I have a 91 si with a completely rebuild b18c1 motor and swapped it in last weekend. it started without any hesitation and no check engine light, which was a good thing. After warming up the car for about 15 minutes, I turned off the car and found that there was oil on all the spark plugs and wires. Took it out, cleaned it and let it sit overnight to dry up. I replaced the valve cover seals and spark plug tube seal the next day. Started up the car again to warm it up to see if it was going to end up with the same results. It stopped, but cylinder 1 spark plug/wire was still cover in oil. It's not flooded but enough oil to cover up the tip of the wires.

I searched around the last couple days, and a lot of people said it's the spark plug seal which I already replaced. Others said it might be bad valve seals. Which I hope it's not!!! I'm going to do a compression test and see what's going on.

Anyways, if anyone know what the deal is will be appreciated. Been a long week and I want to drive it around town so I can break it in. THANKS

EDIT
Dry compression test results. 3 different tries on each cylinder.
1 = 220 PSI
2 = 190 PSI
3 = 210 PSI
4 = 200PSI

Wet
1-4 = 300+ psi

 

Your plug seals are bad on the vc. Make sure that you put them in correctly and that you torqued the vc nuts properly. Thats the only way youre gonna get oil on the plug wires. Its not coming from the combustion chamber. The only other way is a cracked vc or head

 

Yeah, I kinda figured. Just wasn't so sure. But I was just worried about my compression test. Is it fine? I will double check my valve cover tomorrow and see what the deal is. Thanks for the response, appreciate it much!

 

You just rebuilt the engine. If you did a proper hone job and gapped the rings correctly then you wont have any issues.

You havent even broken in the engine so compression numbers are gonna be a bit wonky till then

 

I had clearance issues with my connecting rod bearings. So the shop basically put together my bottom, rings, bearings and all that. They used new clevite rod bearings instead of my ACL cause they said the size was wrong. I didn't check anything else when I got the bottom end back, only the torques just to be safe. Hoping they didn't screw anything up. And yes, bottom has been hone and hot tank. But I am using nippon p73 standard size pistons if that even matters. Going to get a Phearable chip soon just to be safe since pistons are different.

EDIT
Problem solved. The valve cover seal was off a little bit. Didn't know it would matter.

BUT new problem. After fixing that problem, warming up the car til my temp raised up to normal, I took the car on a drive. Try putting some miles onto my block. Less then 2 miles into it, the temp raised up all the way to HOT! Brand new head gasket. Is there other ways around it instead of taking off the head? I'm hoping the head isn't warped or anything. Since surface is clean. Heeeeeeeeeeeelp?

 

Well, how long did you drive it so hot? I hope you pulled over and let it cool down...if not you may have done some damage. Why don't you start by looking at your cooling system? That should be a no brainer... Also, you said it's rebuilt, does that include sensors as well?

 

If you drove it too long in the hot zone, then you could have other problems now, but after a swap or rebuild you gotta make sure you bleed the cooling system real well to get all the air out. I had the same problem with my H23 swap. Took me close to three hours to finally get all the air out of my system and fix my overheating problem.

 

I actually stopped once it passed the middle and up to the hot range. WAS freaking scared!

Yes, I stopped once it went all the way up to hot. Let the car sit for 30-40 minutes then drove home. Probably like a mile home only.

But thanks fellas for the help. I figured out both of my problems. Thank goodness!

 

Cool man, glad you got it figured out!

 

Oh good

 

Rivht on for getting it fixed

What ended up cauing it to overheat?

 

I really thought it was fixed. My car is still overheating. Resisvor now its being overflow.

Here's what I did before driving today, checked my radiator, looks like there isn't any coolant. Added a little bit, warmed up the car and took it out for a drive so I can break it in a little more. Then surprisingly, the temp climbs up again. I pulled over for a good 10 minute and drive back home. Right around the block, the temp rises again. Luckily I got home. Did a little research and most suggestion said bad head gasket or bad water pump. Since I'm narrowing it down, head gasket is new and I did reuse my old water pump. Which was working fine before I rebuild my bottom end.

Is there any other ways to tell why my coolant is draining to my resisvor to cause it to overflow? Hopefully it isn't the water pump. Way too tight in the Ef to be replacing it. Thanks in advance guys

 

First thought was coolant being burned in the combustion chambers, but then I was like no silly, it's a new block. Or is it?

Other than that, improperly torquing the head bolts could cause leakage past the head gasket. But seeing your join date I'm thinking you did that right. Must be the water pump?

 

Engine block is not new but been rebuild. Fresh hone and hot tank. Sleeves were still good. Torque is correct, I went with the steps found here on HT. Is there a way to check the water pump? I'm thinking it's the water pump. Can it be cause by the water pump sitting too long without being run?

EDIT
compression test again
C1 = 220
C2 C3 C4 = 210

So head gasket should be good right? I'm going to open my radiator tomorrow and see if there are any bubbles. But I doubt it since there wasn't any a few days ago.

 

I really don't know what it would be other than the water pump. I suppose it is possible that a connection at either the gear or blades on the pump rusted while it sat, and so the gear spins without spinning the blades. But I'm no expert, and have never heard of that happening, just a thought.

Is there absolutely no way to get to the pump? On my H swap in my ej8, it is a pretty tight fit, but I was still able to remove my timing cover by "sliding" it down. If you can remove the crank pulley while its in the car, you may be able to take the cover off as well and get to that pump.

 

There is room but the OEM traction bar is a beeeeeeeeeach. Oh well. I'll replace it if someone can confirm it that it is my water pump. I'm 70% thinking it's my water pump failing on me. If someone can confirm this for sure, I will be getting a new water pump tomorrow and work on it on my free times this week. Thanks!!!

 

We need 2LEM1 or someone else knowledgable in B-series in here

 

anyone? I'm about to just risk it and just buy GMB water pump off ebay and replace it.

 

Anybody with this problem that can help is much appreciated. OR anyone with knowledge of what the problem is give me answers. I narrowed it down to water pump only now.

 

Then replace it?

 

Try a NEW OEM HONDA thermostat and see if that is the problem.

When your engine warms up to where it's overheating is the lower radiator hose hot or cold?

If it's COLD change the thermostat.

Also check to see if the fan/fans turn on and be sure there pulling air in the engine bay.

I had a guy with overheating and he wired the fans wrong pushing the air out the engine bay I'm just saying you asked for some Help/input.

 

I just replaced the water pump and head gasket through autozone. Took the car around the block for a few mile and it started over heating again. Resisvor close to overflowing again. I touched all the hoses. All seem to be hot, where you can't hold on to it longer then a few seconds. And the bottom is warm but yet not as hot like the other ones. I can grab a hold on it without letting go. Since its like that, you're saying thermostat? If it is, I'm replacing it today or tomorrow. Btw, my I have my fan put on manual instead of auto. Thanks again for the suggestions!

 

problem solved. bad "NEW" thermostat! 1 simple problem made me do so much work. lol. Thanks everybody! Appreciate the help.