altitude_19

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I've noticed for a while that my head gasket appears to have minor 360 degree leakage. All around the head/block seam there is minor "dampness" but no noticeable loss in coolant/oil or leaking from one system to the other. I've seen this on older engines for years with no ill-effect. I was under the car about a week ago and noticed a single drop of coolant working its way down from where the head/block seam meets the timing cover. I can't tell for certain if it is the water pump or the HG. I'm about to do the timing belt/water pump anyway. I have had no loss of performance or "white smoke." Engine has about 159,200 miles.

If you were in my shoes (HG "seepage" but no loss of performance yet) would you do a pre-emptive HG change while doing the TB/WP?

Anybody had a HG change go sideways on them? What should I look out for if I press on with the swap?

untitled001

I would go ahead and change it. Also I would have the head planed to insure that if it is warped, that its flat and back to spec. Has is it ever overheated?

altitude_19

No overheat as far as I know...BUT, I've only had it for 2,000 of it's 159,200 miles. Is a machinist a MUST? I'd rather use a precision straight edge so I don't have to stop work for however long to take it in.

motegicivic

Depends if it is coolant or oil leaking from it. Coolant leak will get worse and will need to be done, since there is a good chance of over heating. I have an oil head leak for years, it is a pain, but I have to keep adding oil, but still is fine.

As for machining, the head will most likely be warped if it overheats, but double check it with a straight edge at least, so you are not wasting all that time doing it, if you wanted to play it safe take it to a machine shop and let them plain it.

DSMAddicted

If you're planning on doing the timing belt anyways, why not pull the head and do it right?
I would recommend you change the main crankshaft seal as well while you're doing the timing. It's such a cheap part (but labour intensive to reach) that it should be done everytime you do the timing (just like the input shaft seal on the opposide side of the block when you pull the transmission).

Also... bring it to a machine shop man. Let them resurface the head and clean the top of the block nicely before putting everything back together.

Good luck!

thenext

Fix it, cars aren't fortunate enough to be able to heal themselves like we are. When you get a head surfaced, it bumps up your compression ratio too. It is totally worth doing.

altitude_19

Here's a pic of the leak. See how it's wet right where head meets block? It's the most prominent leak around the seam. For perspective: pic is taken from above the engine compartment with the valve cover far left, alternator to the right, and timing belt cover (grey) at the bottom of the shot. The water pump wouldn't leak there, would it?

honda fossil

are you sure that not a leak from the cam seal ??????? they tend to run down the back of the cover and pool on the edge of the block ???????and you say you have a 159,000 mile did you do seals cam and crank with you t-belt ????? t-belt due at 105,000 to 110,000 miles.

altitude_19

Nope, not sure. But I am CERTAIN that I saw a bead of coolant (green) running down the TB cover. I don't doubt I have camshaft/crankshaft seal leaks. I replaced the oil pan gaskets and still drip oil from the bottom of the TB cover. Haven't personally done the TB myself. Previous owner claims it was done...naturally I won't take chances. I have the parts for the job already. Just working out if I have to do the HG while I'm in there. Thinking about getting IR dye for the coolant to investigate this further...

clinicallyill

if you don't change it it's only gonna get worse and you're going to have to do it eventually anyways

Former User

The water pump is a much more common source of an external coolant leak. The coolant drop may have come from the bleed hole, but a small amount is normal.

altitude_19

THAT'S where the bleed hole is? Cause it's a perfect explanation. The bead was running down the side of the timing belt cover right under it. Good thing I already have the pump. THANK YOU for the diagram, Ron!
Still, all the seepage around the head leads me to believe the clock is ticking on the head gasket? Still think it's worthwhile to get it changed while I have it torn apart?

Former User

If you think the amount of coolant leaking from the bleed hole is above normal, then replace the water pump and go from there. In the meantime, clean the head gasket seam and watch for how long it takes for coolant to reappear. Is it coolant? Can you post picture some clear pictures of the seam?

honda fossil

may be i'm looking at that pic different all i see is dirt and a oil no green crust or coolent puddle

delsolintegra

I would do a compression check. Also are you getting air bubbles in your coolant reservoir overflow bottle when the engine is warmed up and idling? Does the upper radiator hose feel pressurized (hard) when the engine is warmed up and idling? If this is your only car I would fix it right. Otherwise drive it till it gets worse. Swap it out just before it blows. Then rebuild it when it's your spare engine for boost or practice.