HELP!!! FIRST TIME EGR PORT CLEANING.
Hi I'm cleaning my egr ports on my car. 94 Honda accord DX and I was wondering how easy and eta time to complete. This is my first time doing anything like this. Any help would be appreciated
I did mine a couple years ago and it really isn't very hard at all.
I'd say for you it might take an hour or two. Just be sure when you remove the fuel rail that fuel will leak out (not much) but be sure to clean it up and avoid any flames. Follow the DIY that is in the sticky section and you'll be just fine.
I'd say for you it might take an hour or two. Just be sure when you remove the fuel rail that fuel will leak out (not much) but be sure to clean it up and avoid any flames. Follow the DIY that is in the sticky section and you'll be just fine.
I did mine a couple years ago and it really isn't very hard at all.
I'd say for you it might take an hour or two. Just be sure when you remove the fuel rail that fuel will leak out (not much) but be sure to clean it up and avoid any flames. Follow the DIY that is in the sticky section and you'll be just fine.
I'd say for you it might take an hour or two. Just be sure when you remove the fuel rail that fuel will leak out (not much) but be sure to clean it up and avoid any flames. Follow the DIY that is in the sticky section and you'll be just fine.
The 5th gen have a nice little "plate" you remove.......4th gen have "plugs" on the intake (six I think) that have to be pulled out with a slide hammer or some other type of puller. The six gen 4 cyl you have to remove the upper part of the plenum....the 6 cyl's aren't that bad but to "do it right" the intake has to come off.
So compared to the 4th and 6th gen 4 cyl's Accords....yea the 5th is easier, IMHO.
Back to the topic......why are you doing this, are you having an issue or just because?
Next is the decision to pull the rail off the injectors or pull the rail with the injectors. Either way, the upper and lower seals are ~21 years old. So decide which way you are going to pull the fuel rail - then IMHO get new seals for the injectors (upper or lower).
So compared to the 4th and 6th gen 4 cyl's Accords....yea the 5th is easier, IMHO.
Back to the topic......why are you doing this, are you having an issue or just because?
Next is the decision to pull the rail off the injectors or pull the rail with the injectors. Either way, the upper and lower seals are ~21 years old. So decide which way you are going to pull the fuel rail - then IMHO get new seals for the injectors (upper or lower).
Trending Topics
That inspection plate will make it much easier. On my 93, I had to use a slide hammer and screw attachment to pull the plugs out. The hardest part is trying not to drill all the way through the plugs, metal shavings down the intake is usually considered a bad thing. (I used chassis grease on the drill bit to catch the shavings, because I did end up drilling through one of the plugs).
As far as performance, it might help with some drivability (light throttle, idle, and throttle transitions). WOT performance probably won't change since the EGR should be closed during WOT anyway. But I found an excessive amount of carbon in mine, I suppose yours will be similar, two of the ports were completely clogged, two were restricted.
As far as performance, it might help with some drivability (light throttle, idle, and throttle transitions). WOT performance probably won't change since the EGR should be closed during WOT anyway. But I found an excessive amount of carbon in mine, I suppose yours will be similar, two of the ports were completely clogged, two were restricted.
Just did this on my 2001 (different than yours, mine has a single tube cast into the manifold that runs from intake plenum to the EGR valve), and it made a big difference under moderate throttle. Had been shuddering, seems much more responsive now plus the hesitating is gone. I bench tested the sensor by clamping a couple of wires to my battery and touching on the appropriate pins, worked just fine so saved the $112 for a new one. Just cleaned up the bottom portion of it and reinstalled with new gasket. (Could probably have used the old one, but had already bought a new one so threw it on.) You might see if Eric the Car Guy's video on it is your engine, I thought it was a mid-90's, it was definitely earlier than my 2001.
The 5th gen have a nice little "plate" you remove.......4th gen have "plugs" on the intake (six I think) that have to be pulled out with a slide hammer or some other type of puller. The six gen 4 cyl you have to remove the upper part of the plenum....the 6 cyl's aren't that bad but to "do it right" the intake has to come off.
So compared to the 4th and 6th gen 4 cyl's Accords....yea the 5th is easier, IMHO.
Back to the topic......why are you doing this, are you having an issue or just because?
Next is the decision to pull the rail off the injectors or pull the rail with the injectors. Either way, the upper and lower seals are ~21 years old. So decide which way you are going to pull the fuel rail - then IMHO get new seals for the injectors (upper or lower).
So compared to the 4th and 6th gen 4 cyl's Accords....yea the 5th is easier, IMHO.
Back to the topic......why are you doing this, are you having an issue or just because?
Next is the decision to pull the rail off the injectors or pull the rail with the injectors. Either way, the upper and lower seals are ~21 years old. So decide which way you are going to pull the fuel rail - then IMHO get new seals for the injectors (upper or lower).
