Reverse going in but not reversing???
So I have a JDM 96 ITR box with the 4.4FD all the gears go in fine no crunches or grinds except for my reverse.
When I put it into reverse it goes in and the reverse lights come on but the car won't move and you can hear the gear grinding when I slowly let out the clutch.
Only rarely does it actually reverse. I got stuck in a street for 20 minutes once because it wouldn't reverse to be able to do a U-turn... What could be the problem? I am also running an Exedy 3 puck clutch.
When I put it into reverse it goes in and the reverse lights come on but the car won't move and you can hear the gear grinding when I slowly let out the clutch.
Only rarely does it actually reverse. I got stuck in a street for 20 minutes once because it wouldn't reverse to be able to do a U-turn... What could be the problem? I am also running an Exedy 3 puck clutch.
The other gears work fine?go on a flat surface and try reverse without giving any gas. Release clutch slow and see if you see the rpms go down.
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Loud grinding? Did you install the clutch correctly? Not to insult your intel, but. Everything lined up correctly? Torqued right? Torque sequence right?
Yeah, you can definitely hear the grinding as you let out the clutch. Everything seemed to be correct when I installed the clutch and I torqued every bolt down to spec also. That's why I'm so stumped
. Should I try to re-bleed the clutch?
. Should I try to re-bleed the clutch?
I just put a clutch/flywheel in my 96 coupe and the same is happening to me. When it goes in reverse and I let the clutch out it just makes a loud grinding noise . It's also stuck in gear like I can't roll it in neutral. I'm interested to see what fixes your problem.
Whatever u do, don't just *****-nilly adjust the master cylinder push rod. That would be a band-aid over the underlying problem.
HOWEVER, with that said, if u did replace your master, it is possible that the rod is too far inward (aka set short) that u aren't getting a full extension of the pedal and thus, the fork. You should be getting a full 1-1/2" of fork travel from the tip of the fork back
HOWEVER, with that said, if u did replace your master, it is possible that the rod is too far inward (aka set short) that u aren't getting a full extension of the pedal and thus, the fork. You should be getting a full 1-1/2" of fork travel from the tip of the fork back
Whatever u do, don't just *****-nilly adjust the master cylinder push rod. That would be a band-aid over the underlying problem.
HOWEVER, with that said, if u did replace your master, it is possible that the rod is too far inward (aka set short) that u aren't getting a full extension of the pedal and thus, the fork. You should be getting a full 1-1/2" of fork travel from the tip of the fork back
HOWEVER, with that said, if u did replace your master, it is possible that the rod is too far inward (aka set short) that u aren't getting a full extension of the pedal and thus, the fork. You should be getting a full 1-1/2" of fork travel from the tip of the fork back
I've attached a shitty recording from my iPhone of how far the clutch fork goes back. It might not help since the boot to cover the fork and slave is still on since I didn't want to remove my radiator to get the boot off.
IMG_8236.mov
And, all gears still work as normal.
So stumped....


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hybrider
Acura Integra Type-R
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Aug 3, 2002 12:53 PM



