I'm new here but what is the best way to do an H2B swap in my crx & have the most hood clearance. I've looked around & the fiber images cf hood is long gone. I can deal with cutting the webbing on my zc hood & use hood spacers. I just don't want a my hood sticking up a lot. I'd be going with the Evolution h2b kit. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Vis Sir hood for USDM front is what I plan on going with. Also if you don't already have one Evolution makes a pcv adapter which swapshopracing sells.

One thing H2B's aren't known for is clearance especially in the 88-91 chassis. I am currently going through all this.

 

Read this:

https://honda-tech.com/hybrid-engine...ulley-3225482/

 

The hood problem is imo the most unattractive part about the QSD H2B swap. You can go evo kit if you want to hit your oil pan and header off the ground and forgo the correct B series geometry, which is of course a major highlight of the H2B swap to begin with. QSD hands down but...

jacking up the hood looks ridiculous. And, this stops the hood from opening all the way. Plus it forces you to remove the rubber seals at the rear corners of the hood leading to water leaks inside the cabin.

You can help the situation by using an appropriate intake manifold. You can also use the evo pcv adapter. You can cut the webbing, although cutting out too much makes the hood really saggy and crap. And the hood still won't close. I resorted to building a custom fiberglass hood. 2 years later it works but not nearly as good as an oem hood.

I believe the real solution is a custom valve cover. The rear part of the stock cover (specifically the oil cap) is a major problem area. There is a lot of wasted space here due to the design of the tilted prelude/ accord layout, much unlike the vertical B series. I know of only one company who has made a proper cover (Neil Brown Engineering) but unfortunately this product is expensive and possibly not even available. Or, you could cut/ weld a stock cover. Only a handful of ppl have done this clean and proper. But it is an option and one I'm considering for myself.

Even still, the hood will not close. It will hit the timing gear. But at that point, a combination of minor motor spacing, hood spacing, and hood trimming should produce acceptable results.

 

I used the PCV adapter for mine and I made a custom hood for mine. Just cut the hood and research how to fabricate fiberglass parts. You can create a cowl and then bond it to the OEM hood and cut the rest out, or you can use the modified OEM hood as a plug for a new part... DONE.
See my H2B CRX thread for pics.

 

true but its not as good. First of all it kills the original lines of the car. A custom composite hood is obvious on an otherwise original classic car. The new shape stands out, most likely the panels will not line up like before and the paint won't match unless you paint the whole car. Basically its going to negatively impact the appearance. And, its not as strong. Even a minor accident will cause the hood to rip out and blind the driver. Hood pins might help but those suck imo.