welding v band to turbine housing
What's the secret to welding a v-band flange to a cast exhaust housing?
I have a Holset HE351 and it has a bulky and strange 4" outlet like this:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/DSC00948.jpg
and I was thinking about turning it off flat like this:
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_0131.jpg
and then plug the wastegate hole and weld a 3" v-band to the turbine outlet kinda like this:
http://alphatuning.com/wp-content/up...3/DSCN0174.jpg
I have a Holset HE351 and it has a bulky and strange 4" outlet like this:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/DSC00948.jpg
and I was thinking about turning it off flat like this:
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_0131.jpg
and then plug the wastegate hole and weld a 3" v-band to the turbine outlet kinda like this:
http://alphatuning.com/wp-content/up...3/DSCN0174.jpg
I won't get into a filler rod discussion (aka fighting words) about what to weld it with, but preheating is a wise idea. There aren't any "secrets" really if you know how to weld. Preheat, make a pass, preheat, make a pass... You get the idea. The temperature you preheat to is also very debatable as well, but it helps to have a dedicated oven / grill / fluid heater / etc but a torch will work if you take care, it's just not as efficient.
They do make a no-preheat cast welding rod but I personally wouldn't use it in this situation. Some people might though... Also, it will make a difference if this turbine housing is used or brand new. Heat cycled cast parts can be just as much as a PITA as a dirty cast part.
They do make a no-preheat cast welding rod but I personally wouldn't use it in this situation. Some people might though... Also, it will make a difference if this turbine housing is used or brand new. Heat cycled cast parts can be just as much as a PITA as a dirty cast part.
i would sell that and get something you don't need to modify. that is the best choice imo.
i have welded v-bands to cast turbines and never had an issue. my process:
clean/grind/machine surface of turbine to be welded to bare metal.
preheat turbine housing on hot plate 1 hour max temp.
clamp v-band to heat sink to prevent warping.
remove turbine from hot plate.
weld outside of joint.
let air cool to cold.
remove heat sink.
preheat again on hot plate 1 hour.
remove from hot plate.
weld inside of joint.
let air cool to cold.
i have used 309L and never had any crack.
aaron
i have welded v-bands to cast turbines and never had an issue. my process:
clean/grind/machine surface of turbine to be welded to bare metal.
preheat turbine housing on hot plate 1 hour max temp.
clamp v-band to heat sink to prevent warping.
remove turbine from hot plate.
weld outside of joint.
let air cool to cold.
remove heat sink.
preheat again on hot plate 1 hour.
remove from hot plate.
weld inside of joint.
let air cool to cold.
i have used 309L and never had any crack.
aaron
I have some 309 filler. I'm more concerned with how long it will last in service than anything. It just seems that with the amount of temperature variance that a turbo sees and the difference in expansion rate between the two material, there might be a problem down the road.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_0133.jpg
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I have some 309 filler. I'm more concerned with how long it will last in service than anything. It just seems that with the amount of temperature variance that a turbo sees and the difference in expansion rate between the two material, there might be a problem down the road.
Don't get me wrong, 316 can and will work but it will have a higher chance of cracking.
So for this case i would use 309 or 312. i had this same question a few months back and researched the crap out of it and talked to many people that know a lot more about metallurgy than i ever could.
I have some 309 filler. I'm more concerned with how long it will last in service than anything. It just seems that with the amount of temperature variance that a turbo sees and the difference in expansion rate between the two material, there might be a problem down the road.
That said, you can help yourself out considerably by properly flexing and supporting the exhaust so that the weld doesn't get loaded up while you're driving around.
FYI, that goes for just about any part you make. If you're concerned about cracking due to loading/vibration, make the effort to support your load case and make sure you weld with proper filler and techniques and you're going to help minimize your failures.
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