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I just rebuilt my 2001 B18C integra gsr. It was miss firing on cylinder 1 &3. Turned out to be a burnt and cracked exhaust valve on #1. After putting engine back in it started, reved fine,but was running rough at idle (going up and down)and sounded like a misfire. the CEL codes showed (5) misses on all 4 and all missfire. I rechecked and adjusted the cams slightly according to the workshop manual.Now it wont start. I checked the all functions in the distributor and all checked out. If i take #1 plug out and crank the engine grounding the plug i get a few sparks then no sparks. Its that normal? All cars I usually work on have limited electonics on them and will fire a spark continiously.The only other variable I changed was I bought a used knock sensor as I broke the original taking the motor out. I assume if this was bad it would not cause the motor to not start. Any other ideas. This is a real pain after spending all that time on the rebuild. BTW-It has all stock parts in it.
I wish it was that simple. The dizzy cap and wires were new so I didn't touch them from before the rebuild. All set up correctly. I wish someone can tell me why I don't get a constant spark at the plug when testing it.
Make sure ALL of the grounds are clean and tight. Grounds can do crazy things.
What else have you tried? You found that the spark is the problem. Start checking everything associated.
So you have raw fuel on your spark plugs?
Crank position sensor hooked up?
I have no spark at the plugs. Checked all internal distributor functions and the check out. Checked all fuses. No fuel on plugs.
Checked all grounds. What else would cause no spark?
Checked and cleaned grounds also replaced igniter. Still no start. What a waste of $. I checked it prior to changing and was not getting 12 v to one connection. I pulled a plug and checked for spark and got one spark and then no spark at the plug. wtf. Any ideas ?
Also, if I put a test light on the negative terminal of the coil and to the battery and crank the engine-- the light blinks- doesn't that tell me all functions are good up until the spark exits the distributor?
I was thinking - the intake cam controls the distributor timing and the car ran but had misfire codes when I set the cams in the top photo. Then I reset the cams in the bottom photo and the car didn't start and no spark. Should I reset the cams in the top photo or is the bottom photo the way they should be. Thanks for any help.
I was thinking - the intake cam controls the distributor timing and the car ran but had misfire codes when I set the cams in the top photo. Then I reset the cams in the bottom photo and the car didn't start and no spark. Should I reset the cams in the top photo or is the bottom photo the way they should be. Thanks for any help.
SMDH!!!!
It should be set like the bottom one dude come on! top pic has timing way off!!!
lower pic has the gears set at TDC BUT did you confirm the crank was at TDC?? prolly why it wouldn't start..
Assembling a engine 101- make sure you know how to set the engines timing belt and set timing..
After going through the testing of the ICM I wasnt getting 12v to one terminal and determined that I needed to replace the ICM(igniter) . After replacing it the car won't start and would give one spark to the plug and then stop. After thinking about it for a few days and reading the workshop manual for the distributor , which is very good with the flow charts. One thing was to reset the ECM. I disconnected the battery terminals-put a jumper from pos to neg and let sit for a while. I recconected the terminals and the car started right away. It purs like a swiss watch.These cars have very sensitive electronics. Thanks for all for your input and help. When things go wrong your thought process sometimes gets out of whack.
After going through the testing of the ICM I wasnt getting 12v to one terminal and determined that I needed to replace the ICM(igniter) . After replacing it the car won't start and would give one spark to the plug and then stop. After thinking about it for a few days and reading the workshop manual for the distributor , which is very good with the flow charts. One thing was to reset the ECM. I disconnected the battery terminals-put a jumper from pos to neg and let sit for a while. I recconected the terminals and the car started right away. It purs like a swiss watch.These cars have very sensitive electronics. Thanks for all for your input and help. When things go wrong your thought process sometimes gets out of whack.
Yea if you dont clear the code the ecu thinks the problem still exsist.