Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
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Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
I have a 91 si with a completely rebuild b18c1 motor and swapped it in last weekend. it started without any hesitation and no check engine light, which was a good thing. After warming up the car for about 15 minutes, I turned off the car and found that there was oil on all the spark plugs and wires. Took it out, cleaned it and let it sit overnight to dry up. I replaced the valve cover seals and spark plug tube seal the next day. Started up the car again to warm it up to see if it was going to end up with the same results. It stopped, but cylinder 1 spark plug/wire was still cover in oil. It's not flooded but enough oil to cover up the tip of the wires.
I searched around the last couple days, and a lot of people said it's the spark plug seal which I already replaced. Others said it might be bad valve seals. Which I hope it's not!!! I'm going to do a compression test and see what's going on.
Anyways, if anyone know what the deal is will be appreciated. Been a long week and I want to drive it around town so I can break it in. THANKS
EDIT
Dry compression test results. 3 different tries on each cylinder.
1 = 220 PSI
2 = 190 PSI
3 = 210 PSI
4 = 200PSI
Wet
1-4 = 300+ psi
I searched around the last couple days, and a lot of people said it's the spark plug seal which I already replaced. Others said it might be bad valve seals. Which I hope it's not!!! I'm going to do a compression test and see what's going on.
Anyways, if anyone know what the deal is will be appreciated. Been a long week and I want to drive it around town so I can break it in. THANKS
EDIT
Dry compression test results. 3 different tries on each cylinder.
1 = 220 PSI
2 = 190 PSI
3 = 210 PSI
4 = 200PSI
Wet
1-4 = 300+ psi
Last edited by _EF9; 10-30-2014 at 04:30 PM.
#2
Your plug seals are bad on the vc. Make sure that you put them in correctly and that you torqued the vc nuts properly. Thats the only way youre gonna get oil on the plug wires. Its not coming from the combustion chamber. The only other way is a cracked vc or head
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
Yeah, I kinda figured. Just wasn't so sure. But I was just worried about my compression test. Is it fine? I will double check my valve cover tomorrow and see what the deal is. Thanks for the response, appreciate it much!
#4
You just rebuilt the engine. If you did a proper hone job and gapped the rings correctly then you wont have any issues.
You havent even broken in the engine so compression numbers are gonna be a bit wonky till then
You havent even broken in the engine so compression numbers are gonna be a bit wonky till then
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
EDIT
Problem solved. The valve cover seal was off a little bit. Didn't know it would matter.
BUT new problem. After fixing that problem, warming up the car til my temp raised up to normal, I took the car on a drive. Try putting some miles onto my block. Less then 2 miles into it, the temp raised up all the way to HOT! Brand new head gasket. Is there other ways around it instead of taking off the head? I'm hoping the head isn't warped or anything. Since surface is clean. Heeeeeeeeeeeelp?
Last edited by _EF9; 10-31-2014 at 02:18 PM.
#6
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
Well, how long did you drive it so hot? I hope you pulled over and let it cool down...if not you may have done some damage. Why don't you start by looking at your cooling system? That should be a no brainer... Also, you said it's rebuilt, does that include sensors as well?
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
If you drove it too long in the hot zone, then you could have other problems now, but after a swap or rebuild you gotta make sure you bleed the cooling system real well to get all the air out. I had the same problem with my H23 swap. Took me close to three hours to finally get all the air out of my system and fix my overheating problem.
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
If you drove it too long in the hot zone, then you could have other problems now, but after a swap or rebuild you gotta make sure you bleed the cooling system real well to get all the air out. I had the same problem with my H23 swap. Took me close to three hours to finally get all the air out of my system and fix my overheating problem.
Well, how long did you drive it so hot? I hope you pulled over and let it cool down...if not you may have done some damage. Why don't you start by looking at your cooling system? That should be a no brainer... Also, you said it's rebuilt, does that include sensors as well?
But thanks fellas for the help. I figured out both of my problems. Thank goodness!
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
I really thought it was fixed. My car is still overheating. Resisvor now its being overflow.
Here's what I did before driving today, checked my radiator, looks like there isn't any coolant. Added a little bit, warmed up the car and took it out for a drive so I can break it in a little more. Then surprisingly, the temp climbs up again. I pulled over for a good 10 minute and drive back home. Right around the block, the temp rises again. Luckily I got home. Did a little research and most suggestion said bad head gasket or bad water pump. Since I'm narrowing it down, head gasket is new and I did reuse my old water pump. Which was working fine before I rebuild my bottom end.
