Hello,
New battery slowly looses charge. Mechanic said there is a 400mA draw on fuse #15. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Also can I drive without this fuse?

 

What year Odyssey?

 

Oops sorry 2006

 

Is this the under-hood Fuse No. 15 or the driver's side under-dash Fuse No. 15? Probably under-hood; but, want to confirm first.

 

Under-hood Fuse No. 15 (40A) protects:
• Fuse 7 in Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box
• Fuses 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 in Driver’s Fuse/Relay Box

The mechanic should be able to further narrow which of the other fuse by individually pulling and re-inserting the other fuses protected by under-hood Fuse No. 15.

• Under-hood Fuse No. 7 protects the relay control module
• Driver’s under-dash Fuse No. 5 (RADIO) protects the Audio Unit, DVD Player Unit (RES (DVD): EX-L, Touring), XM Receiver (USA: Navigation; ’06 USA Touring: RES (DVD))
• Driver’s under-dash Fuse No. 6 (INTR LIGHTS) protects the Ambient Light (EX, EX-L, Touring), Cargo Area Light, Driver’s Door Courtesy Light (EX, EX-L, Touring), Driver’s Vanity Mirror Light, Front Individual Map Lights, Front Passenger’s Door Courtesy Light (EX, EX-L, Touring), Front Passenger’s Vanity Mirror Light, Inner Power Tailgate Switch (Touring), Left Middle Individual Map Light, Left Rear Individual Map Light, Right Middle Individual Map Light, Right Rear Individual Map Light
• Driver’s under-dash Fuse No. 7 (BACK UP) protects the Driving Position Memory Switch (Touring), Gauge Control Module, Touring), Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver, Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit (EX, EX-L, Touring), MICU, MICU-Rear Junction Box Control Unit, Navigation Display (EX-L, Touring), Navigation Unit (EX-L, Touring), Power Seat Control Unit (Touring), Power Tailgate Control Unit (Touring), Power Window Master Switch, Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit (EX, EX-L, Touring), Wiper/Washer Switch
• Driver’s under-dash Fuse No. 8 – Not used
• Driver’s under-dash Fuse No. 9 protects the Driver’s Accessory Power Socket Relay

My best guess would be an issue with the multiplex integrated control system. So, pulling driver’s Fuse No. 7 (BACK UP) for the excessive parasitic draw test probably will further narrow it down to those components/circuits. – You cannot just leave this fuse out if you want the car to start and run.

Issue can be the system staying awake due to stuck door lock switch. If that door lock switch sticks in either its lock or unlock position (the input signal stays on), the system won’t return to the sleep mode. This will keep an excessive parasitic draw on the battery that will kill it in short order.

Can also be due to aftermarket accessories, stereo, etc.

 

Is this something a novice can tackle or should I take it to the dealer?

 

Sparrow1 - did you resolve this issue? I have a drain related to that same fuse. My radio light stays on when the fuse is in and the car is off. I have checked all of my fuses and they are fine. Driving around with that fuse right now and it's a b@#$%. thanks