Installing my turbo right now, two questions: Can my turbo oil drain line touch the downpipe? I figured the shortest route to my oil pan was squeezed between the downpipe and the oil pan, so it's hugging it.









Where should I tap into for my coolant lines for the turbo, I'd prefer not to have to weld anything cause I suck. Maybe Throttle body and IACV? Any way to make that work with this kit I already have?


What is this on the bottom of my radiator?



Thanks!

 

shorten the length of the drain lines to avoid contact with the DP. As for the radiator, that's connection to automatic transmission.

 

You can get the adapter that goes from the front drain plug on the front of the block to -6an male and then get whatever metric size to -6an to replace the radiator drain plug.

 

Okay so the upper water neck outlet on the head for the feed, and then I use the radiator drain for the return? Like the same hole I drain my coolant from on the radiator?

 

This is how mine was done. These are banjo water fittings though.







Correct. Just find the thread pitch and get whatever metric to -6an fitting will work. Just make sure it has a rubber oring or crush washer. In my case it was M12x1.5.

 

.

 

Well looks like I can't get to that plug on the block




So I'll just tap into here I think

 

I don't understand the picture that you have circled. Does that mean that the plug is filled? Because you need to use a large allen key in order to remove that freeze plug. You would then use a freeze plug adapter to be able to work with your coolant line.

Or you can do what you plan to do anyway which way is to go to the thermostat water neck. That's the old school way that I did it years ago.

Either way I must go to a - 6AN to fit your lines for the turbo. You then have to know what size and pitch is needed to fit the water jackets.

 

Well the compressor housing is in the way of that drain plug so I can't really use it or I ideally would. I just tapped a hole, looks like it will work.

 

That's fine. that's based upon the exhaust manifold you're using. Most don't try to account for the fact that you're using water lines.

What you have is good, just make sure you account for that crush washer.

 

Alright great thanks, should I screw that black fitting all the way in to the neck?

 

With the correct washer in it, yes, without over-tightening it

 

Your oil drain CANNOT touch the downpipe like that, it doesnt look like you have room to wrap the downpipe and put a sleeve on the drain line, can you go around the front?

 

Okay I tried to route it around the downpipe, will this work? Sorry the picture is at a weird angle, only way I could get it all.





Also: I can only get the coolant feed and drain(on the turbo) hand tight, I can't fit any tools in there, hopefully that will work.

 

Get that 90degree off of that oil drain flange before you destroy a very expensive turbocharger instantly.

Oh boy.. Glad you showed that drain on the turbo itself before starting the engine

 

That silver piece that is bolted into the 2 bolt flange on the turbo? It's not a 90 it's about a 30 degree that came with the kit, that no good?

 

Heres a better picture

 

Nope.. You'll leak instantly. The 90 degree lines are more difficult on closer quarter CHRAs like the ball bearing GTX like that . It's not easy. It's best with right-angled wrenches since AN wrenches can't fit.

This is why most use banjo style fittings instead of 90s that the go-autoworks kit use as a universal kit. Those only work on the CHRAs that are longer

 

Okay glad I asked haha I kinda figured, I think I'll pick up a 19mm ratcheting box wrench and use my grinder to thin the end out a bit, I just tested a regular 19 in there and can turn it a bit, with a ratcheting end it would be possible.

Did you see the 2 posts before your last one with pic of the 30ish degree nipple that goes into the drain flange i posted above for the drain? Is it okay?

 

30 degree is fine.. Saw the other pictures

 

But it appears the line possibly travels uphill where it attaches to the pan

 

You're right there is a slight uphill, I'll pull the line off again and cut it shorter

 

show me what restrictor you're using as well for this Ball-bearing Garrett

Make sure it is not this ****.. Or anything even remotely close.



You want these in brass or Steel..

-3AN .030" 7/16-24



-4AN .030" 7/16-24

 

I was under the impression I didn't need a restrictor with -3an line for the oil feed, do I need one?

 

Absolutely, especially if you're using a GTX2867R turbocharger. If you don't, consider that turbo a paper weight in no time!!

Those CHRAs use only about 22psi of oil pressure due to the fact that the bearings system is doing most of the work rather than the turbine shaft using oil splay to ride on a layer of oil. You'll blow right through the rear oil sealing ring without the correct one. There is a specific one you must use too. PLUS, you want to make sure that you stop any contaminated oil or debris that may clog the restrictor that's being used, so an inline oil filter is in order, especially for a GT series running a -3AN line

You've got a few more items to pick up.