does anyone see a problem or solution with my oil drain line to me it seems to low

 

Whats wrong with it? It does look a bit low, if you hit your oil pan, that fitting has more of a chance to get messed up as well.

 

I have very little experience with turbos in general but I'm hoping that the turbo will drain properly with this configuration, because the manifold sits the turbo so low
Edit: i havnt started the car yet with the turbo on because i really only wanna do this once, but this is the only feasable way for me to clock center housing without buying a new manifold

 

Oil is supposed to fall out of the drain line into the pan. The way you have that set up, it's going to be pooling in the line. Should have welded it higher, but with how low your turbo sits, you couldn't have really welded it any higher and still had a down-sloping line. You're kind of stuck in a catch-22 - either the return is too low in the pan, but the line has an OK slope, or the return is in a good spot, but the line doesn't have a good enough slope.

 

Ya thats what ive been reading kinda not sure the best plan of action at this point a new manifold is out of the budget as i cant aforrd a couple other necessities, but surely the guy who hadthe manifold before me made it work some how.. Any one see a solution with keeping the manifold?

 

Use a 45* hose end off the turbo and plumb it to that upper bung on the pan.

 

When i tried that the center housing had to be clocked almost horizontally with almost no slope i could try again tho

 

Base-Model Pump

use the top fittings on the oil pan with this.

 

Even if you could clock the turbo to allow for higher bung placement, it would still end up sitting flat, which is bad juju. I like 98vtec's idea - pump it.

 

Thats not cheap by any means but it might be what i do, is there a pump thats a little cheaper? Would there be a need for a restrictor in the feed line with this? Should i go ahead and get an oil cooler? This seems like the cheapest solution to keep everything i already have...

 

Thanks for the input guys i really appreciate it, i almost said f it ill see what happens, but id rather save for a pump..

 

Just to be clear since you would have hopefully done research on how to mount the pump but just in case:

The pump needs to be mounted in a remote location. In my civic, I have mine mounted under the driver side headlight

 

I will definitely research how others have mounted theres i do enjoy making things nice and tidy
Thanks again guys ill have to wait a little longer but it will be worth waiting for

 

What I have done is made a catch can right below the turbo and a drain on the bottom if you make it about the diameter of beer can it should be good. If you need more, which you shouldn't, can just hook a pump up. I have been this can set for while now, best solution I could come up with. I really don't like the idea of having a pump that can fail. If you want some picture shot me a pm.

 

Here is the only other thing i can think of but the slop isnt what i would think to be ok after reading about the oumps it seems like that would be a last resort, id definatly like some pics of your catch can setup

 

That short of a distance would require a hard line. Or barbed fittings with flexible hose.

Also, that feed line needs to be rerouted. Running it over the top of the valve cover is not a good idea.

 

That should work. IIRC Garret says no more than 35deg from vertical. You look close to that, but ok.

 

Yeah, that higher option definitely looks better.

 

You need to be using the fitting highee up on the pan.

With the return fitting that low very little oil will actually drain from the CHRA. Under braking you'd basically be forcing oil up the return line into the CHRA.

With a miniram you need to make a full loop with the drain line. I know because I have one.

The fitting off of the CHRA needs to be pointing towards the motor with a loop of line going towards the front of the car then to the pan.

 

Then use a 90. As long as your bung is above the oil level in the pan, a 2" horizontal run isn't going to hurt anything.

 

I retract what I said earlier about the angle of the turbo. I read this wrong. Its actually 15 degrees and no more. You might be past that.

Oil Leakage | Turbobygarrett





If you arent stuck on AN fittings, you can do this with some braided hose and worm clamps.

 

Well i took the pan this morning to have the bung welded above the oil level its definetly past 25 degrees probably close to 35 degrees i think it will be my best solution ill have picks tomorrow of the new line using a 45 push lock fitting to a straight push lock the line will still be very horizontal so hopefully it will still drain properly

Edit: with the pan at the shop and my very crude ways of measuring with a level taped to a degree wheel i think im very close to 25 degrees...any thoughts on this?

Edit: using a protractor app on my phone i get roughly 25 degrees...so as long as my 3 in horizontal tube to the pan is ok i can quit worrying... Im sure theres a slight angle but still very very horizontal

 

I was just reading on garrets site and its a little confusing they first said the outlet should be no more 35 degrees from level then they say fifteen degrees ill try to post link http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...il_water_lines

 

I have noticed journal bearing turbos are less picky about the drain as to compared my ball bearing garrett. Also seem like a lot of poeple live with some oil leaking on their compressors and there are a lot of stocks cars that leak too, ie BMW's. Part of the problem with hondas the oil level is very high if you take fitting off on the oil pan oil will run out. Ideal is to have it all air any amount of oil in the line will cause a back up. On my stock gsr oil pan I ended up welding a stainless 3/4 tube to the flange and still oil will come out. I was going to run a pump, like I said before after a lot of thought I don't like having something that could burn out and made this tank. I have been running it for quite some time now and no oil what so ever leaks out of my compressor.

 

The 35* refers to the angle of the turbo installed on the manifold. 15* refers to how far off verticle the CHRA drain can be. You're too far and with the return line plumbed below the level of the oil you'll end up blowing seals left and right.