, none blown.
New starter, tested and strong.
Light tested ignition switch, all lights get power at different steps of the key turn.
Can start the car directly at the starter with a couple screw drivers and a hand on the throttle to help it through the cold start.
I'm thinking it would be a starter cut relay issue, but I can't locate it on my car. I've seen a few diagrams floating around, but I'm not sure if placement is different for A/T and M/T chassis vehicles.
The car is also equipped with a Viper Responder LC3, but the alarm seems to be functioning properly, so I don't think it's causing the issue, but I'm not too savvy with alarms.
All PGMFI components are in working order: fuel pump, relay, etc.
Any help is appreciated. This is my DD, so getting my uncle his car back and the Civic running again is a major priority.
When did the problem start, and what was the last thing done prior to the problem occurring?
You appear to have no power on the starter S terminal wire, which is the small spade clip wire on the starter motor that runs directly to the ignition switch. Should be BLK/YEL in color. When you crank the key, there should be 12V on this wire, if not, the starter will never engage and start the car. The two biggest culprits are the clutch pedal switch, and the ignition switch internal contacts. You will need a wiring diagram of the start S terminal connection to diagnose the failure. If this was an AT to MT swap, you may have additional problems with center console wiring to start the car.
Since your car is a swap, its hard to say what it really is, but if it was done correctly, and with precision, I would start with the ignition switch itself. These are prone to wearing out and causing no-crank issues, especially when cold.
You appear to have no power on the starter S terminal wire, which is the small spade clip wire on the starter motor that runs directly to the ignition switch. Should be BLK/YEL in color. When you crank the key, there should be 12V on this wire, if not, the starter will never engage and start the car. The two biggest culprits are the clutch pedal switch, and the ignition switch internal contacts. You will need a wiring diagram of the start S terminal connection to diagnose the failure. If this was an AT to MT swap, you may have additional problems with center console wiring to start the car.
Since your car is a swap, its hard to say what it really is, but if it was done correctly, and with precision, I would start with the ignition switch itself. These are prone to wearing out and causing no-crank issues, especially when cold.
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