I'm thinking of cutting my hood and attaching a hood scoop, I have literally no where in my car to put the oil cooler I ordered(and it's the smallest sized one) it has a fan mounted to it, it's almost exactly the same size as the stock car battery, slightly smaller. I was thinking of relocating my battery to my trunk, putting the oil cooler there, and putting a hood scoop on and making some ducting to help cool the oil cooler.

Anyone ever put a hood scoop on an integra before? I'm thinking of just buying one of the subaru looking ones, cutting a hole and slappin it on there.

 

are you seriously that dead set on trolling, if you really need an oil cooler for your crazy turbo k20(sarcasm) cut the bumper and weld tabs to the rad support. But I bet you're N/A so mount it where your FMIC would go, or if you have some turbo set up mount it behind the IC.


you've given very poor details if this is a b-series vs K that makes a huge diff if your idea is feasible at all.

 

I have my FM intercooler in the way and a pusher fan in front of the condensor on the drive side, my radiator is aluminum racing radiator and fat so i have no room, believe me bro I'm not an idiot I have tried mounting this thing everywhere I can think of.

98 B18b1 GTX2867r

 

You wont have enough clearance with the hood closed to run ducts from a hood scoop to the battery mount. Besides, why do you need an external oil cooler?

How are you determining your current oil temps? I'm assuming you have already done this somehow...

What does your engine setup look like? Pics?

 

I have a heavy foot and my oil temps are getting too high, the oil pressure is dropping once it gets really hot too. I have a gauge hooked up to a sandwhich plate to determine oil temps, I have a in line oil thermostat(180) i'll be using too.

here are some pics, I was just mocking it up where the battery goes to see how it will fit. It's really messy in the engine bay since I'm working on it now.

 

I like it when people don't strip out all the creature comforts in the name of having a clean engine bay that people won't see 99% of the time. Did you manage to keep AC too or just PS?

 

I have both AC and power steering while making around 280 at the wheels right now on 13 pounds of boost with conservative 16 degrees timing, it's been a pain to keep it all but totally worth and it's a true daily driver.

 

Mount it above the intercooler piping on the passenger side almost right behind where the passenger signal light is, and make a duct from the signal light space to feed air to the cooler. Extend and re rout all the lines and it will be in a ideal spot. Those HKS bov are wack imo get a tial ect.

 

I see a spot right beside said fan, must get hot AF where you are if you need all that for sub 400wheel.

 

What are your oil temp readings?

What oil weight are you running?

I would examine your oil return and feed lines to make sure they're sized properly and routed correctly. If your return line isn't properly routed, oil could be taking too long to return to the oil pan, hence why you experience low pressure at the gauge. A setup like yours shouldn't need an oil cooler to run safe oil temps.

There's really no ideal place to mount that oil cooler in or around your engine bay. Mounting it where you suggested wont allow heat to escape anywhere even if you successfully route air through a hood scoop. Honestly, do you think there's a whole lot of room for ducting once you close your hood?

Mounting it in the front end somewhere would require you to fabricate a way to mount it and run oil lines somehow in an already crowded engine bay. Not to mention a way to direct air to the oil cooler?

 

check your lines..i honestly dont think you need an oil cooler..ive owned and seen many turbo cars;some pushing high boost and hp numbers and none of them had an aftermarket oil cooler

 

I am running rotella t6 5-40, the return line is not ideal, but there are no uphills, it's hard to make it work and keep PS/AC, but there is def no uphill. I only get lower oil pressure once the oil gets above 230, then it starts to thin out and the pressure drops. The hottest I've seen it was 245 after 3 pulls on the highway. It still gets up to around 215 just idling(with a high idle).

 

what oil?

 

Rotella 5-40 T6 synthetic

 

Alright so I put a new thermostat(lower temp 170) in, put a new one of these in Radiator Fan Switch - 1AZMX00041 at 1A Auto.com, and just kept the old ECT sensor but cleaned it off real good(it was really gunked up, BAD. Bled the coolant again, coolant is great now, doesn't go over 190 even when I spool it up and womp on it really hard, the oil temperature is the exact same though still. Peaked at 240 after a few runs, at idle it cooled down to 220.

 

Sounds like youre coking your oil @ above 230...

Can you show us a pic of your oil lines and how they're ran? Do you know what size hose you're running? Adding an oil cooler wont change a thing if your lines aren't right.

 

I'm running -6an for water and -10an for coolant, -3an for oil fed with a -3an inline filter and .035 oil restrictor.

Here is the best shots I could get, just jacked the car up and took them, if I had a lift it would be easier but hopefully you can see.

My oil return line hugs the downpipe and hotside piping and is the best route i could find, both the DP and hotside piping are heat wrapped and hi temp siliconed.

 

Thats a tough spot for your return line. There has to be a better way to run that. Maybe consider a different manifold?

For your oil feed, try running it unrestricted. You shouldn't need a restrictor for -3an line.

 

Okay so today has not been the best day for car work.

Long story short, jacked car up, to bleed coolant again, checked oil, saw it was low(cause it was on jack stands dumb me) filled it up, let it idle, blew a O ring on one of my fittings completely out cause the oil psi was so high due to so much oil. (oil started leaking slowly out of the fitting and dropping on the ground so I unscrewed it and saw the o-ring vanished)





I basically have no idea where it went, somewhere in the oil system, probably stuck in the sandwhich plate or the oil filter? What do you guys think, I strongly do not want to pull the sandwhich plate off, cause it took me 4 arms(a buddy and I) to get it on there.

Also: When I was taking the fitting off, I didn't notice the hose was getting VERY kinked up, it's -10an steel braided, do I need to replace the hose or will it be okay even though I squished it a lot.

O ring gone



what it should look like

 

Why are you continuously bleeding your coolant? Air wont be introduced into the system unless you're allowing it to enter somehow.

Regarding the o-ring, it's hard to say what happened to the o-ring. They dont normally get sucked through the connection they're mean't to seal. But definitely replace the line if it's been kinked.

You should really think about setting up your turbo differently. You'll reduce headaches and possibly save your engine from quitting on you. The cost of a different manifold and fittings is way cheaper than having to purchase a new motor.