I've got a 94 SI hatch,stock besides intake and exhaust and I've adjusted my timing as far as the distributor will turn,got a modified ECU from phearble.net and they said timing should be around 16. I cant get it any higher than around 12...took it to shop and they said same. It runs a bit rough at lower rpms so it does still need adj...

Anybody ever used drill/dremmel to make holes on distributor larger so timing can be adjusted further?

Just thought I'd ask before I did it to see if anybody had any tips....


THX!

 

Did you use a timing light and jumper for the service connector?

 

 

Yeah there's no reason why you should have to do that ever.

 

If you have one of those dialed timing guns just zero it out and follow the helms manual.

 

Check your mechanical timing.

 

Yep i used the paperclip jumper before we set it.....

I think that the shop put the timing belt on wrong, like teeth not properly aligned and just one off?

 

Sounds like it. Pull the upper timing cover and check it out.

 

how will I tell if the belt is not on right?

 

<p>You check the mechanical timing. &nbsp;This is what, the third time this is being said? &nbsp;Remove the upper timing cover, rotate the engine <strong>counterclockwise only</strong> to line up the crank's TDC mark. &nbsp;Now look at the cam to see if the TDC marks line up there. &nbsp;Simple as. &nbsp;If they don't, then you need to take it back to the shop that did the job and tell them to unfuck it.</p>

 

DON'T rotate the engine clockwise. When viewing the timing belt from the drivers side the belt should only be rotated COUNTER-clockwise by turning the crank pulley bolt. Turning it the wrong direction can cause it to jump time.

 

Jumping timing isn't really the concern there, its more about the bearings...

 

^ Care to elaborate? Never heard that one before.

 

Look at how your bearings are cut to sit.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/ba...ing_lube_2.jpg
That lovely notch in the bearing that is wedged into the other hunk of metal, is to prevent it from moving... spinning the opposite direction from designed is going to run the risk of loosening that bond; why take the risk of causing additional strain on your crank bearings (See: Spun bearings) and just rotate it the correct direction?

 

I know how the bearings are cut, I've just never heard of that being a concern when turning the engine over slowly by hand. Either way though, I think it's safe to say that it is a better idea to only turn it over in the direction it normally rotates. No arguments here.

 

 

<p></p><p>No, it has nothing to do with the bearings. &nbsp;It has everything to do with timing belt tension. &nbsp;Rotating the wrong direction will jack up the timing belt.</p><p><img src="http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/1540x2000/80-yx1o6yo_4f039fa86ef6f9250fbd0267b399f4218034e51a.j pg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

 

a rare miss by narc.

 

<p>I fixed myself </p>

 

its confusing when you're thinking about it. perspective when working is much different than typing.

 

Fixed it, my mechanic friend slid off timing belt without loosening tensioner and turned cam one tooth and slid it back on...it was a pain, but with gloves and 2 people we did it! Runs much better!!!!! Thanks guys!

 

It's almost like the 5 of us who all told you to check mechanical timing knew what we were talking about...