Just got a new Rebuilt head from a guy from ebay who sells them for 215$ after shipping. I want to fully build this head when the head is done I'll purchase the block and build that but that will be another thread.

I have a few questions before those questions my goal for this build is nothing under 225 HP if I could get 225 HP or a little over would be perfect as this will be a daily driven car that has just the right amount of go when I need it.

1. Stainless steel or titanium valves in terms of price will the titanium really do that much better?

2. Delta regrind or Bisimoto Regrind in terms of price whats the best bang for my buck for the power I'm trying to achieve?

3. Is it worth having the head ported for the amount of power it will get as I want to achieve around 225 HP.

4. Upgraded valve springs & Retainers (Titanium?) would it be worth the investment.

My main goal is not to waste money on useless parts I'm a novice just getting started I need all the advice I can get, If you can recommended exactly which parts I would need to achieve this goal that would be great.

I was staying all Honda on this build but I don't know if the head parts are interchangeable for more power & the amount I'm trying to achieve.

 

forgot to add what cam gear should I go with on this build as well?

 

It won't happen on a B2 head, unfortunately, and you pretty much just wasted $215. They just don't flow well enough. Not only that, you won't have the compression to support the camshaft profile that will be needed, as well as the other supporting modifications. You CAN make that kind of power with an H22(very easily) or an H23A VTEC(moar torkz!), and that kind of power has been made on F23 block/F22A head combos. It SHOULD be possible to make that kind of power with a straight up VTEC F23 considering the flow/velocity numbers, but no one seems to want to attempt it and just does the F22A heads because of the superior port and valve geometry, as well as much better supported valvetrain components and camshafts. You'd be pretty surprised at how well a VTEC F23 does with some minor bolt ons, tuned, and mated to a better geared H-series transmission. My car isn't much slower than near-stock H22 Preludes, and it's basically a '97 LX Coupe with an F23 swap, stock ECU, header, 3" intake, stock exhaust piping into an RSX-S muffler, and 94-95 wagon transmission. A tune, porting the F23 intake, a real exhaust, better header, and H-series transmission would make this thing a REALLY lively car; it's also my DD. See my build thread in my signature for more info on it.

Here's a VERY good thread you'll learn lots of information from:
jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX - CB7Tuner Forums

I recommend reading through that before you make any more purchases.

 

Cam won't work even with high compression pistons?

 

No need for titanium with your goals, stainless will do! On that note, the F22B2 has smaller intake valves than both the F22B1 and F22A* heads. So some machine work will be required to get it up to the same 34mm intake diameter as the F22B1/F22A* heads.

I would say contact Bisimoto or Derrek at DDTech for a custom grind.

Unfortunately the F22B2 head suffers from a few setbacks. As mentioned above, smaller intake valves and also a poor exhaust port geometry. So if you want to achieve your goals it will require some $$$ work. Compared to dropping on an F22A*, F22B1 or F23A* head.

Upgraded valve springs if your lift/duration require it. No need for titanium. The upgraded Honda springs and retainers will be enough for your goals.

My suggestion is to sell/return that B2 head and find a used F22A* (PT3), F22B1 or F23A* head and then have it rebuilt the way you want it. Much cheaper in the long run. Do you want to stick with Non VTEC? If so I would suggest the F22A1-6 or F23A5 Non VTEC heads. If not then you can go with the F22B1 or F23A1-4. Stick with the single stick though.... too many DOHC swaps out there....lol

Good head flow, good cam, rods and high comp pistons will get you to were you want to go! It can be done cheaper, however something I always like to remind people.
Fast and Cheap = Not reliable!
Fast and Reliable = Not cheap!
Cheap and Reliable = Not fast!