So, when I was manually turning my engine while replacing the head gasket I began to hear a metal on metal scraping noise; I didn't think much of it at the time. I got the engine back together last night and turned it over hoping that everything would be great. It wasn't. I immediately heard the same metal on metal scraping noise (which I didn't hear before I opened the engine). I had my brother get a video of it and I will be posting it after my text. The engine also gave off a burning smell that was similar to an electrical burning scent. The previous owner, who owned the car for 15 years, could have possibly damaged the engine and filled it up with thick oil to get rid of the noise before selling it to me.

Here is what I did to the engine:
1) Head gasket with copper spray (Ishino)
2) Valve cover gasket (Ishino)
3) Spark plug tube gaskets (Ishino)
4) Oil pan gaket (OEM)
5) Distributer rotor (OEM)
6) Distributer cap (Beck and Arnley)
7) Spark plug wires (NGK)
8 ) Spark plugs (NGK)
9) Coolant (OEM)
10) Oil filter (K&N)
11) Oil (Valoline synthetic mix 5w-30)
12) Intake gasket (Fel Pro)
13) Exhaust manifold gasket (Fel Pro)
14) Adjusted valves (according to Heynes manual)
15) Fuel filter (Beck and Arnley)

Video:


http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Gr...mfm5x.mp4.html

 

I don't get a video even when I take the URL into a separate browser tab.

I know you put the motor, but the rest of the car details are technically required for any tech thread, car, year, make, model, trim, mods etc etc.

Also, some details might prove fruitful. Saying you have done all these things isn't the most helpful. For example, after you put the head gasket on, set your mechanical timing, timing belt tension. Did you rotate the rotating assembly at least two full revolutions to verify nothing was binding? This also assumes you did the proper torque sequence not only for the head bolts but also the rocker arm assembly and also did the proper torques.

Also, have you removed your accessory belts to rule out PS (if you have it) or AC (if you have it)?

Is the car and automatic or a manual? If manual, in all your work did you ever mess with the flywheel inspection plate?

You claim to have done a significant amount of work but have not provided any details as to how or exactly what you have done so there is no real clue as to where you might need to look. Let alone other details like car data to know exactly what the environment is that is being worked on.

Oh and that felpro intake manifold gasket sucks, just so you know. It seals up fine and dandy but later on when you have to replace it, it will be a real bitch to clean off as it's another graphite based gasket, OEM is a paper gasket and is much easier to deal with. I recommend it over the felpro.

 

Yes, my bad. 1993 Civic CX D15B8 214k miles stock. No AC, PS nor ABS. It's a 5 speed manual and I did remove to fly wheel plate to replace the oil pan gasket, I will check that tomorrow to make sure that it is not rubbing on the flywheel; thanks for tip! After adjusting the valves I torqued the lock nut and torqued the head in sequence and to spec. I manually spun the engine to make sure I won't run into a valve and I didn't. I did all the work according to my Heynes manual. I don't mind having to clean up the old gasket on my intake and head, I spent 8 hours cleaning up the old composite head gasket.

Here's the vid:
http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Gr...mfm5x.mp4.html