After my car has warmed up and ive drove it for about 5 minutes. Once i make a complete stop and then i try to accelerate it starts popping, sputtering, and bogging like it doesn't want to go and it has no power.. I honestly have no clue whats making it do this. I can have it in park or neutral and rev it up for days. But as soon as i put it in R, D4,D3,2,or 1 it starts popping and sputtering. What do i do?

 

Check for any stored codes first.

 

check for codes as stated. Possibly the crank sensor going out once hot!??!!! Sounds ignition related.

 

Funny, I just logged on to post this exact scenario. Mine is a '93 Accord SE.
In the past week I've replaced:
All belts; oil; air filter; plugs & wires; distributor; crankshaft, camshaft & balance shaft seals; water pump; set timing (dead on); and it runs fine when idling, but literally after 5 mins of driving it starts sputtering. No Check Engine light, so it isn't throwing codes. Could my CE light be out?

 

On both, if you have a obd2 meter, check to see what the actual ect temp is. Also, watch to see when car goes into closed loop mode. If indies tho into closed loop or when it does, car starts acting up. I'd check O2. Sensor also.

 

Getting confusing here....a 4th gen and a 5th gen in the same thread. "tim" both are OBD-I so only a service connector.

When you turn the key to "on"/pos II the CEL light should come on for ~3 seconds and then go off - this is a bulb check.

Both posters seem to have an issue once the car goes into "closed loop" - engine at normal op temp. So if this is true - only happens once the car is at normal op temp and no CEL. Also there was not any recent work done before the issue showed up. I'd lean towards a lazy O2. Try unplugging the O2 and let the car warm up and see if the issue is still there......this should also set a code.

 

Thank you "Lost." I'll remove the sensor, but should I drive it when it's removed. Any issues with that?

 

Don't remove the sensor....just unplug the electrical connector. Start the car and let it warm up, see if the issue is still there. Yes this should cause a fault in the ECU - Check engine light should come on.

After trying this, check the code(s) using the service connector, note any and all codes. It is early, you should at least have a code 43.....any others post them. Then reset the codes, pull the "backup" fuse from the underhood fuse box for about ~2 min and then re-install the fuse.

Was the issue still there when the O2 connector was unplugged?

 

Ok. Unplugged the sensor and took it for a spin. It ran just fine, no sputtering, etc. I pulled the Codes and the only one it threw was a 41 - Oxygen Sensor Heater. This is a whole new issue to me. Does this mean the sensor is shot?
Note: the electrical connector was covered with oil (previous leak.) Could this have an affect on the functionality/accuracy of the sensor?

 

Clean up the connector and replacing the sensor should get you running again.

The heater unit inside the oxygen sensor is designed to heat the sensor up quickly so it works faster.

 

Oh, so does this mean it's not getting heated up quick enough? Or not at all? I've read that the sensor begins sending signal to the ECU once it reaches 600 degrees. Does this "600 degree" threshold occur via the electrical connector?
I would think that the exhaust pipe (where the sensor is located) would warm it up quite quickly just by the heat that the pipe generates.

 

Ahh... Duhh...hehe, I can almost read

 

FINAL update.
Lostagain was right "again." I replaced the O2 sensor and it's all good! Thank you all very much for your insight and taking the time to reply.
I'm curious how things worked out for the OP of this thread...

 

okay its me again and im trying to figure out where exactly is the crank position sensor. also my CEL is on but its been on forever and i still dont know why. I dont have the obd1 scanner and i tried to pull them with the paper clip but it doesnt work like it suppose to. but i unplugged the oxygen sensor but no help. should i reset the ecu and try again? Im going to make a video later today so yall can see exactly what im talking about.

 

Go on youtube and find a howto for pulling codes. It sounds like you're not trying hard enough.

 

alrighty I finally got it to work. it gave me codes 45 and 72

45 means fuel supply metering?

and 72 is a misfire in cylinder 2.....


what is fuel supply metering???