Hey all, i used to be in the classic honda section with 3rd gen civics and 1st gen CRXs, i just got my hands on a 1994 civic Dx D15B7 Automatic, Air, P/W, P/L, Pwr sunroof, Rear disk breaks and lowered suspension for a price i couldnt pass up.

I will most likely be doing a Entire engine rebuild, i may need a whole block and head, but at the current moment, that is unknown, what i do know is, the PO says he ran it hot, and it hasnt wanted to start since. The Wires were stuck onto the plugs so bad you couldnt remove them easily, but then the plugs were hand tight, 2 out of 4 plugs are rusty.

 

Welcome

 

I am wondering what to do about it, im not asking for help in terms of building an engine, My initial thoughts are to tear it down, find out if the block is any good, find out if the head is any good, send it to the machine shop if theyre able to be used, IF not, then im left with the option to find another D15b7 OR, swap in another engine, but i dont wanna deal with Wiring.... BUT i need someones help with this, i decoded my Vin and see a conflict...

JHEMEH90RS004XXX

^ isnt that a 1.6 in the vin?

 

Enter the full VIN at Majestic Honda. What comes up?

 

I don't see a 1.6 anywhere in the VIN, what are you referring to?

 

Welcome to Honda Tech.

I realize you don't want to mess with wiring.

Please report back what engine Majestic Honda gives you for your vehicle based on your full VIN.

In all honesty, almost everyone says rebuilding the B7 is not economical. For the D series, the D16Z6 is a much heartier and stronger block worthy of the money to rebuild.

If your car originally had the D16Z6 in it, then there is a fair chance you won't have any major wiring to worry about, just an ECU and Engine swap for the most part, unless they trashed some of the harness throwing the B7 in (if not original).

Let us know what you find.

Thanks.

 

Sunroof indicates ex model so it is possible it was a 1.6. If so then wiring will be there already

Rear discs do to. so do power windows in a sense that all three options came with the ex.

If it has factory sway bars then that also supports the ex model.

Also if you look at the passenger side wiring you will probably notice vtec wiring at the plugs. Pictures in the faq q will show you which ones are for vtec

 

i havent gotten into looking at much, i bought it and now its sitting, i gotta get my shop in order before i can tear down or swap an engine

 

i found the right vin decoder, and found this

MSRP
$16,670.00
Invoice
$14,623.00
Destination Charge
$350.00

* 1.6L SOHC VTEC aluminum-alloy 16 valve 125-hp 4 cyl engine
Multi-point programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI)
Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic transmission w/lockup torque converter/shift interlock/mode indicator
Front wheel drive
Electronic ignition system
55-amp maintenance free battery
70-amp alternator
Independent double wishbone front suspension w/coil springs, stabilizer bar
Independent double wishbone rear suspension w/trailing arms, coil springs, stabilizer bar
Front/rear gas pressurized shock absorbers w/Honda progressive valve
P175/65R14 tires
5J X 14" steel wheels w/full covers
Pwr-assisted rack & pinion steering
* Pwr-assisted ventilated front disc/solid rear disc brakes
11.9 Gallon fuel tank

Since the D15b7 isnt original what could i drop into place without much wiring trouble? a D16z6 is what came out of it, correct?

 

Yes, D16Z6 was the 1.6 Liter VTEC motor of the 5th generation.

You will need to find an automatic ecu to mate with the D16Z6 to keep everything smooth and at peak efficiency. Off the top of my head, I think the Z6 ECU is a P28 but could be mistaken.

 

p28 is correct

 

Thanks for confirming.

OP so that means you want a #####-P28-A51 ECU or P28-C51 or J51 etc.

The A/C/J is less important, just means America/Canada and I think J is Japanese.

The important part is the 5, that means automatic. Manual is a 0 for the 2nd digit of that part of the number.

You can't make a manual into an automatic ECU but you can make an automatic into a manual ECU.

See this website page and this thread for more detailed information on ECU identification.

 

ive got a d15b7 automatic, and found a donor d16z6 automatic, i am hoping to get the wiring and ECU, id imagine the b7 and z6 ecu's are not the same? i know about swapping from A/T to M/T, im only searching for a D16z6 auto, and found the whole package, but will be looking at more $$$ into the project than expected, but with power everything and rear discs, After a brand new paint job i should be looking at what, the neighborhood of $3k?

 

You are correct, the ecu's are not the same. As well, if the transmission is the B7 tranny, they won't be the same either, different ratios and it won't shift right with the engine swap. You will also want the 4 speed automatic from the D16Z6 if you want it all stock.

Engine Tranny and ECU should be able to be found for about a grand, maybe less I would think. Not sure how much paint will cost.

But talking about cost is more of a value type thread which belongs in the value sticky at the top of the forum.

Sticking to the Tech, what is needed is the Z6 long block and it's transmission. Shouldn't need any wiring assuming the engine harness is still with the long block.

Unfortunately I don't know how to identify the transmission to know what motor it went to that is in the car now. Maybe someone else with more experience can provide some insight on that matter.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the transmissions being different, thats something i need to look into before swapping

I bought a D16z6 w/ tranny, harness and ECU for $300, ran the engine and its fine, No CELs, it shifted into Reverse and Drive just fine, but due to it being in the back of a turbo shop, i couldnt drive it out, hes swapping in a 9 second engine/tranny into the shell im pulling from

 

 

So here is a pic of the Donor, before pulling the engine...



Here is the civic ex:


And i found out what happened to this freshly pulled d15b7... They pulled it from a JY, the headbolts were loose, a ton of bolts were loose, my assumption is that, and it seems Very apparent... is that, whoever put this engine in, didnt torque anything to spec, the headgasket began to let air/water/oil into the cylinders... it overheated, he pushed it to the point the timing cover melted to the head

heres the D15b7:


And heres the D16z6 awaiting a pressure washer cleaning and new seals:

 

What seals are you doing?

 

Rear main seal
Cam seal
crank seal
oil pan gasket
timing cover gasket
valve cover gasket
distributor O-ring

and pretty much anything else i can change, im also putting a new timing belt, new plugs, new wires and so forth, my goal is 0 leaks