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The car is running great, for the first 15 minutes or so, then everything starts to go downhill, my ECT is getting too hot even with a new spal fan and aluminum radiator, Oil temp is peaking at about 245. Not sure where to go from here, any suggestions?
ECT got up to 240, It's really hard to monitor because either my ect sensor or sending unit seems to be going bad, the coolant temp will show 196 for like 5 minutes then all of a sudden jump to 200 or 240 whatever it may be.\
Edit: I just checked and the spal fan fuse blew, I think it's gonna need 5 amps more than OEM, so that's probably why the temps were higher, but still, it seems very high since I was mainly on the highway the whole time with lots of air.
Okay so it's a bit lower with the bigger fuse in there and the fan working properly, I let it idle and bubble for about 20 mins with the radiator cap off to make sure there were no bubbles, oil temp was at about 215 at idle, once I got on the gas a couple times it went up to about 230 though. I'm probably gonna just put full distilled water in there with a bottle of water wetter instead of this 50/50
Is this a fresh engine build or what? Can we get some more details on the history of what lead up to the complaints at hand?
It started happening after the rebuild, everything is pretty much new, top end, bottom end, cams, gears, forged rods pistons, just put new radiator in and spal fans, the coolant sending unit seems buggy, or at least somethimg is wrong, because the temps are not broadcasting correctly. The oil temp gauge will show 230 and coolant show 190? Theres no way the oil is 40-50 above the coolant, then the temps qill randomly catch up, show 230 and set the cel code.
It started happening after the rebuild, everything is pretty much new, top end, bottom end, cams, gears, forged rods pistons, just put new radiator in and spal fans, the coolant sending unit seems buggy, or at least somethimg is wrong, because the temps are not broadcasting correctly. The oil temp gauge will show 230 and coolant show 190? Theres no way the oil is 40-50 above the coolant, then the temps qill randomly catch up, show 230 and set the cel code.
How many miles have you put on the engine?
have you tried simply bleeding the cooling system?
Alright so I put a new thermostat(lower temp 170) in, put a new one of these in Radiator Fan Switch - 1AZMX00041 at 1A Auto.com, and just kept the old ECT sensor but cleaned it off real good(it was really gunked up, BAD.) Bled the coolant again, coolant is great now, doesn't go over 190 even when I spool it up and womp on it really hard, the oil temperature is the exact same though still. Peaked at 240 after a few runs, at idle it cooled down to 220.
Last edited by daboy155; Jul 31, 2015 at 06:57 PM.
You need to get that SPAL fan its own dedicated 30A relay and fuse. It pulls way more amps then the factory fan.
You can get away with the 40A fuse, but the relay is an additional feature that should be considered. Do not use the standard 30A fuse.
for the SPAL fan in 13" use part number 30102044. Those fit best.
Alright so the spal is great, it's not poping fuses anymore, coolant temps still good as I posted earlier, however honestly I'm not very impressed with the go autoworks fan(no hate, just my opinion), it's a 12" dual polarity fan, I had it in front of the condensor, to push through the radiator, cause I had no hope of fitting a fan on the radiator to pull due to my WG dump pipe. The fan says it is 1500 CFU but I find that hard to believe and it's not doing much, do you guys think a spal 12" pusher fan would be better? It says it's only like 1000 CFU's which is 500 less than go autoworks slimline fan claims, but spal is generally honest and even underrated their fans. Any opinions?
Relocated my battery to my trunk and put my oil cooler where the battery used to be, just waiting for the grey permetex on the fittings to cure since one was leaking slowly. I know people will probably say it will be useless there since it has no air flow, but the fan mounted to it is pretty strong, and I talked to a guy who is pushing 418 whp in his teg and he has it under the hood too(with a fan mounted to it as well) and he dropped 25 degrees on his oil temps, so I'll try it out at least and hope it works.
I was blown away with how much more cfms my spal has, but I have the 1630cfm 12"version 9there most baddass 12"), got from univparts.com they had the best prices for the SPAL's I found. It was still only about $110 shipped I believe
Alright so the spal is great, it's not poping fuses anymore, coolant temps still good as I posted earlier, however honestly I'm not very impressed with the go autoworks fan(no hate, just my opinion), it's a 12" dual polarity fan, I had it in front of the condensor, to push through the radiator, cause I had no hope of fitting a fan on the radiator to pull due to my WG dump pipe. The fan says it is 1500 CFU but I find that hard to believe and it's not doing much, do you guys think a spal 12" pusher fan would be better? It says it's only like 1000 CFU's which is 500 less than go autoworks slimline fan claims, but spal is generally honest and even underrated their fans. Any opinions?
Relocated my battery to my trunk and put my oil cooler where the battery used to be, just waiting for the grey permetex on the fittings to cure since one was leaking slowly. I know people will probably say it will be useless there since it has no air flow, but the fan mounted to it is pretty strong, and I talked to a guy who is pushing 418 whp in his teg and he has it under the hood too(with a fan mounted to it as well) and he dropped 25 degrees on his oil temps, so I'll try it out at least and hope it works.
What fittings are you putting RTV on? Did you reverse the fan blade or swap wires to get it to spin the other way?
Alright I will switch to the spal one for my pusher.
I am using RTV on the oil cooler hose to thermostat fitting. I had to get my own fittings cause the one that came with the thermostat were for like -6an. I just got some at home depot, one screws into the thermostat, the other screws into the fitting on the thermostat and connects the hose.
Okay so today has not been the best day for car work.
Long story short, jacked car up, to bleed coolant again, checked oil, saw it was low(cause it was on jack stands dumb me) filled it up, let it idle, blew a O ring on one of my fittings completely out cause the oil psi was so high due to so much oil. (oil started leaking slowly out of the fitting and dropping on the ground so I unscrewed it and saw the o-ring vanished)
I basically have no idea where it went, somewhere in the oil system, probably stuck in the sandwhich plate or the oil filter? What do you guys think, I strongly do not want to pull the sandwhich plate off, cause it took me 4 arms(a buddy and I) to get it on there.
Also: When I was taking the fitting off, I didn't notice the hose was getting VERY kinked up, it's -10an steel braided, do I need to replace the hose or will it be okay even though I squished it a lot.
It's for garden hose/pressure washer, I figured it would work but I should have rtv'd the o ring down tight first
Why the **** are you using GARDEN SUPPLIES for something like the oiling system of your car?!?!? On top of undoubtedly not being rated for the temperature of an engine, the rubber used is most likely NOT oil safe. And don't think that somehow rtv will magically bond it. Some rtv is oil resistant but not 100% and its NOT a glue. Get the right ******* fittings for ***** sake so you don't blow up the engine
BTW oil VOLUME will not increase oil pressure. Oil viscosity and temperature do. Unless you had so much oil in it that you were flooding the oil return line for the turbo, which would damage the seals since it can't drain properly.
You better find that oring. If it is in the oil lines you will probably blow up the engine if it blocks a critical path
I realize it's Monday and you have to go back to work emptying garbage cans but calm down a bit. The rtv I used is oil resistant after it cures and i used it not as glue, but to seal the o ring to prevent oil from flowing under it, which is what dislodged the other one. Oil doesn't degrade rubber, otherwise we'd all be using steel braided Teflon hose for oil pickup and return...
Still overheating after turbo install
