I recently bought an 95 Del Sol Si with 160k miles and a 5 speed. When I bought it this problem wasn't apparent so I guess the seller slipped one on me. I have read this fine site for quite a few hours learning about issues and trying to find a solution to my problem with no luck so I thought I would ask.

The problem with the car is that when it is first started and the idle is at 1500 or so (expected), the car cannot be put into any gear when I push in the clutch. The gear lever just won't allow me to move it into any gear. Trying reverse grinds badly and it just won't go into any other gear (1-5). When the idle settles down to under 1000, then the car will shift reasonably ok though downshifting to 1st when stopped is a bit dicey.

Things I have tried so far with no success:
- Pumping the clutch pedal makes no difference

- Bled the clutch system as well (got 16oz of nasty brown fluid)

- Changed the tranny fluid (I chose GM Synchromesh Friction Modified 88900399, which I understand has its fans and un-fans on this site)

- Adjusted the clutch freeplay using the excellent procedure documented on this site

- Checked that the master and slave cylinders weren't leaking. The slave has quite a bit of surface rust but I saw no leaks

None of these steps made any difference to the above behavior. What do you guys think?

 

With the car turned off, does it shift freely between gears? If it does, put it in second and start the car. Does it lurch forward?

 

bad clutch...

 

Almost positively yes, but an answer to my last two questions will remove "almost" from the equation.

 

The car shifts like butter when it is off; it never shifts this good when it is running. I tried the 2nd gear experiment two ways:

* when I started the car in second with the clutch out, it lurched and then stalled (I also pulled back from the starter position)

* when I started the car with the clutch in, it started up fine (I kept the clutch in throughout)

Also, it appears that the clutch engagement point is pretty high on the pedal, probably near the top 20% of the travel.

 

And if you start your car in second gear, foot on the clutch, can you gradually take your foot off the clutch and give it gas to make the car drive?

 

I tried that earlier as well. It took some gas on the pedal but the car was able to move along without stalling when I launched it in second gear.

 

You did this with the clutch pedal still down, as in foot on the clutch pedal?

 

I believe that is correct - I put the car in second gear with the clutch down/disengaged, started the car (half expected it to move then), and was able to let off the clutch pedal gradually while pushing on the throttle to get the car moving. It came very close to stalling but got going soon enough. I will try it again with the car in high idle state this evening.

 

Also, the car makes a whirring sound when launching from first gear. Reading around here, it sounds like this could be the input shaft bearing. Any ideas please?

 

If the input shaft bearing has never been replaced the whirring is most likely a worn input shaft bearing as this was a problem with these transmissions when they reach higher mileage. Usually you can hear the bearing making noise in neutral and it will go away when you step on the clutch and the input shaft stops spinning. Although it sounds like your clutch isn't working properly, so you may still have the noise regardless of the pedal position since it would appear your input shaft isn't slowing down enough to get into gear.

 

You are right - the ability to put it in gear until the rpms < 1000 appear to indicate some form of a disengagement problem.

I don't notice the noise in neutral though. It seems to occur when I launch the car in first gear and engage the clutch - it sounds almost like a fan starting up but then dies when I shift into second. I don't notice it in other gears.

 

You're describing a bad input shaft bearing noise. Try replacing the clutch to fix the gear engagement issue, as this is your next cheapest fix. An exedy replacement from rockauto is like $100. If you are so inclined, the ISB can be replaced at the time since you'll have the trans out.

 

Thanks @B serious. I am replacing the master and slave clutch cylinders this weekend as that seems to be a pretty easy job.

I have ordered an Exedy clutch kit with flywheel and hopefully it will be here soon. After reading the many clutch replacement procedures on this site (some suggesting popping the balljoint and others saying it is not necessary), I am thinking an old guy like me working alone doesn't have much of a chance doing this myself so I suspect I am gonna have to go to a mechanic. They want 400 bucks just for the labor - still thinking about this.

I also read the procedures for replacing the ISB and I definitely don't want to try that. Buying a JDM transmission and selling mine seems to be one reasonable route and the closest replacement appears to be something that came off of a D16A. Just confirming if my understanding is correct on that.

Am I on the right track? I know I am throwing too many parts on this thing and with my luck, the darn car will probably blow the timing belt next (which the PO had assured me was also done at 120k) and make this all for naught . Hey, more parts for the rest of you to buy, right ?

 

If you're buying a JDM trans, make sure it is not a cable actuated clutch trans. You need what's called a "hydro" or "hydraulic" trans.

However...it shouldn't be much more parts and labor cost to just have the shop refresh the trans bearings on your existing trans while it is out of the car. The Si trans is the best geared D series trans. You may lose that gearing depending on which JDM trans you buy.

 

I found a used s20 in Austin so I hope things work out there - if it ends up being code B000 and not defective, I hope I will be set. This old car is basically getting a full drive system remake here . Many thanks to all of you for your superb advice.I will write back when the parts are replaced and hope it works out.

 

I will keep my original trans and might use it to learn how to replace the IBS now that the pressure is off. Should be fun hopefully.

 

Closing the loop here: it did turn out to be the ISB on the old transmission. I have the used transmission in the car now along with the Exedy clutch and flywheel. The mechanic says it no longer makes the noise so I hope I can enjoy this thing finally for a little while anyways.