Just did this on my 2001 (different than yours, mine has a single tube cast into the manifold that runs from intake plenum to the EGR valve), and it made a big difference under moderate throttle. Had been shuddering, seems much more responsive now plus the hesitating is gone. I bench tested the sensor by clamping a couple of wires to my battery and touching on the appropriate pins, worked just fine so saved the $112 for a new one. Just cleaned up the bottom portion of it and reinstalled with new gasket. (Could probably have used the old one, but had already bought a new one so threw it on.) You might see if Eric the Car Guy's video on it is your engine, I thought it was a mid-90's, it was definitely earlier than my 2001.
I've been having a random cel that pops up very randomly and not for a long time either some times once a day sometimes every 2-3 and its only stays on for 15-20 mins then goes away or whenever I restart my car. I took it to the Honda dealership to get codes pulled but unless my light stays on the code isn't staying logged so that can't say for sure what it is bit the tech said it's most likely my ports need to be Cleaned or my o2 sensor but he did a visual inspection and said it looks in good shape plus it was replaced like just over 3 yes ago so he said its probably my egr ports.
So I don't buy what you are being told. There is more to this story AND DO NOT SPEND A PENNY on any suggested "repair/fix" until you have better information.
Stop, I call BS on what you are being "told". The codes will store/stay in memory until power is removed from the ecu.
So I don't buy what you are being told. There is more to this story AND DO NOT SPEND A PENNY on any suggested "repair/fix" until you have better information.
So I don't buy what you are being told. There is more to this story AND DO NOT SPEND A PENNY on any suggested "repair/fix" until you have better information.
If the code is not being stored then the ECM memory fuse 7.5A is probably blown.
Check the underhood fuse box.
98-02 F23s have a single port that requires the upper plenum to be removed to clear the EGR port.
94-97 F22s have an EGR manifold that can be removed and cleaned, along with individual runner ports.
90-93 F22s have individual plugs and ports that need to be removed and cleaned, best way to deal with that is to shoot yourself.
Check the underhood fuse box.
98-02 F23s have a single port that requires the upper plenum to be removed to clear the EGR port.
94-97 F22s have an EGR manifold that can be removed and cleaned, along with individual runner ports.
90-93 F22s have individual plugs and ports that need to be removed and cleaned, best way to deal with that is to shoot yourself.
It will not becomes solid, even if it does when they try to retrieve the code it will not be stored in the ECM as the memory self cleared when the car was turned to off.
No memory fuse, no memory, no code will be saved/stored for later retrieval.
No memory fuse, no memory, no code will be saved/stored for later retrieval.
On 94-97 look under the glovebox door.
You will see two blue connectors, unlock and pull the two wire connector down.
With a wire/paper clip jam it into the end of the blue two wire connector.
Watch the CEL and D4 lights for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones, thus if the CEL or D4 lamp blinks ' _(slight pause)-----' That would be a code 15. The codes will repeat, so keep watching until you are sure you have seen the same code(s) repeat, then you know you have seen all the codes,
Write them down. Come back here and post.
You will see two blue connectors, unlock and pull the two wire connector down.
With a wire/paper clip jam it into the end of the blue two wire connector.
Watch the CEL and D4 lights for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones, thus if the CEL or D4 lamp blinks ' _(slight pause)-----' That would be a code 15. The codes will repeat, so keep watching until you are sure you have seen the same code(s) repeat, then you know you have seen all the codes,
Write them down. Come back here and post.
On 94-97 look under the glovebox door.
You will see two blue connectors, unlock and pull the two wire connector down.
With a wire/paper clip jam it into the end of the blue two wire connector.
Watch the CEL and D4 lights for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones, thus if the CEL or D4 lamp blinks ' _(slight pause)-----' That would be a code 15. The codes will repeat, so keep watching until you are sure you have seen the same code(s) repeat, then you know you have seen all the codes,
Write them down. Come back here and post.
You will see two blue connectors, unlock and pull the two wire connector down.
With a wire/paper clip jam it into the end of the blue two wire connector.
Watch the CEL and D4 lights for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones, thus if the CEL or D4 lamp blinks ' _(slight pause)-----' That would be a code 15. The codes will repeat, so keep watching until you are sure you have seen the same code(s) repeat, then you know you have seen all the codes,
Write them down. Come back here and post.

No. Your CEL lamp needs to be working to retrieve codes on OBDI cars to retrieve codes, yes.
Your CEL does not need to be on all the time(hard fault) to retrieve codes.
It is a good idea from time to time to check for stored codes to verify that your vehicle is in optimum condition.

No. Your CEL lamp needs to be working to retrieve codes on OBDI cars to retrieve codes, yes.
Your CEL does not need to be on all the time(hard fault) to retrieve codes.
It is a good idea from time to time to check for stored codes to verify that your vehicle is in optimum condition.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
civicracer1993
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
1
Sep 19, 2002 04:59 PM