Is there any other ways to tell why my coolant is draining to my resisvor to cause it to overflow? Hopefully it isn't the water pump. Way too tight in the Ef to be replacing it. Thanks in advance guys
Here's what I did before driving today, checked my radiator, looks like there isn't any coolant. Added a little bit, warmed up the car and took it out for a drive so I can break it in a little more. Then surprisingly, the temp climbs up again. I pulled over for a good 10 minute and drive back home. Right around the block, the temp rises again. Luckily I got home. Did a little research and most suggestion said bad head gasket or bad water pump. Since I'm narrowing it down, head gasket is new and I did reuse my old water pump. Which was working fine before I rebuild my bottom end.
Is there any other ways to tell why my coolant is draining to my resisvor to cause it to overflow? Hopefully it isn't the water pump. Way too tight in the Ef to be replacing it. Thanks in advance guys
#13
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
First thought was coolant being burned in the combustion chambers, but then I was like no silly, it's a new block. Or is it?
Other than that, improperly torquing the head bolts could cause leakage past the head gasket. But seeing your join date I'm thinking you did that right. Must be the water pump?
Other than that, improperly torquing the head bolts could cause leakage past the head gasket. But seeing your join date I'm thinking you did that right. Must be the water pump?
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
First thought was coolant being burned in the combustion chambers, but then I was like no silly, it's a new block. Or is it?
Other than that, improperly torquing the head bolts could cause leakage past the head gasket. But seeing your join date I'm thinking you did that right. Must be the water pump?
Other than that, improperly torquing the head bolts could cause leakage past the head gasket. But seeing your join date I'm thinking you did that right. Must be the water pump?
EDIT
compression test again
C1 = 220
C2 C3 C4 = 210
So head gasket should be good right? I'm going to open my radiator tomorrow and see if there are any bubbles. But I doubt it since there wasn't any a few days ago.
Last edited by _EF9; 11-03-2014 at 06:37 PM.
#15
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
I really don't know what it would be other than the water pump. I suppose it is possible that a connection at either the gear or blades on the pump rusted while it sat, and so the gear spins without spinning the blades. But I'm no expert, and have never heard of that happening, just a thought.
Is there absolutely no way to get to the pump? On my H swap in my ej8, it is a pretty tight fit, but I was still able to remove my timing cover by "sliding" it down. If you can remove the crank pulley while its in the car, you may be able to take the cover off as well and get to that pump.
Is there absolutely no way to get to the pump? On my H swap in my ej8, it is a pretty tight fit, but I was still able to remove my timing cover by "sliding" it down. If you can remove the crank pulley while its in the car, you may be able to take the cover off as well and get to that pump.
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
I really don't know what it would be other than the water pump. I suppose it is possible that a connection at either the gear or blades on the pump rusted while it sat, and so the gear spins without spinning the blades. But I'm no expert, and have never heard of that happening, just a thought.
Is there absolutely no way to get to the pump? On my H swap in my ej8, it is a pretty tight fit, but I was still able to remove my timing cover by "sliding" it down. If you can remove the crank pulley while its in the car, you may be able to take the cover off as well and get to that pump.
Is there absolutely no way to get to the pump? On my H swap in my ej8, it is a pretty tight fit, but I was still able to remove my timing cover by "sliding" it down. If you can remove the crank pulley while its in the car, you may be able to take the cover off as well and get to that pump.
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
Anybody with this problem that can help is much appreciated. OR anyone with knowledge of what the problem is give me answers. I narrowed it down to water pump only now.
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
Try a NEW OEM HONDA thermostat and see if that is the problem.
When your engine warms up to where it's overheating is the lower radiator hose hot or cold?
If it's COLD change the thermostat.
Also check to see if the fan/fans turn on and be sure there pulling air in the engine bay.
I had a guy with overheating and he wired the fans wrong pushing the air out the engine bay I'm just saying you asked for some Help/input.
When your engine warms up to where it's overheating is the lower radiator hose hot or cold?
If it's COLD change the thermostat.
Also check to see if the fan/fans turn on and be sure there pulling air in the engine bay.
I had a guy with overheating and he wired the fans wrong pushing the air out the engine bay I'm just saying you asked for some Help/input.
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
Try a NEW OEM HONDA thermostat and see if that is the problem.
When your engine warms up to where it's overheating is the lower radiator hose hot or cold?
If it's COLD change the thermostat.
Also check to see if the fan/fans turn on and be sure there pulling air in the engine bay.
I had a guy with overheating and he wired the fans wrong pushing the air out the engine bay I'm just saying you asked for some Help/input.
When your engine warms up to where it's overheating is the lower radiator hose hot or cold?
If it's COLD change the thermostat.
Also check to see if the fan/fans turn on and be sure there pulling air in the engine bay.
I had a guy with overheating and he wired the fans wrong pushing the air out the engine bay I'm just saying you asked for some Help/input.
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Re: Oil on cylinder 1 spark plug
problem solved. bad "NEW" thermostat! 1 simple problem made me do so much work. lol. Thanks everybody! Appreciate the help.
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