My son just bought a 1996 Honda Accord 2.2L LX w/ 163k miles.

First couple of days it was hard to get started when it was cold. Cranked good but just wouldn't fire. Usually after the first start it would start no problem.

Then it seemed to get worse and got to the point where it wouldn't start at all.

Checked spark - good
Check fuel - good don't know the pressure but do know that fuel is being pumped.
Check compression - near or at 180 all cylinders.
New Cap, Rotor, and plugs where just installed

After I checked and replaced the ignition parts I was able to start it by cranking it long and pumping the throttle vigorously. Once it started the RPMs where surging to 1500 then dropping to 1000 over and over.

The next day my son was unable to get it to start.

My next test is going to test the MAP sensor.

Anything else that I should be looking for/at? I could really use some direction on what to check next.

Thanks,

Jim

 

If it were my car I would check the fuel pressure next.

 

Yeah I have to agree. I do know that the fuel will gush out if you open the test port and turn the key on, but I don't know the pressure.

I found the reason for the hunting idle and fixed that.

I started it again tonight, but it seemed as though it flooded and then I was able to start it. Ran great after that.

 

Thank you I will give this a try.

 

Last night I tested a few things:

Tested the MAP sensor - all looked good, ground, +5V, and applying vacuum changed the output value.

Also, sort of tested the IAC valve. Took the connector off and the RPMs dropped to around 450. Put it back on it the RPMs went up to somewhere around 750.

Decided to take the car to my house where I could spend more time working on it. Had to jump the car and crank and crank and crank. The final thing I did to get it to run was I help the accelerator to the floor and cranked it. It started to barely run, I waited a second then applied a little throttle and she began to purr. Idle was about 1100 RPM until it warmed up and then it idled down to about 800 and ran great. Turned it off and let it sit for a 10 minutes and tried it again and it started right up. Took it home and tried in the AM and it wouldn't start.

 

i really wonder why i even bother

 

Me either. Why do you even bother with useless posts like this?

 

Checked the ECT cold it showed 1 on my VOM and in boiling water it was 1.97xx and changing.

Still trying to find a fuel pressure tester that will work. Going to try Harbor Freight tonight.

 

Found a pressure test kit and tested the pressure.

Pressure jumped to 45 and then rested at about 42 or 43. Pressure increased when hose was disconnected.
with hose on and running it was right at 34/35.

I'm at a loss doesn't seem like it shouldn't run.

Cranked and cranked and it slowly came to life. Sort of started like it was running way too slow, waited a couple of seconds while it slowly turn and bounced around then I gave it a little gas and it ran perfectly. Shut it down and waited 15 seconds and it started like a new car.

So once it goes it goes and once it has sat for a longer period it won't start without major cranking, more than the battery can handle.

 

Is the gas fresh?

 

Yes just put it in the other day.

 

Started the car up over the weekend and drove it about 10 miles. Shut it down for 7 hours and after that it started right up. Then couldn't get it to start the next morning.

Idle is back to surging up and down...

 

Check valve in the fuel pump could be the problem. After car sits a while the fuel pressure will leak back into tank. Try turning the key to "ON", but don't crank the engine for a few minutes. If you can hear the fuel pump, it will make a different sound once the system is pressured up. If car starts right away, you found your problem. I can't tell you off the top of my head where the fuel pump is located - might be in the tank?

Good Luck.

Bob

 

an

Thanks for the reply Bob.

I have tried this a few times and you can hear the fuel pump turn on for a few seconds once the key is turn. The only thing I haven't tried is checking the pressure first thing in the morning.

 

Cleaned out the throttle body last night and also did the IAC while we were there.

Still not starting properly. Going to test the TPS tonight to see if it is within range.

 

.... did you find the problem?
You gas cap is the correct one right for your car?...learned that with my 98' one time.
Let us know.
Thanks!

 

If youre still having this starting issue...I would suspect the ECT sensor/circuit. This sensor controls engine fuel management until it warms up...then hands control over to the O2 sensor.

 

I've been having this same issue with a 1995 accord ex fb1.

Details are almost exactly like Silversteed -
1- after car sits for 5 - 6 hours in cool weather (below 60 seems to be the temperature Ive found that the car hates) it takes between 6 and 7 cranks to start. The colder, the more attempts. So far the worst has been 19 attempts on a morning where the temp was 35f.

2- After it does crank, i can immediately cut it off and crank it right back up first try.

3 -After it cranks, i can turn it off and let it sit for 2 or 3 hours in the cool weather and it will still crank back up 1st or 2nd try.

4 - Do not have the problem in warm temperature. Above 70f I can let the car sit for 24 hours and it will start right up on the first or 2nd try.

I can hear my fuel pump. So i tried listening to it for different sounds. There is no distinguishable difference in the sound the fuel pump makes when it wont crank as opposed to the times it will crank.

Things i've tried:
removed, cleaned, and checked injectors (ok)
Replaced timing belt and reset timing (ok)
Replaced rotor button and checked dizzy cap (ok)
Checked starter for voltage drops, etc (ok)
Checked fuel pump relay (appears ok)
Checked all vacuum hoses (ok)

Finally found my ECU plug (some previous idiot had shoved it up into the dashboard) and jumped it. The CEL coded me 21 (coolant temperature sensor).

Question time:
1 - Would the CTS cause this behavior?
2 - I can find 3 sensors on my rad system. 1 on the crank case behind the dizzy under the VTEC solenoid, another on the thermostat housing, and another under the dizzy. Which one of these is the CTS sensor the ECU is referring to?

Thanks, and keep the thread alive Silversteed. Maybe we have the same problem and can figure it out.

 

This is the sensor i was referring to. Engine coolant temp sensor. I believe it is under the distributor, screwed into the head. I can not remember if its three or two wire...I think its two wire. Anyway, you can either test it or just replace it. However, just make sure you get the correct one(Not the fan switch) the sensor you need uses varying resistance...to let the computer know what the coolant temp is.

 

I already told you what to test and how to test it. Instead you did something with your voltage meter. You coulda ruled out the ect as the cause 18 posts ago.

 

The computer I was on today at work wouldnt allow me to read quoted posts (its an old POS that doesnt work half the time) and your original post has been deleted I assume because even clicking on what was quoted by you doesnt take me to your post. But, I guess I didnt need to join this forum after all. I could've just used my omnipotence to know what you posted over a month ago on this forum before I found and joined it today and saved myself a month of diagnosing the problem because i would've known everything you know without ever needing to have you speak to me.
I can now see what was quoted by you on my home PC and will check that out. Thanks for the info, not so much for being a snob about it.

Thank you though Tim for being nice enough to answer my question about which sensor was the ECT and which was the fan switch. I was unsure of this.