greets gentlemen, here it is. believe my a/c sys is overcharged and causing drivability issues such as bogging missing vibration so forth with ac engaged with ac off smooth as silk.
I have done many searches and read the ac section of the service man and faq here and I see that below 30psi on low side is to low and below 150 psi on high side is to low indicating under pressure condition
BUT I cannot find out what the max psi is for low- high sides. maybe im blind but I cant find it anywhere.... anyone know? I really want to verify how overcharged the system is as concerned about damage to compressor due to overcharge. as a note when ac on compressor cycles and cycles and motor vibrates and jumps to the point of flexing the front motor mount thanks in advance

cap off: max psi on both low and high side of system what is top end spec
best regards dave

 

Depends on test conditions. Read through information posted in the recent thread below very carefully:

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...ystem-3242261/

 

nobody? really? guys im not being lazy...and ive seen lots of folks have had the same issues. I just want to know what specs on low and high 134r capacity in psi not fluid ounces. even if the extra pressure is air in line what not . I need to know at what pressure it poses a risk to components tia

 

thanks Ron! of all the guys on here you have always been most helpful. i'll read up

 

I followed all those directions when charging. I used gauges under proper conditions to ascertain low 134a condition. I had a leak due to a bad leaking shrader valve which I replaced and brought system down to zero 134a. on recharge took 2 cans (12oz) to bring gauge and thermometer to system spec. blowing ice cold but on drive home severe rough running missing so forth. I feel I used an inferior gauge and hate to admit it but want it right....I didn't pull a vacuum on system. swaped the valve as fast as possible and proceeded to charge. I believe 134a is supposed to be 19 oz and 5 oz pag 46 oil that's all my info I guess I screwed the job by not pulling the vacuum . now I need to correct

 

Could be air in system, due to known leak, and/or overcharged with refrigerant. Either way, recover refrigerant, replace receiver/dryer, pull deep vacuum and leak test, and then recharge by refrigerant weight, not high/low pressures.

 

Ron, followed your directions and everything is perfect. thanks so much for the solid advice. I am lucky I didn't break the compressor as I used a quality gauge this time and my pressure was in the red before I discharged the system .....half way up so I lucked out. gonna keep an eye for leaks and the such for a few weeks but all in all I as stated purely lucky I didn't leak a hose or kill the compressor. again thank you sir!
best regards Dave
now I have to figure out why my rpm gauge needle moves to 1000 rpm when I put car ignition in start position with engine still not cranked...its always something

 

Nice work!