F22b2 turbo or f20b turbo
Alright people im considering a f20b swap at tax time and a t3t4 .63ar garret turbo, but was wondering if I'd be better off building a f22b2 and using the same turbo or .80 ar one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any input on this would help me. I have done a lot of research and havent found much.
F22 would give you more torque with the longer stroke.
F18/20/22 engines just use different stroke with the same bore.
You may be able to attain more peak HP with a higher rpm with the F20, but the F22 will give you more torque throughout the range. F20 you may be able to rev higher and gain more peak HP.
This all depends on what the plans for the vehicle are, and what transmission you will end up using, F/H engines have a variety of gear ratios to choose from.
F18/20/22 engines just use different stroke with the same bore.
You may be able to attain more peak HP with a higher rpm with the F20, but the F22 will give you more torque throughout the range. F20 you may be able to rev higher and gain more peak HP.
This all depends on what the plans for the vehicle are, and what transmission you will end up using, F/H engines have a variety of gear ratios to choose from.
Its gonna be my dd along with weekend toy. Its an auto car now but will be 5 speed but im leaning towards a middle of the road trans. I want something thats gonna work well for accelerating and for highway.
I've been on both sides of the fence and Mad_Mike pretty much hit the nail on the head.
OP, there is a ton of info out there so obviously you haven't researched that much. With the info you posted about turbos, it's pretty obvious that you don't really know much about them at all. I would highly recommend doing some real leg work when it comes to research and looking into what makes a good, reliable, streetable setup instead of going with the mindset that AR makes all the difference and bigger may or may not be better.
Let's assume you're talking about the JDM F20B DOHC engine and compare it with the F22. Both theoretically turbo'd as you stated in the original post. Just the basics.
One, there are two versions of the JDM F20B DOHC. The automatic and the manual version. The automatic version can be used in a 5 speed car BUT it has less aggressive cams, intake and throttlebody than the manual counterpart which is why the automatic was rated at 180hp factory, and the manual version is rated at 200hp from the factory. The automatic uses standard JDM H22 cams, to the manuals Type-S cams. The automatic has a 58mm(IIRC) throttle body, to the manuals 64mm(again, not sure on exact measurements.). The cams and other things make the manual version leaps and bounds better at delivering power. The F20B is designed to be a high revving motor anyway so the manual version will have no issues easily revving to 8k+rpm and making power the whole way, assuming you have a good flowing turbo manifold and larger AR turbine housing to let the motor actually breathe. The Type-S cams are an aggressive naturally aspirated set so naturally they have a fair amount of overlap which is actually bad for turbo setups and combined with the 11:1 static compression of the F20B, can cause rapid detonation with a subpar tune. The F20B also has a beefier bottom end than the F22 - with a lighter crank, rod bolts, redesigned rods, etc. The valvetrain is also superior to the F22, allowing it to rev higher more reliably.
Now, let's go back to the F22. I boosted these for years. There are really only two advantages nowadays to running one of these over a really nice flowing engine like the F20B or it's H series brothers. Those are price and low end torque. The F22 will make tons of low end torque due to the longer stroke and cam design. However, they completely struggle to make power above 5500rpm without a combination of a good camshaft/valvetrain upgrade, intake manifold swap and porting. They were just never designed to be revved high in stock form and suffer. It's an economical engine designed for dependability and not overall power. They can be quick, but will require much more boost to make a comparable power number to the DOHC VTEC engines. They are cheap to replace though and are much more forgiving to tune. They don't like to rev, don't flow particularly well and there isn't a lot of aftermarket support for them.
With that said, the manual F20B sticks out as the clear choice for me but it depends on your usage of your car and what you think is fun. You can make an F22 turbo setup fun and quick but a similar F20B setup will make more power, easier and be more fun to drive in my opinion.
As for the trans, you can kill two birds with one stone if you go the F20B route. Full manual F20B swaps nowadays are going for ~$1600. They come with a T2T4 manual transmission which also comes with an LSD from the factory. The gear ratios are just about perfectly in the middle between the longer F22 trans and the shorter USDM H22 trans. A USDM alternative transmission with similar ratios would be the H23 trans but they do not come with LSD.
