How did I screw up my Type R, to get a 1399 CEL? Any ideas.

I posted this on a different site, also.

When I search for "integra cel 1399" the info takes me in many directions.

We've never had any problems, in the 11 years that we've had the car.

Daughter's 2001, Type R with 75,227 miles and a Koyo double core (full sized) radiator.

1. Paint the radiator core support.

I painted my core support over a 1 week time period, with the battery disconnected and the radiator out.
I re installed the front bumper and Koyo double core aluminum radiator.
I filled it with 50/50 coolant.
I connected my battery.
I bleed the air out of the cooling system (so I thought), by gently squeezing the upper radiator hose, but the fan would not engage.

I drove around town, for about 50 miles and I noticed that, at idle, the RPM would jump from 500 to 1100, regularly.

I thought that I needed to re bleed the coolant system.

I elevated the front of the car, took off the radiator cap, and let it run for 35 minutes.
The fan did not engage, so I abruptly revved the engine's RPM several times.
The fan engaged and I saw a couple of large air bubbles.

I thought that I was done.

I let the car cool off, while I cleaned up.

I started it, but within 10 seconds, I got a flashing check engine light.
The code is 1399.

I didn't get any codes while I was trying to get the radiator's fan to engage, for a half hour earlier.
I didn't get any codes when I drove it, about 50 miles around town earlier.

Since I replaced the plastic radiator, in 2008, the car has always run very cool in stop and go traffic. Only moving the temp gauge 2 clicks, form zero.

What did I do, to get a cel 1399?

 

might be an unplugged connector...idk check the areas of the engine where u were working at

also check

http://engine-codes.com/p1399_honda.html

https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...p1399-2694958/

good luck

 

Thanks for the links.
I checked the connectors and verified the grounds, on the radiator core support, at .02 ohms.

I dug out the original owner's paperwork. In 2002, at 48000 miles, he had the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires replaced, for $650.

Now, 27,000 miles later it might need to be done again. (I've seen threads that say that this didn't help and no final repair update was mentioned).
Or the valves need adjusting.
Or the ERG system is clogged.

I've read that G-3 Integras don't have an EGR valve.

Got any links for a gen 3 integra egr system?

 

you got a misfire double check your firing order as well as check your rotor and cap on the distributor for worn contacts. Clear the code or reset the edu by unplugging it for a few mins this should clear the code and hopefully it won't come back but if it does then further diagnose the misfire. could also be a pulled wire on the harness for the injectors.

 

Solved the 1399 cel, but don't know how it got there, after removing and re installing the radiator.

I never found out anything about the EGR system or its location.


I don't have a timing light and don't know how to use one, but I installed new:


Plugs...Denso Iridium IK20 5304 gap = .044 (old plugs were NKG R PFR6G)
Wires...oem 32722-p30-405
(I tested the old wires...from shortest to longest, 6.7K, 9.2K, 10.5K, & 12.6K ohms, with no cracking). Service manual pg. 23-95 says max of 25K ohms is bad.
Rotor...oem 30103-p73-003
(On the old rotor, I saw a small black burn spot on each side of the substrate, near its center).
Rotor Screw...oem 30135-p73-004
(I had to use needle nose pliers to pull it out, after I unscrewed it).
Distributor cap...oem 30102-p72-006
(I didn't notice anything different , from the new distributor cap).


It passed my short (around the block) test, with a few up hill inclines.

I drove it 50 miles and no troubles. I guess that when I abruptly revved it, to get the radiator fan to engage I fouled 2 spark plugs.
I'm not sure how revving the motor could foul the plugs.

 

There is no EGR system.

Sometimes it takes a while for the fan to kick on (like 20-30 minutes)

I am jealous that your daughter drives a Type R.

 

I put the gap at .044 even though the service manual say s .043, because that's as close as I could get them.

 

check that spark plug gap again that could be it as well. usually you don't need to gap the plugs. So if you gapped them when got them new out the box that may be where your getting a misfire.

 

I would not suggest gapping iridium plugs. Infact...I would strongly suggest NOT gapping them. If you weaken or damage that electrode and it falls into the cylinder.....omgggggg


OP probably just had a set of plugs that were fouled, and the ECU got to the point where it threw a code. I would have replaced them with copper or platinum plugs. But...whatever, as long as it runs well with what he used.

Off topic: I just saw an ITR pass my condo right before reading this post lol. The universe is telling me to go buy another ITR.

 

I worked those iridium plugs very slow and easy.
I never touched the fine center conductor.

I don't understand how burping a radiator can foul 2 plugs.

 

That gap is for OEM platinum plugs. The iridiums are pre-gapped to where they should be.

Burping a radiator can't foul plugs. It was just a coincidence. Does your daughter make a lot of very short trips? Start the car and let it run to "warm up"?