New old Accord major engine work
Hi folks! I'm new to the forum, but I've been a lurker for a couple of weeks while gathering parts for repairs on my inherited 92 Accord. I've been wrenching on old Chevys for years.
So - this Accord has junk in the coolant from a bad head gasket, it's time for the timing belt and water pump, and the plug holes are full of oil. I've got the gasket sets, new head bolts, new TB kit, new belts, and new water pump.
From the head gasket FAQ writeup, I have seen that it is possible to have a bad head gasket and no head warpage. This car started idling rough years ago, after a hose failure led to what I consider a very minor overheating episode. Given you folks' experience, do you think my head needs to be resurfaced? In a perfect world, I would like to simply take the head off, clean it up, and put it all back together in one shot.
Thanks for your help!!
So - this Accord has junk in the coolant from a bad head gasket, it's time for the timing belt and water pump, and the plug holes are full of oil. I've got the gasket sets, new head bolts, new TB kit, new belts, and new water pump.
From the head gasket FAQ writeup, I have seen that it is possible to have a bad head gasket and no head warpage. This car started idling rough years ago, after a hose failure led to what I consider a very minor overheating episode. Given you folks' experience, do you think my head needs to be resurfaced? In a perfect world, I would like to simply take the head off, clean it up, and put it all back together in one shot.
Thanks for your help!!
If you are going to do belts, water pump, etc. then pull the head and see if it is warped. If it is, then machine it. If not, then put it back on. Either way, get a valve job and seals.
You will need to verify head straightness with a precision straightedge, aluminum does not warp the same way cast iron does. We also have open deck blocks, which are not as stable as the closed deck cast iron blocks of old.
Head gaskets blow out and cylinder heads warp because something is out of shape, either because the surface is not flat, or because the bolts stretched out past their service limit. Measuring the fastener length can help you gauge the mode of failure. Note where the gasket failed, and where the head bolts were in the block. If you had a blowout with an over-stretched fastener, even with a slightly distorted head or block in THAT area, it is possible that it will never leak. I've seen guys do this before, not myself personally. I usually opt for a replacement engine or total overhaul just for reliability's sake.
You will most likely need new head bolts if they are torque to yield, or you'll blow any gasket within months due to bolt stretch.
Head gaskets blow out and cylinder heads warp because something is out of shape, either because the surface is not flat, or because the bolts stretched out past their service limit. Measuring the fastener length can help you gauge the mode of failure. Note where the gasket failed, and where the head bolts were in the block. If you had a blowout with an over-stretched fastener, even with a slightly distorted head or block in THAT area, it is possible that it will never leak. I've seen guys do this before, not myself personally. I usually opt for a replacement engine or total overhaul just for reliability's sake.
You will most likely need new head bolts if they are torque to yield, or you'll blow any gasket within months due to bolt stretch.
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altitude_19
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