I am trying to replace my 95 Civic brake booster... I took off all the bolts and the cotter pin. tried to pull out the booster from the firewall, it comes loose, but is then stuck. The space under the hood seems to small to get the part that goes through the firewall out, along with lifting the booster out.

The new booster doesn't have the end part on it that fits onto the brake pedal. It seems like if I could take that part off, the rest of it might come out of the engine bay. I tried turning it, but the whole shaft turns, it won't just come off the bolt.

Any suggestions???

thanks in advance!

 

Booster is right up next to metal wall of engine area and the end of bolt is still inside car/ through hole in firewall.<br/>





Close up of part that is unhooked from brake pedal, but still inside car / on the wrong side of firewall.

 

Apply vice grips to shaft, apply box wrench to nut/fitting, remove. Done.

 

You should be able to get the booster out without removing the shaft, its a pain in the *** to get the nut loose while in the car. I recent replaced my stock booster with a bigger ABS booster and I was able to maneuver both in and out of the firewall. If I remember correctly you have to angle it out towards the intake manifold and make sure you get the throttle cable and FPR hose bracket out the way.

 

Got it out! and new one in. But car doesn't crank.
Had to remove hose bracket, use vise grips & wrench on shaft/nut, plus had to undo lines on master cylinder to move it even further out of the way.
I was hoping to not have to remove the lines, because now I need to bleed the brakes.
: (
Meanwhile the battery went dead, had to get new battery charger cuz the old one had unknowingly died.
Now battery is charged, and car still won't crank.
Maybe I inadvertently disconnected some wire under dash while struggling with cotter pin near brake pedal?
(Since cotter pin is in such a ridiculous place, took cover off of steering column, and clipped head of cotter pin with a ****/cutting pliers. Then was able to pull the remaining part of cotter pin out with pliers.)
or maybe there's some safety something that was triggered by changing booster????
any ideas? Door light won't even come on.

 

The lights won't come on when you open the door? Check your battery connections.

 

Odd coincidence - the battery died at the same time... New battery, car turns on perfectly! Now to bleed the brakes... whenever the rain stops.

 

The brake pedal is not high enough, so the brake lights stay on... which drains the battery.
The idle is also too high. I think I pulled the idle wires out of whack while struggling to get the booster out....? maybe.
When on a slight incline, the idle went extremely high, and the car wouldn't move... had to tow it home. ugh. now it's raining some more, so I can't fiddle with it. : (

 

Find the downloadable 92-95 Civic service manual.

 

Is there a free downloadable service manual? If so, I've never found it.
I have the Hayne manual, it's good, but does leave out some essential elements.
I ended up taking booster out again, and turning the pushrod with pliers about 1 3/4 turns clockwise. (I found it too difficult in the small space by the pedal to turn it)
I had bought the booster and master cylinder from O'Reillys, and the pushrod going to the brake pedal was slightly shorter than the old one, which was the cause, I believe, of the back lights staying on.
Even within one week, with the high humidity in this area, the new booster has rust spots. Where as the old one has a slick coating that helped prevent rust.

 

Try Google searches. It's out there.

 

Link not allowed
easy to find... google is your friend..