Ok guys, looking for some help/insight here.
I have searched and unfortunately cant come up with a solid answer.
Seems like the solution was something different for everyone.

To give a quick run down.
I just bought a ls/v swapped ek.

Would randomly shut off/lose ignition.
Turned out to be a bad jumper harness going from an obd2 dizzy to obd1 harness.
I chopped out all the connectors and soldered the dizzy directly to the harness.
Problem solved!!!

However before I got to that point, I replaced the ICM and the Coil.
I had no clue if I had a b16 dizzy, or a b18c dizzy.
Visually I could tell it was not an ls dizzy as all 3 legs were intact and not shaved, so I knew it was one of the two.

When I was replacing the ICM I bought one for a b16 however it was very different looking, completely wrong shape etc.
So I went to buy a gsr ICM and of course that was $150 and no one had in stock, so I bought one for an LS, which visually looked identical and mounted fine and everything, this was before I dug into the harness so my problem still persisted, at that point I replaced the coil, which I also bought for an LS.


So now, my car runs mostly fine and doesn't die anymore.
BUT when the engine has been running awhile and gets warm it has this little misfire around 2500 rpm.
Only does this when warm which leads me to believe it is ignition related because most electrical starts to perform/break down/ etc after it gets hot.
A bad fuel pump or fuel issue would be a consistent issue including an injector issue. Also bad/clogged injectors would happen through out the power band.
Ive had my cap and rotor off obviously and visually they seem fine/clean connections not warn/ etc. Plugs I have yet to pull out but my car runs rich as it is being a built ls/v on a base tune....


Anyways, so the question I am asking (which I am pretty sure I already know the answer to..)
is, would putting a LS ICM and coil in a gsr dizzy create this kind of issue/break down when warm?
My thought process in using LS stuff was people SAY you can use an ls dizzy just fine on an ls/v... so I would have guessed using the internals of them would also be fine...
But that kind of logic seems flawed when they do not share the same part # for the ICM and Coil right?
If they were directly interchangeable wouldn't they just be the same part?
Thats why I am thinking I already know the answer to this question.
At this rate I am about to just buy a whole new dizzy online and not have to mess with any of this **** anymore. lol.

I do still have the coil I pulled out of the dizzy which could have been working just fine...

Thoughts? help? insight?

 

well I'm trying to search for a gsr icm now and when I look up an obd2 gsr icm it doesn't look right either.... dammit

buying an ls/v with out knowing what the **** they built it with has been a major pain in my ***.

 

so it appears that the only dizzy ICM that matches what mine looks like is an OBD1 b18x dizzy.
When I search for OBD1 GSR and LS share the same part number for the ICM
and both OBD1 and OBD2 gsr dizzies share the same ignition coil...

So now I am really stumped.
It appears my internals are right.
And I guess I have an obd1 dizzy on a b16 pr3-3 head. Is that an issue?

 

So now I am thinking either I have a bad wire/ground something that deteriorates when warm.
Or my entire dizzy is going out, even with new internals????

Can the entire dizzy develop an issue like this, I thought the dizzy was basically mechanical minus the icm/coil. and those are both new.... so I am lost.

 

For anyone following this I think I narrowed down a few things. When the engine gets to temp is not when it starts so I dont believe its related to open/close loop ignition/cam timing.
I also dont think its related to the o2 sensor as again this only happens when things get "hot" not related to engine temp but more so just overall heat.
So im still thinking ignition which narrows it down to plugs/wires/cap and rotor and still potentially could be the dizzy. But has a brand new icm and coil. So im guessing ill start with plugs and wires.
Any insight helps. Thanks guys

 

Or just get rid of all that stuff so it can't keep failing and run coil on plug. Remove coil, igniter, rotor, wires. Install cap back on and solder up some connections either at distributor or at ECU (your pick) and then crank car and never look back. This is of course assuming your problem is the distributor. See my sig for details.

 

that is an excellent idea, lol.

 

hmmm any thoughts on a failing alternator being a culprit?