Whatever you do, READ and RESEARCH. Don't expect to be spoonfed by everyone. I just did you a favor by sharing some of my knowledge. Whatever direction you go; Buy GOOD, QUALITY parts and get a GOOD tune so that you can have a nice, reliable setup that will last you for years.
OP, there is a ton of info out there so obviously you haven't researched that much. With the info you posted about turbos, it's pretty obvious that you don't really know much about them at all. I would highly recommend doing some real leg work when it comes to research and looking into what makes a good, reliable, streetable setup instead of going with the mindset that AR makes all the difference and bigger may or may not be better.
Let's assume you're talking about the JDM F20B DOHC engine and compare it with the F22. Both theoretically turbo'd as you stated in the original post. Just the basics.
One, there are two versions of the JDM F20B DOHC. The automatic and the manual version. The automatic version can be used in a 5 speed car BUT it has less aggressive cams, intake and throttlebody than the manual counterpart which is why the automatic was rated at 180hp factory, and the manual version is rated at 200hp from the factory. The automatic uses standard JDM H22 cams, to the manuals Type-S cams. The automatic has a 58mm(IIRC) throttle body, to the manuals 64mm(again, not sure on exact measurements.). The cams and other things make the manual version leaps and bounds better at delivering power. The F20B is designed to be a high revving motor anyway so the manual version will have no issues easily revving to 8k+rpm and making power the whole way, assuming you have a good flowing turbo manifold and larger AR turbine housing to let the motor actually breathe. The Type-S cams are an aggressive naturally aspirated set so naturally they have a fair amount of overlap which is actually bad for turbo setups and combined with the 11:1 static compression of the F20B, can cause rapid detonation with a subpar tune. The F20B also has a beefier bottom end than the F22 - with a lighter crank, rod bolts, redesigned rods, etc. The valvetrain is also superior to the F22, allowing it to rev higher more reliably.
Now, let's go back to the F22. I boosted these for years. There are really only two advantages nowadays to running one of these over a really nice flowing engine like the F20B or it's H series brothers. Those are price and low end torque. The F22 will make tons of low end torque due to the longer stroke and cam design. However, they completely struggle to make power above 5500rpm without a combination of a good camshaft/valvetrain upgrade, intake manifold swap and porting. They were just never designed to be revved high in stock form and suffer. It's an economical engine designed for dependability and not overall power. They can be quick, but will require much more boost to make a comparable power number to the DOHC VTEC engines. They are cheap to replace though and are much more forgiving to tune. They don't like to rev, don't flow particularly well and there isn't a lot of aftermarket support for them.
With that said, the manual F20B sticks out as the clear choice for me but it depends on your usage of your car and what you think is fun. You can make an F22 turbo setup fun and quick but a similar F20B setup will make more power, easier and be more fun to drive in my opinion.
As for the trans, you can kill two birds with one stone if you go the F20B route. Full manual F20B swaps nowadays are going for ~$1600. They come with a T2T4 manual transmission which also comes with an LSD from the factory. The gear ratios are just about perfectly in the middle between the longer F22 trans and the shorter USDM H22 trans. A USDM alternative transmission with similar ratios would be the H23 trans but they do not come with LSD.
Whatever you do, READ and RESEARCH. Don't expect to be spoonfed by everyone. I just did you a favor by sharing some of my knowledge. Whatever direction you go; Buy GOOD, QUALITY parts and get a GOOD tune so that you can have a nice, reliable setup that will last you for years.
Also I'm not sure how much research you have done on the Auto to manual swap but I've done it with help on my 94 accord ex and it's no cake walk... Make sure you look into that, there are full write ups on this site and others to help you with it... I had someone who has done plenty of engine swaps and also had just done auto to manual on my brothers 95 civic EX and he said the accord was much more difficult than the civic
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