Currently fried my p75 ecu, I have a 93 hatch si, b18b1 with gsr LSD transmission bolt ons. I bought a p28 reset tuned for b18b1 non vtec chipped map tune on it from a guy who tuned it to my specs I have a new diZzy.(bought before I knew it was ecu) 2 step at 3200 rpms shift light as engine light at 5500 reset rev limiter to 6600,o2 disabled. my speedo was messing up loose wire on vss which would make the car think it is not moving in launch mode either it's a bad connection cause it worked fine after I fixed or there is another issue. To be straight to the point my car feels slower till I hit 5500 rpms the. Feels like vtec kicks in impossible when I have no vtec and even when I first had my swap I had a virgin p28. Never done this before what's causing the lag? He said it's in open loop since o2 is disabled btw tuned with chrome

 

Any help??? Bump

 

This is one of the slower Sub-Forums on Honda-Tech man, you have to wait your turn in here.

Are you positive you set your ignition timing correctly? If you did, then most likely your "tune" is pure ****. And it leans out quite a bit around your problem area. What is your wideband reading? Although a basemap can sometimes be close, no two engines want exactly the same thing and in car street tuning at minimum is required after engine / setup modifications.

 

I had a p75 and it never did this dizzy timing is correct it only did this when I got a chipped p28 vtec disabled on map tune on Crome, would bad plugs cause power spikes or maybe a bad speedo new vss but today my speedo took a crap I believe.. Then check light comes on and chip disabled and still I have low power till 5500 rpms make me learn towards that it isn't the tune. Just never done this till I put new ecu in

 

Also I have no wideband, intake 2.5 exhaust 4.2.1 headers basic bolt ons

 

Please slow down and try to formulate a coherent sentence or two; it's kind of confusing to decipher what you are trying to say at times. If you have a CEL then you need to pull the code(s) and see what they are. Is your speedometer working? Are you saying that you disabled the chip by removing the J1 jumper or you just removed the chip?

 

Did not remove chip it dissables after cel comes on after ten mins of driving, broke. Speedometer does this. I was saying that even with the chip disables it still runs lean till 5500 or rich, it's a lag till I hit the rpm. Would a coolant sensor that runs to ecu be bad, I remember it bouncing after a bump

 

Ur problem is a base LS map on chrome runs like crap below 5500 .... U need to add 15% to get it to run ok .... To run correctly u need a wideband and fuel tuned and timing added after fuel is right ....

 

Not sure where you are getting that CROME has a built in LS base map in it. Are you talking about downloading something from the BIN Repository? If so, which file exactly are you referring to that needs more fuel?

OP - The temperature gauge is ran off of the TSU (temperature sending unit) and NOT the ECT / CTS (engine coolant temperature / coolant temperature sensor) sensor. The ECT sensor is for the ECU, while the TSU is for the gauge cluster and could possibly cause your gauge bouncing phenomenon. On the distributor side of the head the TSU is a single wire and the ECT has two wires.

The chip will not "disable" just because the check engine light comes on; it is most likely going into limp mode. You need to figure out which CEL you have first. It would REALLY help to have at least a wideband O2 unit installed as well. Datalogging would also be nice albeit not a must have.

 

I figured having the o2 disabled it would run like
Crap in
Open loop, yes I I know about the sending unit etc, my question. Is if it is bad would it make the ecu think the engine is cold, and like you said ls base map the guy tuned for stock injectors. Not quiet sure how he would need turn fuel up. Either way in limp mode it does the same thing, runs the same without my 2 step shift light and rev limiter. That's what's confusing me.

 

There isn't one in chrome but all the ones I tried from pgmfi need more fuel initially when put into chrome

 

Almost all the cars I tune are left in open loop. The only time I use closed loop is when the owner requests it. In my opinion you can make the car run MUCH smoother in open loop when everything is set properly along with exacting A/F control. The ECT / CTS could definitely fail or there could be wiring issues. How exactly are you disabling the 2 step and shift light without removing the J1 jumper or swapping the ECU?

There is always the possibility that it was chipped wrong as well, but most likely your tune is pure ****. LTCxDB2 is saying the LS basemaps are lean. What neither of us know is what map was used exactly. I assume you bought this setup off eBay? You really just need to either buy a legit basemap or get a wideband to figure out what is going on. If you have wiring issues then fix them. You STILL haven't said what your CEL is and helping you is getting VERY old VERY quick. You have to help yourself too, I can't be there in person to hold your hand.

 

Not off eBay bought from local guy who's a honda tech he said he prob need add more fuel should I get bigger injectors code is for vss it's brand new vss. Not sure if speedo breaking has anything to do with it throwing vss code but when light comes on 2 step don't work but rev limiter does. I'm getting it's lagging cause not enough fuel

 

On a stock engine you are absolutely fine with your stock injectors. All that needs to be done (assuming it is lean) is some fuel added to the map. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes total start to finish - the guy should do it for free for giving you a bunk tune. Either way, you absolutely must get your VSS working if you want your features to work.

AS long as you didn't bust the gear on the differential (unlikely) you most likely have a wiring issue. The plugs on the VSS of those cars are prone to corrosion so that could be an issue. You need to look into this issue definitely fix it and then worry about the rest.

 

I fixed vss the guy said he added little more fuel and I advanced timing still seems a little off definatly third gear it's good till 3500 then lags till 5500 so im guessing like he said he got time from someone else and Dl it to the chip I will find a different tuner that's my only guess here.

 

3500-5500 with a short ram needs way more fuel than stock ... So I can only guess that the ls base map used needs more fuel there... In the end a wideband could have solved this a while ago

 

If you don't want to go through the hassle of installing a wideband O2 and controller. You should take it to a tuner who will do a good solid street tune for you! Just blindly adding fuel and changing ignition timing on a the maps is not going to work all that well. Sure it will work if you continually go back and forth, much more reliable to pay someone to do a street tune!

Once all of the electrical issues are resolved. street tune!

 

You're running a basemap bro. I have a hundred P75 tunes and they're all different, nothing is going to suit your engine exactly.
Fix whatever is causing your CEL, then get it tuned. case closed.