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Installing my turbo right now, two questions: Can my turbo oil drain line touch the downpipe? I figured the shortest route to my oil pan was squeezed between the downpipe and the oil pan, so it's hugging it.
Where should I tap into for my coolant lines for the turbo, I'd prefer not to have to weld anything cause I suck. Maybe Throttle body and IACV? Any way to make that work with this kit I already have?
Installing my turbo right now, two questions: Can my turbo oil drain line touch the downpipe? I figured the shortest route to my oil pan was squeezed between the downpipe and the oil pan, so it's hugging it.
Where should I tap into for my coolant lines for the turbo, I'd prefer not to have to weld anything cause I suck. Maybe Throttle body and IACV? Any way to make that work with this kit I already have?
What is this on the bottom of my radiator?
Thanks!
You can get the adapter that goes from the front drain plug on the front of the block to -6an male and then get whatever metric size to -6an to replace the radiator drain plug.
You can get the adapter that goes from the front drain plug on the front of the block to -6an male and then get whatever metric size to -6an to replace the radiator drain plug.
Okay so the upper water neck outlet on the head for the feed, and then I use the radiator drain for the return? Like the same hole I drain my coolant from on the radiator?
Okay so the upper water neck outlet on the head for the feed
This is how mine was done. These are banjo water fittings though.
and then I use the radiator drain for the return? Like the same hole I drain my coolant from on the radiator?
Correct. Just find the thread pitch and get whatever metric to -6an fitting will work. Just make sure it has a rubber oring or crush washer. In my case it was M12x1.5.
I don't understand the picture that you have circled. Does that mean that the plug is filled? Because you need to use a large allen key in order to remove that freeze plug. You would then use a freeze plug adapter to be able to work with your coolant line.
Or you can do what you plan to do anyway which way is to go to the thermostat water neck. That's the old school way that I did it years ago.
Either way I must go to a - 6AN to fit your lines for the turbo. You then have to know what size and pitch is needed to fit the water jackets.
I don't understand the picture that you have circled. Does that mean that the plug is filled? Because you need to use a large allen key in order to remove that freeze plug. You would then use a freeze plug adapter to be able to work with your coolant line.
Or you can do what you plan to do anyway which way is to go to the thermostat water neck. That's the old school way that I did it years ago.
Either way I must go to a - 6AN to fit your lines for the turbo. You then have to know what size and pitch is needed to fit the water jackets.
Well the compressor housing is in the way of that drain plug so I can't really use it or I ideally would. I just tapped a hole, looks like it will work.
Your oil drain CANNOT touch the downpipe like that, it doesnt look like you have room to wrap the downpipe and put a sleeve on the drain line, can you go around the front?
Okay I tried to route it around the downpipe, will this work? Sorry the picture is at a weird angle, only way I could get it all.
Also: I can only get the coolant feed and drain(on the turbo) hand tight, I can't fit any tools in there, hopefully that will work.
Nope.. You'll leak instantly. The 90 degree lines are more difficult on closer quarter CHRAs like the ball bearing GTX like that . It's not easy. It's best with right-angled wrenches since AN wrenches can't fit.
This is why most use banjo style fittings instead of 90s that the go-autoworks kit use as a universal kit. Those only work on the CHRAs that are longer
Nope.. You'll leak instantly. The 90 degree lines are more difficult on closer quarter CHRAs like the ball bearing GTX like that . It's not easy. It's best with right-angled wrenches since AN wrenches can't fit.
This is why most use banjo style fittings instead of 90s that the go-autoworks kit use as a universal kit. Those only work on the CHRAs that are longer
Okay glad I asked haha I kinda figured, I think I'll pick up a 19mm ratcheting box wrench and use my grinder to thin the end out a bit, I just tested a regular 19 in there and can turn it a bit, with a ratcheting end it would be possible.
Did you see the 2 posts before your last one with pic of the 30ish degree nipple that goes into the drain flange i posted above for the drain? Is it okay?
I was under the impression I didn't need a restrictor with -3an line for the oil feed, do I need one?
Absolutely, especially if you're using a GTX2867R turbocharger. If you don't, consider that turbo a paper weight in no time!!
Those CHRAs use only about 22psi of oil pressure due to the fact that the bearings system is doing most of the work rather than the turbine shaft using oil splay to ride on a layer of oil. You'll blow right through the rear oil sealing ring without the correct one. There is a specific one you must use too. PLUS, you want to make sure that you stop any contaminated oil or debris that may clog the restrictor that's being used, so an inline oil filter is in order, especially for a GT series running a -3AN line
07-13-2015, 06:06 PM
B18 Coolant and Oil Drain Lines
