Hey guys. I bought a non running 94 civic lx with a 1.5. Paid $400 for it. Currently have a total of $907 in it. Has 210k miles. Perfect body and interior is fabulous. It had really low compression, timing had been off two teeth for god knows how long. The valve seats were burned. Had the head rebuilt and I still had a crank no start condition. Compression was 165-185 psi. I had spark. Ended up borrowing a distributor and that fixed the problem. So I bought a used one. Everything was great. The cel light wires to pull codes was connected and it started throwing codes. I had no idea what it was doing at the time so I don't know what codes were set. So i Go to the store and when I restart the car, it dies. No spark. Used the known good distributor and again, it's fine. This time I bought a new one. Drove to work today, all good. On the way home I must have hit the cel light wires because it started flashing. Halfway home I realize its flashing my dtc's. I'm getting 10,16,43. Fuel injectors, fuel supply system, and air intake temp sensor. I'm going to read the schematics tinight and see where I need to be looking. Do you think I could have a condition related to these codes that is/can kill my distributor? I'm a Ford technician, but I'm not gods gift to cars either. I'm pretty good with what I know. Which isn't Hondas. Any advice, please feel free to throw something out there.

 

*disclaimer* And before anyone busts there *** in here hating on punctuation, can it. Its a forum for cars, not high school grammer. Besides, you try to make paragraphs and such on a smart phone and see how that works for you. Carry on....

 

I have written entire essays on a smartphone before - it's no excuse, it's called laziness. Failing to follow simple forum rules is also laziness.


Is the car stock, with the completely original D15B7, including the intake manifold, intake tubing, exhaust manifold, injectors, and ECU? Have you pressure tested your fuel system? Verified that you're getting spray on all four injectors?

 

Its bone stock, I haven't tested the fuel system. It does make good, smooth power. All I have is a gauge for a shrader valve style.
What rule have I broken? Just curious. And I hardly think its necessary to say I'm lazy because I didn't use w proper paragraph structure. Let's keep it real man. Sorry if I broke a rule. It wasn't intentional.

 

Thread titles must be problem-related.

We're past that at this point, though - just keep it in mind for the future.

Reset your ECU, go for a ~30 minute drive, and see what codes return.

 

I reset the ecu tonight. Will see what comes up in the morning when I get to work. 24 mile trip. Maybe I just have some kinks to work out. Thanks for the help. I was referred to this forum from a friend.

 

^

Please click the Rules link in my signature. Please PM me a more appropriate thread title.

 

So i reset the cel. Drive to work this morning. No light, no issues. I guess it was just an issue when the motor was torn down. I was spooked that this could have been an issue causing distributor failure. I assumed there was a problem. This car has been an aggravation. But it was worth it. No more sub 30 degree motorcycle commutes. Lol